POR 15

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: POR 15
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chuck Lebeda on Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 11:13 am:

I am using POR 15 rust preventative to coat my T frame. I have the POR-Prep to prepare the surface first. QUESTION: Do you rinse off the POR 15 Prep with water after it sets for 20 minutes?? The instructions are a little vague? Thanks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chuck Lebeda on Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 01:47 pm:

Their WEB site says YES; as there is a buildup of Zinc and they recommend to wash it off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charles Linsenbarth on Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 02:08 pm:

Yes and make sure to dry all the cracks out really well and make sure you really put enough Por-15 in seams and cracks to cover unseen area.
Charley
PS--We use their 3 step product, but the two step will work just as good. By the way great product.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chuck Lebeda on Saturday, June 14, 2014 - 02:16 pm:

Thanks. I just finished the second coat of paint on the engine. It is a 1919 C-door. Used Purple Power and I steamed cleaned the engine and frame 3 times; but did lots of scraping with putty knife and chisel. Also put the POR 15 prep on this AM and rinsed it off. I hated to put water on it, as it takes a while to dry. I have the engine out of the car, but did not remove the body from the frame.

Thanks again, Chuck


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown on Monday, June 16, 2014 - 12:09 pm:

Chuck, Use air pressure and some lint free rags to dry the frame faster, then sit it in the sun for a little while, I always use air pressure to blow the por-15 into cracks, seams, under brackets ect. Then I take a rag with laquer thinner to clean it off the surface as I apply the por-15 to the cracks. I do this to ensure the por-15 is under all the places you may miss while painting. It is messy, so use drop cloths, gloves, ect, do it outside if possible, and cover every inch of yourself as it does not come off easily, You just have to let it "wear" off. Its good stuff ...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Monday, June 16, 2014 - 12:41 pm:

Whenever I rinse things off of bare steel with water, I use a Milwaukee heat gun to quick dry the item. My heat gun has 2 settings. 700 degrees and 1200 degrees. I use the high setting and it dries the item before rust has a chance to form. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chuck Lebeda on Monday, June 16, 2014 - 10:09 pm:

I POR’s the frame. Scraped and steam cleaned the frame 3 times. I let it air dry for a day. Then had to lay on my back and brush on the POR-15. Looks pretty good and hope it stays? I also undercoated the fenders and running boards that are subjected to road dirt/water. I wore latex gloves but should have worn heavier ‘dish washing’ gloves! My finger nails are black and looks like it has to wear off. Gas and finger nail polish remover has no impact. Looks like I went Gothic. Thanks for the info . I have the engine/trany painted and the frame. So now ready to put the engine back in. I replaced the firewall and have to do a complete rewire job. Want to get it running by July 25 for a sesquintennial.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John P Noonan on Monday, June 16, 2014 - 10:22 pm:

Chuck, you lucked out. I didn't read the fine print and did my truck frame in just a t-shirt and shorts, and got covered in the process. It really will not come off with anything that you would think would take off paint, it just has to wear off your skin. Needless to say my wife was not amused considering we had a wedding the next weekend :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown on Tuesday, June 17, 2014 - 02:27 pm:

Chuck: Remember that there is no UV protection in Por 15, You are supposed to top coat it with regular paint. The sun will cause it to "chalk" It will turn a whitish grey color eventually. If you top coat it after it dries, you "must" scuff it very well


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa - Poulsbo, Washington on Tuesday, June 17, 2014 - 03:34 pm:

John,

POR-15 makes a solvent that cleans things (hands) up very well. I POR-15'd my undercarriage and top bows. I also used in on my firewall and floorboards. It sticks like crazy (especially on wood) and wears like iron. The truth is that we garage our T's 99% of the time so I am not too worried about UV.

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Patrick Martin on Tuesday, June 17, 2014 - 09:01 pm:

Good idea to do your wood top bows, wood superstructure, spokes, and anything else wood with POR-15. You can thin it a little and apply it like a stain so it really sinks in. Afterwards, when it dries tacky, shoot a primer or a thin layer of your topcoat over it to dry. You can then topcoat it and it becomes integral with your paint.

Super stuff and makes your T rot resistant :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chuck Lebeda on Friday, June 20, 2014 - 07:27 am:

Well, the POR-15 is beginning to wear off my body; all except the fingernails. My barber cut most of it out of my hair. I didn’t buy the POR-15 solvent; figured gas would cut it? WRONG! I used a quart for the undercarriage. Ready to put the engine back in. Now the engine/undercarriage look way better than the body; so may have to repair/repaint the body. Where does it end? I have a ’22 coupe yet to work on!! Have to go fishing for a week yet.


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