What do you soak your felt in before you attach the gas line to the carb?
I have soaked it with oil and seems to work just fine. Just wondering what others do.
Dry or dish soap have worked for me.
I worked "Plug Valve Grease" into the felt before installing on line. That's the same stuff that is also called "Gas Tite Grease" and is designed to lubricate fuel valves. The felt seal has been in service for 15 years now with nary a hint of a leak.
I also lubricated the (original) valve with the same grease. It's getting a little hard to turn now. Guess lubing it once every 15 years isn't too much to ask.
Gas Tite works great.
Nothing. I install it dry and snug it down tight. The crush keeps it from leaking.
Dave, your suggestion will only work if there is a brass acorn on the fuel line and the elbow in the carburetor is machined to suit. Standard T elbows are drilled to accept the pipe, and the seal is achieved with some kind of packing.
I use a 1/4" length of rubber fuel hose, after removing the outer layer, as a seal between the pack nut and the fuel line.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I've had a number of NOS packing nuts for the carburetor over the years, and the felt is already in them. I've never put anything on the felt either.
Allen, by crush, I refer to the compression of the felt itself and nothing else. At first glance, the original felt does not look like it will ever fit in the space provided by the carb fitting and nut, but it will.
The other advantage I have found using felt is it allows for any twisting movement or vibration placed on the gas line without causing fatigue to the gas line. The same cannot be said for the rigid fit a brass compression or flare fitting would create.
I couldn't get mine to seal, so I tapered the fitting with a drill bit and installed a brass farel and have not had another problem. After reading this, I might be a new bit of tubing and felts and try again.
Royce, where do you buy gas tite now?
Dry felt has always worked fine for me.
I use string wrapped around the line. At one time I used bees waxed string but found dry string (or dental floss) works fine. I also used this method to seal a hydraulic leak at the brake cylinder on a car when on the "Great Race".
Always used dry felt. The key is to snug fittings tight
I use dry felt.
Always used them dry.
I too always use dry felt on all the T's over the years and never had a drip...
But will say that I did have difficulty with one recently. It was unique in that the previous owner had replaced the sediment bowl on an under the seat tank...but at the time the right bowl was 50% more than the 26/27 type...so...he added a street el to the bottom of the tank, the 26/27 sediment bulb, and packed the dickens out of it with waxed cord. I had to change the fuel line as it had nut and ferrule on the end that had cinched hard, too hard in my opinion. I used a long felt at the sediment bulb packing box end and using one felt it would constantly dribble. (Now I do 'stuff' the fittings compressed before I slide in the tube) On this one I just couldn't make the dribble go away. I 'think' the answer would have been adding another felt or at least 1/2a felt. As it was, I was out of felt, but, did have a set of neoprene that have been around forever.
Left the felt in the sediment bowl packing box, cut the neoprene in half and slid it on the tube...put back together, clamp it down tight...dry as a bone since