The search function seems to have quit working for me and I cannot recall what folks are using today in lieu of the 600W the Henry was sticking in the rear ends.
I ran out of 600 and want to top off what everyone else is using and in the future use the "new stuff" exclusively.
It has been claimed that 600W is too heavy for a Ruckstell. I tend to use 140 in my Ruckstells. In Colorado you can still buy 600W.
I bought a bottle of 600W from Bob's a week ago.
The "modern" 80-140 lube works great. Some things are better now than they were 100 years ago.
Dave, great picture!
Here it is converted to black & white, it looks like an Ansel Adams photograph:
I have both 600 (250 wt.) and Lubriplate 140 in stock, John.
Thanks. I'll go get some!
I've always liked black and white photography myself.
600W is actually steam cylinder oil and was very plentiful in the heyday of the Model T. If you know a steam engine guy, give him a call and find out where he get his oil to run his steamer.
I made contact with a oil distributor and he suggested either 140w or 480w as a suitable replacement. He gave me a great deal on an opened 5 gal bucket of 480w and seems to work just fine.
140 is fine for a stock T rear end but too heavy for a Ruckstel.
The Ruckstels need 90 to lube the center section.
Or 80-90. or 85-120.
Cold 140 won't do the job.
After listening to many many folks talk on the subject, I have noted that "most" use the 85-140 or SAE 140W.
If you look up what comes "close" to 600W it is about SAE 250... and the closest thing I could find to that was an industrial geared motor oil called Alpha SP220. We actually had some in our stores for conveyor gearboxes...
But in the end, I am fitting a modern inner oil seal, and going with 85-140 gear oil.
Hope this helps,
I am running 80W-140 Amsoil in the Ruckstell, and 250WT Amsoil Severe Gear in the regular rear axle. Neither is a "leaker", so it makes sense for me to use that stuff. If it was a "leaker", I'd probably be running conventional stuff and save the money.
The biggest problem with modern gear oils is the sulfer content which will attack brass parts over time.
Also modern oils with their high pressure additives don't have to be as thick as back in the day.
I use Cheveron Delo Gear ESI. It has no sulfer content and comes in SAE 80W-90 or SAE 85W-140.
Snyders - www.snydersantiqurauto.com
Macs - www.macsautoparts.com
All of these suppliers carry 600w gear oil at around $8 a quart.
Thanks folks. My regular supplier has the stuff so I'll get it from him.
The old 600 oil is now the modern day equivalent of 90-140w . Standardization changed in the 20's from the Saybolt ISO to the newer SAE standards. This has been covered here a few time in the past.
Actually the modern oils are much better than they ever were.
I use 85-140 Valvoline synthetic. You can get it at Auto Zone, Pep Boys or Car Quest. Back in 1920 everyone would have done the same if they had this kind of modern chemistry back then.
Same is true for paints or anything else involving chemistry. We have learned a few things in the last 100 years.
If you worry about the modern gear oils eating the bronze in your T rear end just make sure you use GL4.
GL5 is said to attack yellow metals.
GL5 will discolor the yellow metal parts but I doubt it will do any more harm in the first 150 years.
david d, there is a steam powered excursion boat near me, and the oil for the main bearings gravity feeds through and into a pan about the size of an ice cube tray. that oil has only gone around the crank a few times, and they throw it away. i get 5 gallon pails of it for free. its very sticky, works great for chain saw bar oil, never thought of using it for 600 wt, but thats about what it is.