I'm replacing the lost pinion gear on my speedo drive. I have the gear perfectly fitted on the shaft. I'm wondering how it is pinned in place. I know this sounds too simple but, a cotter pin doesn't seem to fit right. If it is a cotter pin, is it bent a certain way? Do I just use a single strand of wire instead? I want to do it right so I don't lose another one. Thanks.
Bow it slightly,so it will go into the hole,but only bend the top side over. No guarantee on loosing it again.
Aw yes, one side straight and one side bent over. Clearly that would be best. Thanks Jack.
Hey Dave, your cotter pin looks just like the variety pack i just bought, and am now questioning using them on anything that has to hold when needed. The ones i bought are very easily bent by hand and nothing in strength compared to the ones that i removed from the car. Mine seem more aluminum than steel, and i just don't trust them on anything other than linkages and such. Does anyone make real cotter pins anymore because the ones i bought are crap.
I forgot to say use the biggest cotter that will fit the hole. Dohrman makes good ones,still available at most NAPA dealers.
I forgot to say use the biggest cotter that will fit the hole. Dohrman makes good ones,still available at most NAPA dealers.
Sorry for the rant there Dave,..just don't want you to lose another gear over something as stupid as poorly made pins
I got the speedo gear installed, not as nicely as I wanted to but, solid enough. John, I'm glad you mentioned cotter pin quality. I took a magnet and checked the cotter pins from my Mac's variety pack. All were steel. No surprise there as they seem very strong. I did find one non magnetic pin. I suspect it was from a handful I bought at the local parts store and is made of aluminum. I may have used those on my hubs which doesn't sit well with me. I recall bending them without tools. I'll check them. Seems like an important issue. From now on, I will bring a small magnet when I shop for cotter pins.
Pinning down some thoughts, although no doubt preaching to the choir:
1. I always use stainless cotter pins. Very strong but still quite bendable. They aren't magnetic. They don't rust even when the paint comes off.
2. The 7/64" stainless size will work in place of Ford's 3/32" with no modifications, and they hold much better.
3. Only bend one leg, and that slightly, in non-critical places of frequent removal.
4. Bend them back on themselves in areas that you check and/or clean frequently, such as the front axle. Saves tearing your skin, especially when in a hurry, like a roadside repair.
5. Never, ever re-use cotters in critical areas like wheels, steering, or the front end. I don't care how good they look after you get them out.
6. Never use a smaller diameter pin to make an easier fit. The nut will loosen. Count on it. In a non-critical spot, remove the nut and file a tad off the back side so it can advance a wee bit more. In a critical spot, like a wheel bearing, find out why the nut won't go on enough and fix it.
7. Never back off a nut, even a smidgen, to get the pin in. See #6 above.
8. 7/64" x 3/4, 1/8" x 1, and 1/16" x 1/2 will cover 99% of the car's needs. Keep a good stock on hand in the car. Small plastic prescription pill bottles, one for each size/length, are good to keep them handy rather than digging around in the bottom of a toolbox.
9. Tools that will cover all cotter pin situations are a Craftsman or other cotter pin puller/spreader, a good pair of dikes, a long- or needle-nose pliers, and a small tack hammer.