All this started a few days ago, here is the previous thread:
Installation of the Winfield carb was straightforward, with a couple exceptions. The carburetor gasket is 1 1/4" bore, so a standard T gasket won't work. A Kleenex box gave its life to the effort.
The throttle rod was made from 3/16" 4130 steel rod stock found at Home Depot. I made a template from coat hangar wire, then bent the rod to match. A 3/32" hole in each end yielded a place for cotter pins.
The carburetor interferes with the underside of the hood shelf. I had to make a clearance cut 1/4" deep, contoured to match the profile of the carburetor, on the underside of the wood shelf. It doesn't show when installed.
The choke rod had to be shortened about 4".
In order to avoid making a longer fuel line I found a 5" long 1/8" NPT tube at Home Depot which adapts the shutoff valve to the Winfield fuel inlet nicely.
The Winfield instructions are not very clear. To aid the next guy, I found that the high speed adjustment works well at 3 turns from closed (yellow arrow). The midrange adjustment is currently at 4 turns from closed (red Arrow).
See the picture:
Performance is fairly amazing. I've tried perhaps 15 other Model T accessory carbs and factory carbs. This one is beyond any doubt far superior to any other. Idle is smooth, with a curious hissing noise unlike any other carburetor. The Winfield design uses a barrel valve instead of a butterfly for the throttle, so there is no obstruction when the throttle is wide open. The choke uses a standard butterfly, but is considerably larger than the throttle so that it presents no restriction.
Another interesting side effect of the Winfield carb is the engine operating temperature - very cool, unusually so. The moto meter didn't rise more than 1/4" from cold yesterday, on a 92 degree afternoon, with lots of high speed and hilly terrain driving.
It feels like you could easily over - rev the engine in low gear, there is no end to acceleration and I had to back off to avoid bearing or piston failure. Same story in high gear, it will apparently accelerate until I blow out of the seat.
Torque pulling up a hill is amazing. I would love to see how this runs on a chassis dyno. Highly recommended, I cannot express in words how impressive this thing is.
I ran out of T's to put carbs on so I sold my Type"M" Winfield without ever running it. They sure are well made, pretty aftermarket carbs, and very era appropriate for later Ts .......the "M's " come in various sizes, so you have to check on that before buying one. Could you fit the air bell on it n your application?
Excellent report, Royce.
When I had carb to frame clearance problem, I planed the manifold port faces at a slight angle.
Like I said in my other post, these Winfields are the best carburetors for a Model T. Glad it is working out for you. You'll get many miles and smiles out of it.
They really are great carbs. The early Aluminum ones are far better than the pot metal ones because the pot metal ones tend to crack and warp. They are not all that readily available but their performance is amazing. Clean gas, clean gas, clean gas because of the weenie little jets, a little finicky but over all just a great carb.
I assume by Air Bell you mean the choke assembly (green arrow)? It fits fine.
sorry if this is a dumb question, but how would the carb impact engine temp?
I don't have a picture to show, but they often have about a 4" bell that mounts to that elbow. Think it has something to do with making the air swirl. Stan would know what it is for.
I've not seen a pot metal Winfield, but I would sure be careful of that , too.
Looking at Stan's website shows a picture of the air bell. Looks to me like it is just a different type of choke elbow.
No idea. I am just reporting what happened.
I've always heard them (air bell) referred to as "roar bowls".
I have read the air bell is to quiet the hissing and moaning of the drum throttle. It was fitted to the M series carbs like this one:
I have a M that I ran on my Model A back in the 50's and it ran well. I did not have a choke for it and do not remember now how that was overcame.
If it's not anchored to the manifold, the weight of the bowl will break the mating flange off the potmetal carb.
The breakage on the flanges is almost always caused by the small clamping screws on the flange being overtightened. The small screws are supposed to have a small spacer washer (often missing) that limits the travel of the screw when the air bell or elbow is secured. Without the spacer, the screws put enormous leverage on the flange, often cracking or breaking it clean off.