I've stripped my diff out completely and I'm re-doing it properly.
One of my wheels has 2 shims on the axle to take up play. This wheel has always had a bit of a wobble. I'm concerned its worn out, but I don't know what the measurements should be. Can anyone guide me here?
The axles look original too... So trying to make a hub that fits that axle end could be a step in the wrong direction too.
Thanks, I appreciate the help,
Justin, I find it easier to work out if a wheel is usable when fitted to the car. The inside edge of the brake drum needs to be just slightly over the backing plate edge. If the hub/axle are worn, the wheel will go on further and this may result in the hub nuts fouling on the brake linings. This is the situation which calls for a shim to space the hub out further on the axle. Two shims should never be used. One thicker one is better.
Having said this, a better hub would be an even better answer.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
The nuts do show signs of contact. Ill take a few pics and post tonight.
Who are the guys who make new hubs? or good used hubs?
Do you know where I could find dimensions of these hubs, so I can check how bad mine are, and spec the correct thickness shim to get me back on the road sooner?
Thanks for the help!
Here's a pic I copied ofn the forum a while ago:
I often find that it is the axle shaft causing the problem and replacing them with the new ones that are a bit longer enables you to use the old hub without any shims. I am now at the point in my life where I want to spend more time driving than working on my cars so when I do anything I try to do it so it will never have to be done again in my lifetime and that means using NOS or new replacement parts like new axles. If the taper on the hub is good you can confirm that by finding a good axle and coating the axle shaft taper with Prussian Blue or some other dye (even black magic marker will do). Then put the hub on the shaft without the woodruff key as far as it will go by hand and turn it while you keep pressure on it. When you take the hub off you will be able to see how worn things are. Ideally you want full contact on the shaft taper.
Ken's picture and the MTFCA axle book will show you whether you need replacement hubs and/or axle shafts. See Lang's for prices of new axle shafts and new or used hubs. I think the prices of all the dealers will be pretty close.
We have rear axles on sale here and I have a pair of n.o.s. hubs, Bob
Yeah the shafts really aren't that bad, only $85 or something like that. Definitely worth replacing if you already have the rear end apart.
If the axle tapers are worn, then the hubs are worn out too. I'm guessing that, if 2 shims are needed, everything else is worn to the point where the axle keyways must be worn out as well?
Your very best solution is new/good original axles and new/good original hubs.
Thanks for all the advice! Ken thanks for that picture, that is what I needed.
I'll get the axles and hubs measured for fit today and see how far out I am... I fear you guys are all correct about needing replacement. Just about everything I have touched on this car has been in need of replacement! Budget is blown, haha. And sitting in South Africa means everything has to be shipped, taxed, lost, taxed some more, hahaha.
Anyway, here are the pictures. The keyways are loose or the key steel is worn. Will find out today. Last picture probably doesn't belong on this thread, but its the steel spacer washer I found on the left side of the diff. Pins had sheared off and the washer dropped. There was a fair amount of movement on the axle ends that prompted the dis assembly. The pinion gear is toast. chipped to pieces.. but I'll have to upload a picture later.
Oh the joys this rebuild has brought! At this point all I do now is laugh about it....and in the case of that washer, thank my lucky stars I found it before a big oopsie..
Thanks to everyone for their advice,
Get new hub bolts and nuts from R.V. Anderson. He has high strength carriage bolts. The original bolts were very soft as were the ones I got from the vendors.
I suggest you contact Bob Bergstadt for your hubs and shafts. Its unlikely you will find NOS hubs anywhere else.
I agree with you. Wish I had known about Bob before some of my purchases. Just checked his site out.
Bringing in small light stuff seems to work ok, but bigger bulkier stuff is a nightmare.
An axle might be better off being made here... a hub maybe not.
$25 used hub is easy $100 by the time all the pawns in the puzzle get paid. $150 for new is $225... definitely cheaper to make new here.
Finding it here...Iffy at best..
Can anyone here calculate the angle of the axle taper, given the dimensions in that drawing?
Older post with taper info on rear axle