Engine is free floating on my hoist. I can't pull it out at any angle. Something to do with the u joint seems to be holding it. Have I missed something or do I just have to keep pulling for it to break loose?
Did you remove the wishbone from the bottom of the pan? It's a common thing to forget and don't ask me how I know.
Be sure the wishbone is free under the crankcase and all other attachments points are clear.
Then use a narrow pry bar to separate the univ joint sq shaft which is likely stuck due to angle of the engine now. Take care as it can pop apart and the engine will come free quickly.
The sq shaft is sticking in the fourth main. Needs a bit of force to unlock.
Thanks. Wishbone needs to be removed!
Been there and done that! Just did it 2 weeks ago! How did you guess. My 66 year old brain forgot about it!
Move the cross shaft that will stop it form moving out, Bob
Don't feel bad, most of us have forgot about the wishbone....
Also if it's like a TT, there is a little pin that has to be pounded out. The ends of witch are pinned over to lock it in place. That really tricked me, never having done one before. I could not figure why it would not come out. Just got done making a new pin to put mine back together. Don't know if it is the same on the cars, but think it is.
"there is a little pin that has to be pounded out"
Tom, can you elaborate on this? Where exactly is this pin?
I am not Tom L, However, I suspect that Tom is referring to the pin that holds the U-joint onto the drive-shaft. The U-joint SHOULD slide out of the T transmission easily. But sometimes? I have seen cars (trucks are the same) that have been sitting for a while (long while?) where a little water got inside the U-joint area causing a "rust-weld" locking the U-joint into the transmission output shaft. I have also seen (a couple of times) cars that have been run recently, and were well maintained, where grease worked into the transmission output shaft creating a seal resulting in an "air-lock". That silly air-lock can require a come-along (or some other puller or pry-bar) to pull apart the engine from the rear end and U-joint.
In theory, the U-joint square end being right about one inch square, should not require more than local air pressure (about fifteen psi at sea level) to pull it apart, or about fifteen pounds of pull (sounds easy). (15 psi X 1 Sq inch = 15 pounds pull/push pressure) There are additional sticky and/or drag factors that could require a bit more pull. And rust-welds can require a LOT more pull.
One time, I had one that I could pull it about an inch, shift my grip, and it would suck right back in again. Drove me nuts, checking for forgotten wires or anything else I could think of that could pull it back. Finally convinced it was nothing more than an air-lock, I used a come-along. It sounded like a balloon popping when it came apart.
It could be the best way to get to the problem is to pull the pin between the U-joint and drive-shaft and let it come apart where it wants to. Although, having been through it once, it still may not be easy to get that silly U-joint out of the transmission. (About an hour with two tire irons, after soaking in oil)
Just my thoughts from reading above.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
You can add me to the wishbone "sin list" and that was on my second engine pulling!!! Duuuuhhhh.
Wayne described it as good as I could have. It sure through me for a loop, having never done it before. On the drive shaft tube, theres 2 little screw caps. You unscrew them and they line up with the pin, when the shaft is turned into the spot so you can see it. The pin is pinned over, locking the u joint on.
I just had a thought, if it was the pin I am thinking of. It would stop you from pulling the u joint off the drive shaft. But not stop you from pulling the motor - don't think that's the problem, good luck.