How tight do you torque the Bendix spring mounting bolts? I have never seen any information on the subject. In the past I have snugged them down and then bent the tab.
I'm presently replacing a broken spring so I thought I would ask what others are doing.
Tighten just enough & stop just before it strips !
No real torque spec. but one could follow standard table using inch or foot pounds per bolt diameter.
Is my thinking that allowing the spring to flex some at its mounting points might increase its life vs being locked down.
Tight, but that's all.
Just be sure to use the special Bendix lock washers under those bolts! Place the pre-bent tab in the Bendix spring bend, and then fold the flat tab up to the bolt face to keep the bolts in place. Ah...6v will keep the spring happy, 12v won't
I agree with Steve's comments above, use common sense!
I disagree with some of the incomplete advice being provided.
The Model T Ford Bendix drive is commonly abused, sometimes disastrously, by using the wrong parts.
The Bendix spring bolts should be tight using the CORRECT parts! You should NOT use a Model A Bendix spring as it is the wrong size for the Model T Bendix drive shaft. The Model T Bendix drive must use the correct spring, bolts and keepers. If you do not you risk the Bendix drive cover being forced off the hogshead with disastrous consequences.
Here is a photo of the correct Bendix drive bolts.
Beware the reproduction Bendix drive bolts and keepers.
Many folks do not know there were literally thousands of Bendix drive parts combinations and you MUST use the correct parts for your specific application.
Ron the Coilman
I believe the real early Model A's used the same bolts as the T's. I remember when I worked at Ford Obsolete back in the '70s, we had a whole drawer full of Ford script bolts. I should have gotten all of them! For the purist, that is the only way to go. The long ones were copper plated, and I believe the short ones were zinc plated.
Probably as good a place as any to ask...
What is the best way to bend the new keeper tab?
I get it done, but it's really a nasty way on manhandle. (bend it ever so slightly before putting it in...then get a chisel on it after in and give it a whack or 2...then take a super size pair of Channel-locks and a combat grip on the handles while doing an upside down push up from below. (Well, not really, but pretty darned close!) .
What tricks are there? If there is a common sense way,,,I think I missed it.
I haven't put the cover on yet so tight it will be. The parts are correct. Yes Dan, I do abuse it with 12 volts. The flywheel is without magnets which should reduce the shock load a little. Any way for me the positives out weigh the negatives.
Ron the Coilman
I had a T "restorer" use a A Bendix spring on my 26 coupe telling me it was a T Bendix spring. After that I could not keep the Bendix can tight, creating serious oil leaks. Never suspecting what was the cause I removed the can and could see where the spring was rubbing the inside wall of the can. So I removed the Bendix, replaced the spring...problem resolved. A's are for A's, T's are for T's.