I'd like to hear from any of you who use a small 12V battery in a semi-permanent installation for ignition backup in your brass Ts. What style/color wire and terminals do you use? How have you chosen to route it? Etc. Thanks!
I keep the battery in my tool box on the running board and run the wire through a hole in the bottom to the running board bracket and then along the bracket to the frame and up to the battery terminal on the dash under the hood. I used black wire to the frame because it does not show against the black running gear and switch it over to some period cloth wire that I have a spool of. If I recall, it is yellow with a red tracer. The splice is hidden behind the crankcase arm. You have to crawl under the car to see the wire and even then you really have to look carefully for it. I use good alligator style clips at the battery terminals so I can disconnect easily to remove the battery for servicing and keep the clip for the positive terminal off when the car is not running.
R.V. I have a motorcycle battery to provide power for both my 1912 van and 1915 speedster, both of which run Truefire units. In the van the battery is in a separate wooden box divided from the fuel tank under the seat. In the speedster it is under the front floorboards. I used some heavier than usual cloth covered cable for the earth leads and 4mm cloth covered cable to the coilbox terminal.
To enable easy charging and switching batteries around, both have plug in connectors. There is a short length of cable attached to each terminal on the battery permanently, and these plug into wires connected to the earth and the coilbox.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I installed a T battery box installation the way it would be on later T's. It's out of sight and simplifies the wiring. I used 12v battery cables that are easily found at O'Riley and the like. No need to go go for 6v battery cables, the 12v's do just fine. If you are replacing the switch functions, leaving the originals for displays only, you might consider the front seat riser at a spot where the right hand can reach down to perform. My thought only.....
I mounted mine under the passenger side of the back seat in my 15 touring and ran black, cloth covered wire (from T vendors)along the top of the frame rail to the headlight switch. Another piece from that same terminal to the BAT terminal of the coil box. The ends were something that looked like it belonged (once the plastic was cut off). With 12V bulbs in the headlights, all is well.
Walmart Lawn Mower Battery under rear seat (left side). Fuse inline at battery terminal.
Wire goes through bottom of compartment and along inside of left rail then up into engine compartment under left hood former.
Then goes to homemade 5 screw repo wood terminal strip where connections for horn, etc are made. Small stub connection comes off terminal strip for connecting float charger (avoids lifting back seat to connect charger). Recharge overnight 1st of month unless i use the lights for a night run, then I connect float charger that night.
Car is 15 touring.
In my 14 roadster I use a 12v lantern battery, black negative, red positive. I use a fuse and run it to the battery post of the coil box. No electric lights, it's a 14. I should use correct wire but haven't got to it.
RV. You've probably seen the ones I have. I used old style black wire. Touring is under rear seat, right side, and roadster is in tool box on right side. I use a very small Optima type 12v battery that I buy from a local electronics store. The cost about $35, and last forever, and are rechargeable. I recently saw a guy with an '11, and he had his battery on the left side splash shield, right up against the firewall. (saves wire).
I use a sealed, six volt kiddie car battery (like what is used on Fisher Price Power Wheels) under the front seat, passenger side next to the gas tank. It has a quick connect (like what is used on trailers) and and an inline fuse. It is charged with a small transformer. See example below.
I ground it to one of the parking brake yoke nuts.
My roadster has a regular six volt battery in the trunk. I use the same black cloth covered wire as on the magneto and lights because I had plenty of it. It's not as if there are a lot of circuits to keep track of. The wire runs along the inside of the frame rail and up behind the engine. It's not original, but I think I'll install black rubber insulation at the terminals like I did on the touring.
Under the rear seat and i had to drill a hole in the under the seat floor pan.I used a short pice of rubber hose for a grommet.I used peroid looking [modern wire] and used wooden cloths pins to fasten to the frame.Bud.
My '17 has a piece of cream colored cloth coveredinsulation stranded wire that originally went to the turtle deck area and had a small brass alligator clip on that end. The end under the hood connecting to the battery post has a forked brass terminal.
My magneto is rebuilt by RV, so no battery backup needed.
I have a hot Wally mag but no battry no free starts!Bud.
My P/U starts easily on MAG so I use a 12 volt sealed lawn mower battery hidden under the seat in my 1915 P/U. I run a wire to the batt side of the coil box but it is there mainly to power all the lights as I have used 12 volt bulbs which I wanted for the brake lights.
Thanks, all! There is a lot of great information here. I will print out the entire thread and keep it as a reference.