Lowering steering wheel

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Lowering steering wheel
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Olsen on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 09:48 am:

I'm trying to figure out how to lower the steering for the speedster. I have seen the blocks that fit on the firewall, but what about the bracket on the frame? Also, how much can I lower the wheel?
I don't mind sitting tall and proud on the speedster, but lower is a tad more comfortable.

Oh, another thing, On a standard T (1923ish)how high off the ground is the seat? This thing feels like I'll get a nosebleed if I go any higher.
cheers,
chriso


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:03 am:

Hey Chris, I'll take pictures when I get home, but my steering wheel is pretty significantly lowered. On the bracket against the frame rail my grandfather just used a longer bolt and stack of washers on the rear mounting point. That way it was tilted down but still nice and firm I'm not sure if the lower part of the bracket normally sits inside the rail or outside on the bottom because mine has always been outside on the bottom.

Main thing you need to watch out for is how close your Pitman arm and drag link get to the other bar that links the wheels. I'd move it down to where you think it should and then make sure you turn the wheels all the way back and forth and there's no contact or rubbing. If you start at the rail bracket and then work your way back to the steering wheel you should be good.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Milton,WA on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:20 am:

Try this.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1719


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:22 am:

The low pedal may have to be bent outwards to clear a lowered steering column.

There are wedge blocks for the frame bracket to be found at the vendors too: http://www.modeltford.com/item/SW1.aspx
But you can make up something yourself almost as easy, I think.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:32 am:

Roger makes a good point, my clutch pedal is bent out to the left and then back upright. I'm dealing with it right now, but when I throw my handbrake lever forward I have to pull it up 2 clicks otherwise my foot doesn't fit in-between the handbrake and the clutch pedal. I haven't been able to get to it yet but I'm planning on moving my handbrake outside my Faultless body ASAP.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John McGinnis in San Jose area, CA. on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:57 am:

Putting a wooden wedge to accommodate a lowered steering wheel looks hokey. It is not that difficult to cut the steering column mounting flange loose and reposition it to mount correctly. Requires brazing the flange in the desired position.

steering


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Barker - Dayton, OH on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 03:53 pm:

Chris, I found that on the Speedster my grandfather built, he had inverted the column, using a mounting bracket to secure the flange to, which was bolted to the firewall and the body frame rails. For the column to frame bracket, he used longer bolts and thick bronze sections of tubing cut at the appropriate angles to support the column at the rake he wanted.

Here are some photos:











Shows the angle of the column.

The seats are lower, of course, and the low pedal has been bent outward a bit. Also, you'll note the reverse pedal has had the top cut off to clear the bracket.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John McGinnis in San Jose area, CA. on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 07:57 pm:

I think I need to see my doctor.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Val Soupios on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 09:23 pm:

I machined an aluminum wedge to the angle I wanted for the lower bracket and used longer bolts. Once that was done and the angle was set I made another wedge for the upper support so it could be bolted securely to the dash. Seems plenty strong and it does not change the geometry of the pitman arm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Saylor on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 09:37 pm:

dave, what do you do when you need reverse??


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:48 pm:

Lol John, he never "needs" reverse. He just keeps going forward, reverse is for weenies.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Olsen on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 10:13 am:

That gives me the right idea. Thanks
chriso


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Barker - Dayton, OH on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 12:12 pm:

John - The pedal still works, and I step on the stub to engage reverse. No big deal.

Seth - Good one! I laughed at that myself.


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