I'm trying to figure out how to lower the steering for the speedster. I have seen the blocks that fit on the firewall, but what about the bracket on the frame? Also, how much can I lower the wheel?
I don't mind sitting tall and proud on the speedster, but lower is a tad more comfortable.
Oh, another thing, On a standard T (1923ish)how high off the ground is the seat? This thing feels like I'll get a nosebleed if I go any higher.
Hey Chris, I'll take pictures when I get home, but my steering wheel is pretty significantly lowered. On the bracket against the frame rail my grandfather just used a longer bolt and stack of washers on the rear mounting point. That way it was tilted down but still nice and firm I'm not sure if the lower part of the bracket normally sits inside the rail or outside on the bottom because mine has always been outside on the bottom.
Main thing you need to watch out for is how close your Pitman arm and drag link get to the other bar that links the wheels. I'd move it down to where you think it should and then make sure you turn the wheels all the way back and forth and there's no contact or rubbing. If you start at the rail bracket and then work your way back to the steering wheel you should be good.
The low pedal may have to be bent outwards to clear a lowered steering column.
There are wedge blocks for the frame bracket to be found at the vendors too: http://www.modeltford.com/item/SW1.aspx
But you can make up something yourself almost as easy, I think.
Roger makes a good point, my clutch pedal is bent out to the left and then back upright. I'm dealing with it right now, but when I throw my handbrake lever forward I have to pull it up 2 clicks otherwise my foot doesn't fit in-between the handbrake and the clutch pedal. I haven't been able to get to it yet but I'm planning on moving my handbrake outside my Faultless body ASAP.
Putting a wooden wedge to accommodate a lowered steering wheel looks hokey. It is not that difficult to cut the steering column mounting flange loose and reposition it to mount correctly. Requires brazing the flange in the desired position.
Chris, I found that on the Speedster my grandfather built, he had inverted the column, using a mounting bracket to secure the flange to, which was bolted to the firewall and the body frame rails. For the column to frame bracket, he used longer bolts and thick bronze sections of tubing cut at the appropriate angles to support the column at the rake he wanted.
Here are some photos:
Shows the angle of the column.
The seats are lower, of course, and the low pedal has been bent outward a bit. Also, you'll note the reverse pedal has had the top cut off to clear the bracket.
I think I need to see my doctor.
I machined an aluminum wedge to the angle I wanted for the lower bracket and used longer bolts. Once that was done and the angle was set I made another wedge for the upper support so it could be bolted securely to the dash. Seems plenty strong and it does not change the geometry of the pitman arm.
dave, what do you do when you need reverse??
Lol John, he never "needs" reverse. He just keeps going forward, reverse is for weenies.
That gives me the right idea. Thanks
John - The pedal still works, and I step on the stub to engage reverse. No big deal.
Seth - Good one! I laughed at that myself.