25 engine in 26 frame

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: 25 engine in 26 frame
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bryan C on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 04:41 pm:

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and new to the Model T. I just bought one and it's a bit of a Frankenstein. It looks to be a 25 frame and engine on a 26 frame.
It looks decent but the firewall doesn't match and the hood doesn't match.
I have the chance to get a rolling 26 frame with steering column, hand brake and a few other parts.
My quest is, is it worth it to get the 26 frame so the body will fit better? Will my engine fit correctly in that frame?
I'm still left with having to buy a firewall, a hood, taller radiator and what not. So I'd be making it a bit more original and the body would fit better.
I think I'll end up with more issues then I want but I'd like to get some of your opinions. Thanks

My T26 frame


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 04:48 pm:

That is a 26 body. What does the engine look like?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 05:16 pm:

Bryan

Your body is Late '26, '27 with correct rear fenders that mount to the body.

The front fenders are prior to '26, same with hood, so that is why the fit is off.

The chassis/ frame shown in the small photo is correct for the body you have, so best to use that frame if you can get it. That chassis has the large drum rear axle, as the chassis your body is on now is small drum axle, and being not for the Improved Car, won't have the body mounts or the front fender mounts to put on the correct front fenders.

Any T engine will fit the Improved Car frame, but to be correct a '26-'27 engine could be placed too, but won't matter if you keep the early engine in the late chassis.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 06:47 pm:

Your second photo is a '26 frame. The hood on your first photo is from a '25.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 06:50 pm:

The top bows are 23-25 also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By justin cox on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 07:40 pm:

Jack, how can you tell the top bows are 23-25? I have a 26 and they look very similar. I just want to make sure I get the right ones for my car. Sorry not trying to hijack the thread.....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 08:08 pm:

26-27 ,the main rear bow has a curve in it and the top has another metal brace.The front bow is different also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 08:10 pm:

26-27 ,the main rear bow has a curve in it and the top has another metal brace.The front bow is different also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bryan C on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 09:58 am:

Great, thanks for the help. I was worried about the engine fitment. He's asking $1,500 for that frame. Any thoughts on that price? And what my frame would be worth? I'd love to have it just be a wash and sell my frame for what I pay for this one. Is there is price difference in the years?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 10:11 am:

That's pretty steep for just a frame and axles. I can get a 1912-13 setup just like that for $300 but I don't have a place to put it at the moment.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 11:08 am:

I have 26-7 frames w/front ends and rear ends 125.00 pick up here in Fulton Mo


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 01:06 pm:

I can't tell from the screen pic, but it looks like there MIGHT be a Ruckstell (sp??) rear axle on that frame, that would raise the value considerably, otherwise that's pretty pricey for it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 01:40 pm:

Byran,


Welcome to the fun. Great looking car.

You will get lots of help and suggestions here.

Newbies are told that they should focus on getting their T running, making it safe, and have fun before doing big restorations.

Provide lots of pictures and ask questions -- you'll get more input from experts than you ever expected.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 02:28 pm:

I agree $1500 is pretty steep for an unrestored* chassis with no drive train.

Are you sure about the year of your engine/transmission? I don't think it matters for fit, but I'm purist enough to think it's best for a T to have as many parts from the same year as possible.

*Unrestored in this case means probably needing rebuilding of steering, suspension, brakes, and axles after all the usable pieces have been blasted and painted.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 02:32 pm:

Silly me. I forgot. Being new to the game, you'll need these: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

And you'll need to know about this: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 04:16 pm:

I bought an entire T which was disassembled for $1,500 and it was all the same year parts. I wish you lived closer so I could see what you have. I'm sure that you can find a frame for less, and maybe even swap yours or sell it for what you buy the other one for. You need to quiz local members and attend the swap meets. Eventually you will find what you need.

Does your engine have the two holes on the back for the transmission hogs head bolts? If it does it is a 26 or 27 engine. Could have been built in late 25. If it doesn't have those holes, it is not a 26-27 engine.

Depending on what you want from your car, you could leave some of the wrong year parts and drive it as is. It will be harder to find the correct parts, but if you plan to restore the car, you should try to find at least the correct frame and body parts. It would also be good to get a rear axle with the correct drums. Other parts can be obtained over the years as you find them.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bryan C on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 04:37 pm:

Fred, you're absolutely right. The help and input has been insane so far. I'm really grateful.
I have the 25 engine. I haven't looked for the two holes but I did see the engine number and looked it up. I think it was built in late 24.
Norman, I agree about driving it as is. And that is what I plan to do. Pick up the correct 26 parts as I go. And as Fred said, I'd like to get it running, driving and having fun with it.
Thanks again for all the help. I guess I'll keep my eyes pealed for a 26 frame. Although for $125 it may be worth the drive to MO


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 05:37 pm:

Bryan,
Don't look at it as a "drive to MO" but as a jaunt to see a New T friend! make a day of it & have fun!
(Us T folks usually live in the slow lane--although there's a few who live in the fast lane here too!)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 05:43 pm:

Bryan I have at least 6 26-7 frame"s here plus a 60 yr collectiion of T and TT Parts here as I sell used, NOS, and a line of reprod.I joined the MTFCA in 1966, # 2088, presently have a bad Non fixable heart valve because of other existing health problems, so I'm in the selling mood danuser88@ktis.net Fulton Mo


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bryan C on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 05:56 pm:

John, that's too bad about your condition. I may very well be out that way.
I have a question about those manuals. Do I need the service manual and the other books as well or does the service manual cover those topics.

As far as the frame goes, I've started to take out the interior and the body is a mess. Where it didn't fit just right to the 25 frame it was pounded into shape. So now I'm not sure what I want to do at all. I may just keep it exactly the way it is and concentrate on getting it running. It was disappointing to see how many places were drilled, bent and cut on the body.


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