Is $1500 a fair price for a fresh complete 1926/1927 short block? New Babbitt, aluminum pistons. reground cam, new valves, springs, etc? How can you tell what cam it has in it? Do they ever mark them? This is from an individual I would trust, but at his age, I don't know I would trust his memory as to what he has had done to the block. I plan on seeing it tomorrow, and plan to take Plastiguage to confirm a few journals.
Anything else to consider?
I have a very tired 27 engine in my 21 touring
Doug,
Considering what it would cost you to rebuild yours, it is likely a fair price. With that said, I have bought the same on ebay for about half the price.
I don't know about the cam but I would check the bearings when they are real easy to get at.
Jim
Doug, having my '26 rebuilt to the same specs as you're describing by a very good shop cost real close to what the person is asking.
$1500 is about what one local shop will charge to do all of the block work. The boring, honing to match the pistons, valve guide and lifter reaming, seat the valves, Babbitt the block, grind, line bore and fit the crank to the block, and Babbitt, fit, and straighten the rods. That doesn't include the valves, pistons, rings, cam or cam bearings.
It cost my buddy about $1200 at a different machine shop, another $200 to Babbbit the block, and he still had to purchase the Babbited rods. The place I was told to take the block to wanted $700 to Babbit the block and seat the crank.
Around here finding a machine shop to do the basic work is not a problem. Finding a local place to do Babbiting is.