I am reinstalling the driveshaft and rear axle assembly and have an issue. I am unable to get the ball to seat deep enough into the ball cap So that the bolts can be screwed in. I do know that universal joint is in the tail shaft. I'm able to turn the handcrank in the rear axle does turn. The rear springs and rear axle are connected via the hangers. at the universal joint we have loosened the rear nuts of the radius rods in an attempt to move it forward. no luck.
My next step was to put a come along around Hogshead and rear axle to kind of cinch it up just a bit.
Any other suggestions or recommendations?
Loosen the rear leaf spring frame clamps so the rear end can move forward.
I had the same problem when I redid the pumpkin. Could not close that gap.
I did as Royce said , plus loosened the engine pan front nose clamp, plus loosened the transmission ears, plus used a comealong.
Finally managed to pull it in. T'wernt easy! But it worked and still running fine 6 mos later.
If you are replacing the rear end you should install the U joint and start all the bolts before you put in the shackles.
If your rear end has not been removed, but you are installing the engine, do likewise, push the engine back and install the bolts in the bell cap first, then the crankcase ears and front cap. It is a good idea to get everything lined up and fit first before the final tightening of any of the bolts.
Norman Kling is correct. I do a lot of Ruckstell work for the guys around here and I never install any thing on the rear axle until the U joint is in. I also use a come along from the rear axle to the front axle some times if the U joint is stubborn. I have some THREE wheel jacks that I use to move the rear axle into the rear of the transmission. Again Norman King is correct, if you are putting the motor in, Don't fasten any bolts until the U Joint is in tight.
Hey guys thanks for all your help. Yes I did take out the rear shackles and it slid right up and was able to start the bolts.
Did you put grease into where the U-joint slides into the transmission? I do, grease in there is a good thing. However, even a small spoonful too much grease will prevent the U-joint from going in far enough. And grease all around inside can air-lock which can also make it difficult. I usually use a Popsicle stick to smear grease on three sides to leave an air escape route.
If it is grease packed, but close to fitting up? Rather than pulling it out and needing to line things up again? Put a little pressure on it with a come-along (not a hard pull, you could break something). Go do something else for an hour or two. There should be enough gap in the corners of the U-joint that the grease under pressure will slowly ooze out and back. Then add a little more pressure. You may have to do this a few times (okay if you are not in a hurry), but it has worked for me a couple times when I put too much grease inside.
This is just one idea that has happened to me.
And a side note. Being able to grease pack or air lock the U-joint back is actually a good thing. It means the little disc is in place and well enough sealed inside the transmission to prevent engine oil from flowing out through the U-joint and diluting the rear end grease/oil.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Is it a new uni-joint? if so there is a batch of new ones around that are faulty, the square is to big and will not slide into the drive plate.
If you didn't actually check the fit of the front of the ujoint into the back of the motor and the ujoint was one of the new ones - DON'T go further until you pull it back and check. IF the square front end of the ujoint does not slide "freely" in and out of the motor tail shaft you will very likely wreck something in either the drive shaft or ring and pinion since trapping the ujoint such that it cannot slide easily in and out of the motor will result in some catastrophic forces being applied down the driveshaft toward the rear end and no pinion gear bearing is set up to deal with large forces in that wrong direction. Normal operation of the T rear end assumes that all forces of braking and engine acceleration will result in a forward thrust of the pinion gear against the pinion gear bearing in either event of braking or engine powering forward or rearward. I am amazed that the vendor would not recall at once any and all of the ujoints with the oversize front square drive portion.