I have 26 engine in a 25 touring with a knocking sound coming from cam gear area. The cam has about 1/16" end play which when pushed and pulled sounds like the knock. I understand the spacer washers for reducing the end play work only on pre 26 engines. My cover plate is earlier, with the fan mount and belt tightener. The cam is a 1995 a modified driver grind. Is there a way to reduce this end play?
Why wouldn't the spacer washers towards the timing cover work on 26/27 engines too?
Usually they're only needed on pre 24 T's with reground camshafts - when the cam is reground the base circle is reduced so the pre 24 front bearings won't work controlling the end play anymore.
So - If you have end play in a post 24 cam shaft while the radial play still is within tolerances, then I think you can use thrust washers towards the timing cover for reducing the end play
The correct fix if the engine were out would be to replace the front cam bearing, or add some babbit to the end(s) of it. But if the engine's in the car, I don't see why a thrust washer or 2 in the timing gear cover wouldn't work for you.
There is no need to remove the engine in order to replace the front cam bearing. The only thing you need to remove is the radiator, and of course, the timing gear cover. Also, you need to remove the valve springs and hold the tappets up with clothes pins.
The thrust washers will work on your engine but, if the thrust surfaces on the bearing are worn out then the ID of the bearing where the cam runs is also probably worn out. Can you move the end of the cam up and down?
Kirby, I am sure you can use the washers on ANY T block, it is just unusual as the later front cam bearing will position the camshaft even when the heel is ground away. From what I remember about your ex buzz Pound engine, the camshaft is a high lift, done by grinding away the heel.
An end play of 1/16 inch is excessive with either design, per or post 1925. I think the washer solution is the immediate answer but one day it would interesting to pull out the camshaft and locate the true problem.
By the way replacing the camshaft with the motor in the car can be done, but the radiator, both manifolds,the head and valves must be removed. Then hope the eight clothes pegs hold, on mine, the rear peg let go and the tappet fell into the bottom of the sump by the flywheel. Just to add to the fun I have an oil dam so getting the tappet out was fun :<)
I talked to Glen Chaffin today. He said thrust washers could be used on 26/7 engine but shouldn't need them. I'll give them a try.
. Stephen, I did not check up and down play in end of camshaft. Greenhorn mistake! I will do so when back in town Thursday.
Tony, you are right about the cam ( I have Buzz's notes). A intermediate fix is what I'm looking for for now.
And finally, Norm Kling remembered having a similar problem on his 26 some 5 years ago because the bearing was loose in the block. He removed the front bearing retaining bolt, wrapped a shim around the machined end that goes into the bearing and reinstalled bolt. This tightened the bearing and removed the knock. Still running fine!
So I have some options. Thanks all for the help!