Haven't seen a thread like this in a while so I'll start. Been wanting one of these dual exhaust manifolds for a while. My Bosch magneto linkage made the install a bit more complicated, but my engine sure looks cool with the Zenith carb, dual exhaust, and Bosch DU-4, at least to me anyway!
I put the wire wheel hubs on my car and just finished painting the wheels I hope to get the tires on later this week.
Finally got my TT's rear end back in, started working on getting the Rocky Mountain brakes hooked up. Rear end now has the high speed gears and a Rocky Mountain six speed trans on it.
Getting ready to replace the front spring. Then maybe I'll replace the stock steering gears with the Improved Car gears.
Can you just drop in 5-1 gears? I didn't know if the cases were the same. I thought you needed a 26-27 steering case to run the 5-1s.
Took my '26 to our first BBQ together.
Managed to get the stub shaft to 0.001" at the top. Its a new shaft so I measured at a higher point. Sorry the gauge didn't come out, but that was my proof.
The flywheel was running out though, so we put it in the lathe and true as Bob it was in need a some cleaning up on the inside. Assembling tonight should go ahead no issues.
Also rebuilt the diff with the new fun projects pinion bearing setup. Wow was that an easy job. New pinion and ring gear, brass thrusts, pins, sleeves, bearings etc... Got it done at 10pm last night, and I am pleased!
Thanks to everyone who gave advice, it was a breeze, and definitely not over a newbie's head... Don't want to do it again though
Seth, the 5 to 1 gears and steering shaft go together as a set and are a drop in for the earlier case. I would at least make sure the earlier case has the groove for the longer pin to run and stop in. Other than no groove for the long pin in some of the earlier cases, the case is the same for 4 to 1 or 5 to 1.
Not T, our K has received most of my attention the last three years as we are sorting it out.
Pulling off jugs:
This late winter/early spring Dean Yoder honed the cylinders and we put in new rings. The compression was all over the board, ranging from 28 to 48 lbs.
Now, compression averages in the mid 60s. We are in the process of having new aluminum pistons made, and will bore the cylinders. I expect compression to then be in the "new" range of 70-75 lbs.
Moving to 65 lbs has made a tremendous difference, and the car is surprisingly strong and fast. I can hardly wait to see what aluminum pistons and more compression will do.
Mike Walker rode with me to Mike Bender's shop in Tulsa. Mike is boring and installing the new pistons and valves (extra set of jugs from our "extra" engine"):
When they are finished, we'll swap them with those on the car and do the same with the car jugs. Currently, the pistons are too small for the honed out jugs but we are getting by.....
The new aluminum pistons, now at Mike's shop:
For anyone who rode our K before, the improvement (with new rings and valve job) has been phenomenal. I don't know what the original compression was, but have found a few 40-50 hp competitors listing 70-75 lbs. of compression, and expect that's about where we'll be with the new pistons. I expect the aluminum pistons to reduce stress too.
Meanwhile, we've put on over 400 miles this spring.......
Yesterday was my grandmothers birthday, she turned 90. I took the T to the party, lots of her friends were older of course and loved the T. They all had stories of riding in them and seeing them when they were young.
I've already opened it up and looked. The steering case has the groove for the longer pin. I have the replacement steering shaft and gears to go with.
Cool, wasn't questioning what you were doing, just wondering how it worked. I have a 26-27 steering column in my speedster: my grandfather opted for that because of the better gears (but this was WAYYY back quite a while ago).
Wiped the dust off and took it for ride to get coffee in Newmarket NH.
Came home to use the bathroom and then went for more coffee in Exeter NH.
Been driving the T as much as possible after the long cold winter. We were in the rain for half of the tour this past Saturday.
Indiana road that's part of the stream bed.
This past weekend I painted the turtle and fenders for my "new" Runabout.
Some of you know that I sold the heavy truck body on the Delivery vehicle I restored a year or so ago and am working to put a lightweight Runabout body on that chassis. So the chassis is all ready to go, all it needs is a body. That is in a body shop having a couple of patches installed. I thought I would get it back today, but he said it'd be another couple of days. That's really gonna' crowd me to get it painted (and upholstered?) and on the road in time for our club's summer tour, beginning in two weeks and two days.
Hey Seth, how about a performance report on your engine?
Haha, I didn't take it for a test run yet because I haven't finished the muffler. I took everything off and painted the manifold and all the of the pieces. Muffler is finished up just need let everything dry then I can weld muffler and pipes together. I can't remember the name but I have a trick muffler with a really fat main tube and a flap at the end. Jay has done an accessory of the day on it before. I had to mod it to accept the dual pipes. When I pull a wire through the floor it opens and has zero back pressure. There's a small tube with baffles that the exhaust exits through (and sounds like a normal T) when the flap is closed. It's good for 2-3 mph when I'm over 50. 55 jumps to 57, 58 when I open the flap (plus it sounds awesome).
I don't know what kind of difference the manifold will make. If it'll really be noticeable or not. I can zip up to 60 mph already (with scary amount of throttle left). I hope I can ride around with some other speedsters because even the hottest Ts I've driven with that are still a lot stock just can't hang. I haven't met the hill I can't accelerate on in high. I make a point not climb any hill in Warford overdrive though. I'll let everyone know how Eliza does once she's all back together. I'm hoping to get everything buttoned up and tubes wrapped in the next couple days. Thanks for asking!
Putting the rear end together this week, as soon as the care package from Bob's comes in.
Finished cleaning the block tonight. Stock piling parts for the assembly. Stipe 280 cam, Prus cast iron head, Scat forged counter weighted crank, Chevy valves with Ford tractor retainers. Don Booth gets the credit for making it pretty, I am making it run. Been in the family since 1960, when Dad bought it for $150.00
It's been quite a spring/summer. I got the rebuild done on my motor and transmission for my '26 sedan. Last summer I put the rebuilt rear axle in. I've been slowly making improvements and adjustments to get things right and I'm looking forward to a day of enjoyable cruising around Northern Minnesota on Friday. I'm expecting some great photo ops. The rest of the summer will be dedicated to playing with the speedster and touring with the sedan. Then next Winter I hope to start on the engine rebuild for the touring car. It seems like there's never-ending opportunities to do something when you own Model T's.
Driving it! Mid-winter Solstice Run,Otago, New Zealand. Great weather!
Beautiful picture Nevin. You're on the wrong side of the road though! (haha just kidding)
Nevin, your T would go faster if it wasn't being resisted by the wrong way wings trying to fly backwards.
Ed, looking very sharp
Patience Erich! I will have my freshly modded Taylor Loud Speaker Muffler welded up to the exhaust pipes today and everything should be ready for a test drive tonight. Just have to get off work first.
Here are two threads that talk about the muffler I have. It's pretty cool. The original silver one was just so rusted out and full of holes that I had to recreate it. So, I didn't feel back about cutting off the big front funnel part and making a new one that accepts two pipes.
If anyone is ever interested I'd be happy to replicate the muffler again ($200 plus shipping). Probably take me about a week to manufacture.
I'm driving on the wrong side of the road with my wings on backwards in mid-winter....and I've just realized it's the summer edition!!!
Been driving the heck out of the 1915 pick up and 1927 Touring.
Getting the 1926 Tudor out this afternoon!
Hey Seth, can I order one of those exhaust? I want one, very cool!
Here is the latest progress. Its getting close now! The pics are not in order so its a bit bass ackwards but the project is still going forward...
Fitted the Chaffins Driver II regrind cam and adjustable lifters. Had to shorten my valves to get a bit of adjustment. Its a lot more lift than that '27 barn find motor had.. Can't wait...
Fitted the TW timer, she's a beauty. Double checked that I am at least in the ballpark when it comes to setting the timing... All good there.
After getting the flywheel and stub shaft trued as good as I could, I fitted the new transmission. Everything from the triple gear pins back is new. Then came the turbo 400 clutch plates and I could bolt it up, set the clutch to 13/16"... Goodbye clutch slippage.
Tonight I fit the pistons and rods back in...(was too hard to rotate the motor for trueing the stub and flywheel.) and the crankcase. If all goes well, the motor will be in the frame tomorrow night, and if if if... maybe I can fire her up by Friday...
p.s The TW time is upside down because the car is RHD.
I've been busy working on my new acquisition. unfortunately most is just tuning, I have done a little cosmetic additions like Step plates, and finished the hydem trim on the from seat upholstery. As far as tuning I've rebuilt the coils, adjusted toe in, tightened the front radius rod ball cap, turned down the amps and installed a voltage regulator on the generator, installed a brake light, two new headlamp bulbs...they blew up because the generator was turned up to high, I took off the Holley G carb and installed a NH. Then next thing I plan on doing is removing the front spring, adding two more leaves. (It only has 5 and the fenders rub the tires when I go around corners.) After the front end is fixed I need to remove the differential and replace the babbitt thrust washers.
I think a photo is appropriate, even though it is a pretty std. Model T
I just replaced the front spring, of the 5 leaves one was broken in half. Pulled it apart, and replaced the broken leaf installed two more and shoved it back together on my lunch break. No more tire to fender rubbing when I burn around corners.
After seeing Greg Sarky's "Phoenix Rising,2" thread, I feel as if I haven't done anything for a long time.
Maybe Nevin's picture is actually correct?? Maybe he got the pinion gear on the wrong side of the ring gear, giving him 2 speeds in reverse! The picture was of him on the proper right side of the road, doing 35 mph backwards with his wings properly orientated! Just guessing.
While I'm demonstrating my ignorance here, what would cause the Vaporizor carb on my 27TT to start overflowing?
New float and pivot pin. New needle valve and seat with new gaskets. Blowing in the inlet fitting while rotating the bowl shuts off the air flow. Holding the float up with a gentle finger pressure stops the fuel flow. Float level has been set from high to very low. No effect. Carb bowl has no dings or distortion. I even put the original float back in with the original valve parts. No change. Just the usual setting in the closed trailer over the winter.
OK guys. I'm open to any and all cures. I've missed two show invitations because of this.
Mahlon- Check to make sure the float bowl vent hole isn't plugged.
Just bought a 24 coup needs wood so I will use the chassis for my 25 roadster.
Installed front turn signals & fire extinguisher almost ready to head fore Boon.
I finally finished the base where the seats are, is just paint.
I have also come to expect the nickel plated parts, now I will focus on the riding direction, so rest of woodworking that is quite hard and it's not my thing.
Sorry,I forgot the photos
Fantastic work Eduardo!
Last night's progress.. Yes I have wire tying to do. I will knock that out first and then go on with the rest. Goal: Motor in by midnight!
Looking good Justin, what band lining material are you using?
That engine looks great, good job, a lot of encouragement Justin
Thanks Eduardo, its been a lot of blood sweat and a few tears!
Seth, I seem to recall a box of Scandinavians, but I am not sure. I had another set in the car before, and they are cotton, but this is like a brake lining type material. Perhaps you will know and tell me?
And I'm inventing a better mousetrap..
..not really, it's going to be a folding backrest for the rear seat of my primitive pickup
Got my dual exhaust manifold finished and the installation complete. All of the magneto linkages are painted and cotter pins installed.
Just a note, have been extremely impressed with this header wrap!! It makes a remarkable difference. Normally the pipes get to "melt your skin off" temps if you accidentally touch them. With the wrap they are more like "whoa that's really warm" too hot to just hold on to but far from instant blister. Much nicer on Eliza's floorboards and my wife's feet.
Also, finished painting all of the whitewalls of my tires as well as adding a whitewall to an all black tire. John Danuser had a brand new Sears Allstate Safety Tread for me and the only thing it needed was a whitewall to match my other 4. It's not flawless, but by golly you will have to get up awful close to tell.
Once I get some more rims I'll have a great spare.
Adjusted the rod bearings on my 1922 TT firetruck in preparation for tomorrows parade. What a pain getting at the rear cap. Had an OH Shi# moment when I dropped one of the connecting rod nuts in the flywheel housing. Luckily I drained the oil and was able to wedge my hand between the flywheel and the pan and fish it out.
I just washed one of mine and loaded it on the trailer. We will be leaving early right after breakfast for Coronado to the July 4 parade.
Lorien...I had that moment too... I dropped a cotter pin...took out the drain but and it was stuck to the magnet of the but...close one!
Just finished the first test drive of my new 1922 model T.
Photos are taken just after the drive with my dad (87). who did most of the building.
Andre, Nice car. Great workmanship! Very unique car. I am sure you will have many fun days driving around Belgium. It looks like you are planning on installing a top also, am I correct?
I looted a parts stash I found. All the parts except the frame and axles were crammed in to the little trailer. The frame, axles and most of the parts were for a '27. I need to figure out what the frame is for. It was a good day.
'26 - '27 frame - extended rear cross member.
I pulled my engine down for new pistons and rebabbettted rods.
I should have done more work on the transmission, the clutch disk are hanging up (best guess). I was having a case of T creep before I pulled it down but I attributed it to the heavier oil I was using as it started about the same time I changed oil so seeing the small grooves so I didn't give it much thought. Now I figured out it must be the wear in the lugs in the brake drum. The low band is backed off as far as it can be without it going out of the cam and locking up.
I also installed an original aluminum intake but was having a flat spot in the acceleration with both the Marvel and Kingston carb so I made a plate with a smaller hole to fit between the carb and intake, that seems to help with the Kingston but have not tried the the Marvel with it. It's a bit harder to start.
Put a 4 dip pan on, have had the inspection plate off two times so far to check things, what a joy to have the big opening to work in.
Has anyone ever thought of installing drains in the dips of the plate, or done it? Even lifting the front of the car, the plate still holds a good amount of oil in the troughs.
I drove my 1924 touring / pickup conversion this morning, then changed the oil. Henry certainly was generous with the size of the drain hole, what a gusher when the drain plug dropped!
Tweaking and tightening on the 1927 Touring. Sure runs nice!
Got the 1926 Tudor out for a drive after I checked all the fluid levels. It is my "winter car" but ya need to run 'em!
Steve Tomaso, I'm new at this T stuff. What do you see that tells you it's an extended frame, and what body type do you think went on it? Thanks, PK.
Once you see a pre '26 '27 frame, it is quite evident compared to an earlier frame. The rear frame cross member is quite wider and has the reinforcing flange - not sure if the flange was a running change or not - (I'm more of an "early" T guy myself) and the front cross member should ("should" is the operative word here) have an "ear" for lack of a better word on both sides riveted/bolted to it whereas the earlier frames are quite square in the front.
All "Improved" model ('26 - '27) bodies will bolt right up.
I have family in & from your Great State as well as several friends !
Steve - That flange is a mid ? 26 change as my early 26 Coupe has the wide rear cross member but no flange.
Fixed a flat. The tube in the top photo let loose a couple weeks ago. It had very nice tone when it burst and got some nice looks to people on the street at the time. It looks like it split on a seam where it was folded. It was very thin rubber probably from the 70's.
I replaced it with a "Crest de Luxe" tube made in Canada. I am not familiar with these but it had been in a Canadian car tire. I'm thinking it may be from the 60's. Very well made and seems sound.
I have had very good luck with tires I bought in the 60's and while I use much better tires on cars I tour with, these old tires work fine around town,
OK! For all you Nervous Nellie's out there that scared me into cleaning up a lower wishbone for my early axle here it is. I don't know how I made it the last 30 years. Thanks in advance for saving my life.
At least you can feel comfortable and confident knowing you have forum approval. =)
Got her out and running!
Taylor is a that a solid brass gas tank?
Tom Lovejoy, sent you a PM about Taylor Loudspeaker muffler. Please check junk email or PM me. Thanks!
Drove in a local 4th parade, then drove around a great wildlife refuge with our son riding shotgun.
Well everybody... Muffy runs again!
I'd been burning the midnight oil all week... following the Jim Patrick gasket sealing step by step program! She doesn't want to give the oil back to me on the floor anymore! And the Vic Zannis book proved invaluable. There are also many many folks who helped directly and indirectly through their contributions to this forum, so thank you all.
I built the motor vertically as suggested, and trued both the stub shaft and fly wheel in my own way.. but its near as dammit to dead on. The tranny is already balanced, as is the crank, flywheel, pistons and rods. So, once the TW timer was correctly timed, I choked the Russ Potter Kingston 4 ball 4 times... flicked the switch, and nearly got a free start. It is stiff to crank, so I don't expect anything for a while still, but she did try to start, which was very cool, and inspiring.
I only ran her for 30 seconds, as the radiator is not on yet, but it was noticeably a much smoother and quieter engine than before.. Usually i'd have to do my rounds making sure I didn't leave anything on a running board or fender as it would vibrate off! Not the case anymore. I am well pleased.
I will take a video and post it once the radiator is on, and I clean the dust off the 9 months of storage...
Yes it is! We have never seen one like it before. Its beautiful but is a lot of work to polish as one may think.
That's awesome. I saw where The Brass Works is making an all brass gas tank, but I'd never seen another one until I saw yours. My speedster absolutely MUST have one now! I also really like the raised Ford lettering on the side.
Drained water from the sediment bowl at the gas tank and also the carburetor (NH) bowl. This was done after the car quit as we were driving it to our family July 4th picnic. I had to leave it beside the road and get other transportation to the picnic.
Came back in about 5 hours, after the mentioned draining the car started and I drove it home.
Seth. We bought the car the way it sits. The brass tank just tops it off. The car is a 1910 speedster that was a full restoration. All we did to it was fix the taillight. She's a strong runner and a blast to drive. I think the tank holds 9 gallons?
Welcome to the Nervous Nellie club! Glad to have you aboard.
Took the 24 Touring out for nice little run Sunday. Car ran great!! I recently installed a new Berg's radiator and hadn't really driven the car for any long runs since changing it. Took my 88 year old father-in-law along for the ride. New radiator worked well and my father-in-law still can't believe how great the car runs with a good set of coils. Thanks Coilman and Gery for great service and product. It is a real pleasure to drive a nicely tune Model T.
I cleaned up and installed an of the era Wilmo manifold set. I've never run one but have seen a few over the years. This new touring car is a blast, I now get the pleasure of running all these interesting add ons that my MT 500 car can't run.
Pulled the wheels off for re-spoking.
Today was "Bring your T to work day"
I'l post the video shortly.
Not a great video... I'll try again later
Woot woot! Lookin' great. I didn't know Muffy had gold pinstriping, it looks really good.
This might be my favorite mod so far. It's like driving a completely different car. Everyone should do this to their speedster.
It's stupendous. I have SO much more leg room. Granted, in a more open speedster this might not be as much of an issue. But man with my deep cowl there just wasn't much room to get in and out and even once in, there was basically 1 place my left foot could be. Now though! Woooo buddy, I'm loving it. If anyone is interested, I took another handbrake and used an extra parking brake arm so that my rods would stay in the same place. I then I welded on 7 inches of 3/4" rod. Drilled a hole for the pin and peened away. For the quadrant I used 8 inch 5/16" bolts with steel tubing (I don't remember what size) but I cut it 6 & 5/8", that put everything in just the right place. The whole thing from start to finish might have taken an hour and half, but there were multiple wifely interruptions. I wish I had done this forever ago.
Slowly progressing on my coupelet. Two weeks ago I did a fit check prior to final assembly (prime and paint undersides of sheet metal). Messed up right rear fender doing some alignment, just needs a minor weld touch up.
At home I'm working on the engine, reamed the valve guides for oversize valves, received my new aluminum pistons, working on transmission also.
Front fender bottoms primed and painted
Those front fenders are NICE! I sometimes see '15-16 fenders at swap meets, but they don't look like that!
Seth magnificent work, looks like you read my thoughts I've time also considering a similar solution for my speedster, if you do not mind maybe take borrow your idea is brilliant.
As you say it is more comfortable to raise and lower and is more aesthetically beautiful, it reminds me of the racing cars of the century.
Hey Eduardo, copy it exactly if you want to! I don't have a patent on the idea. When I get home today I can even tell you the size of the steel tubing I used.
The more I make stuff look good the more I realize I need to take that Faultless Hoosier body off and smooth out the dents and dimples and then paint it. I found a yellow Krylon paint that matches it EXACTLY. I'm going to systematically paint each of my rims (they look really bad right now) but then my dad and I will take this body off and see if we can clean it up some and then paint it. I'll go back and put on a few coats of clear to protect it and it'll be like new.
Nice modification, Seth !
One fender was fine (only small cracks at the rivets), the other was rusted at the running board joint. I found a great welder who grafted on a joint from a 14 fender I bought at the Bakersfield swap meet. He did an awesome job.
Can you tell which one he did?
Right one - I thought it might have been a replacement (Rootlieb) fender.
Put balancing beads in my 2 front spoked tires.
Helping a friend get his C cab going.
Good guess, yes it's the right one. My car will have it's original sheetmetal no repop stuff.
Our '14 was restored in the late 60's from an original car and it also has all it's original sheet metal, including some rivet repairs to the fender lips !
New glass fitted. Chris.
Chris, tell us more about the four stringed carburetor sitting on the seat. I'm not familiar with that one although I'm sure Stan Howe has one.
Today, the original rear end is coming out of my '13 runabout. I've never had it apart since I bought it, and don't know what to expect. I just hope the axles are good, so I don't have to use any of my NOS axles! I'll try to remember to take pictures as I progress, but it won't be the same when it goes back together. It's going to get a Ruckstell, and genuine original Rocky Mountain brakes. Additionally, a former owner removed two spring leafs from the rear spring, and I have a complete original eight leaf to replace it with. It also has some kind of accessory shock absorbers, and I'm giving them to a friend who likes that stuff.
Rich -- I thought that was a violin with an amp.
I finally put the twin Hi. Lo unit in my 1921 TT wrecker
Wow. A ford flathead V-8 would have a hard time pulling a
Hill in high gear I'm guessing about 40-45 in high on flat
Ground.. But there is a nice gear that gives 30-35 without
Killing the engine rpm wise it's a nice unit it shifts on the fly
Sorry no pics
I restored my 23 Coupe almost 20 years ago and have driven it a lot of miles without doing much to it. It was starting to need some work so I pulled it into the shop this spring and I.......
Replaced one rear axle
New rear seals
New spokes in all the wheels
New tires and tubes
Needed one new felloe
All new wiring
Drag link was bent so straightened it
New wheel bearings
Installed 26-27 carb adjustment rod so I don't need to reach across the passenger to adjust.
Added fuel gauge (terrible picture)
Repainted the hood
Put on NOS trunk lid
New spare tire cover
Had to build a U-Joint for carb rod
New carpet and floorboards
That is enough for me. I just hope it will go for another 20 years (someone else will have to fix it the next time)
The basic shape of that 4 stringed carb looks like an electric one. There was just an story about someone here in Oregon (I think) making them with a 3D printer in about the same shape. They could be made in any size and were great for youth and up, as a new one could be printed as the kid grew.
Cleaned the Fuzz off of the magnet in my oil screen. It always amasses me how much is there.
Also installed a better seat belt for our Grand children (one at a time). We had a leather belt and footman loops for the car seat but now they are old enough for a real belt. This set-up will keep them from falling out but I plan to do a proper one tied into the frame someday.
This is not meant to re-open the seat-belt discussion. It is just what I did today.
I bought one of those Stroh violins (Chris Cook's post) in Burma last year. It cost $40.00 new. I've got no ability to play it but it looks very cool.
Richard,this Stroh Violin was made in about 1940 and lives in the shed near the Model Ts. Sometimes I use it at gigs. They were very popular around here once in dance bands. Chris.