Here's the dash on our 1915 roadster pickup. Yes I know the cowl is a later one!
: ^ )
I need to find a dealers tag for mine. So cool.
Finding any dealer's tag is not that hard. They come up on Ebay from time to time, if you're willing to step up to the plate. Finding one from a specific dealer, such as the dealer that sold your car, new. or the dealer in your hometown, can be a problem, especially if they have been out of business or were a small volume dealer.
I'm willing to step up for a PA tag. I've gotta start checking out Tbay. All of my searches bring up mostly tool tags.
hers my 1911 dash.
'12, 14, 15, 17
1921 Autowa bodied T
I want to see a photo of a complete '22 dash.
My 14 dash
1915 roadster. Everything is correct except for the wrong throttle rod, dash shield, floor boards, ignition switch, steering column and a few minor details.
My 1914 T Runabout. # 395707. I know it's the wrong Coil Box, but everything else is correct.
My '12 Commercial Roadster Pickup. Not too sure the coil box is correct. But this little guy sure loves a good run!
Lil dot NW of key is high beam indicator. Center is starter button, right is temp gauge. Thing on bottom is beeper for turn signal.
27 non starter updated for fun. All reversible nothing permanent.
My '15 Touring, "Penelope," is equipped for practical touring with a 12-volt electrical system. The little silver cylinder at the top-left is a cigarette-lighter jack for powering my electric tire pump and GPS (which doubles as a speedometer). The GPS power wire and plug are dangling next to it.
We have a 1920-something, Model T mini-panel with an ammeter, and the headlights are hooked up to the rotary switch. Starter button at the bottom. I tried rubber pedal treads, but the left and center pedals come up too high for me to comfortably slip my foot on and off. Worked okay on the brake pedal, though, so I kept that one.
A new, wood dashboard was installed by the previous owner. It didn't have a data plate, so I bought one from Lang's and had it stamped with the engine number because I don't know the body number. I shamelessly stole the air-bag idea from another Flivver-Forumite. Car-show spectators think it's hysterical.
Barely peeking out from behind the air-bag is a rare, original (but non-working) push-pull headlight switch I bought from a Canadian supplier a few years ago. I screwed it into the dashboard just for a little extra cosmetic detail. Now, working, reproduction switches have become available.
Another departure from authenticity is the interior pull-rod for the choke, next to the mixture knob.
Here's the dash to my '26 coupe:
In the third picture, the dash light is being used to power the Fyrac windshield light which I tested before installing through the windshield several years ago.
Tim & Stuart
Where did you get your "Angle up" clocks from??
Would love one for my 1910 but can't seem to find a supplier in Australia
I fit a clock to cover the mixture screw hole not used when the firewall is reversed for RHD
Alan in Western Australia
my clock was given to me by the guy from whom i purchased the car. i mounted it to the dash.
This is the picture I have on my laptop..
OH you mean the inside!
It is hard to tell what is inside and what is outside on my T.
It is so simple even I can figure it out!
In real life it has floor boards and the exhaust is wrapped with "racers manifold insulation"
Almost missed the instrumentation!
Lots of cool dashes. I will say that the white rubber mats are just awesome. I don't know how you drive those T's and keep the mats clean but man they look good.
How about some speedster dashes? These are all mostly stock Ts. I have a really nice piece of hickory that is going to be my dash but I've got to get my handbrake outside the body first. (have all parts together, just waiting on extra handbrake lever to be delivered). I have a Bosch magneto switch, but I need a cool speedstery headlight switch. Anybody have any recommendations? I'd prefer it to be brass to match the rest of Eliza. Eventually I'll get a Jones or Stewart speedometer (but that's $500+ for another day)
Hey Fred - I like the oil gauge. How does it work?
Dan, It's a Peck oil gauge. Here it is from a previous Accessory Of The Day post.
I also notice a lack of speedsters here. So I will post a photo of my boat-tail's dash. Not a lot to it. I am trying to keep the car appropriate for 1919.
While I am at it, here is the '24 coupe. You can see the hand-pump handle and pressure gauge to aid in fuel delivery in the mountains where I live.
Both cars have dash lamps, but the cover I picked up for the boat-tail doesn't quite fit and falls off. Guess I need to try another cover or entire lamp.
Fun thread! Thank you all.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I should have mentioned that the coupe already had the pump and gauge, along with the Ruckstell and Rocky Mountain Six Speed transmission when I bought it. It had been set up for use in San Francisco hills and was one of the reasons I decided to get it. You can see the Ruckstell shift handle clearly and the RM-6 handle in the shadows in the photo.
Again, Thanks all!
I'm still hoping that someone will provide a photo of a dash in a '19-'22 electric open car.
If they are different through those years, then I am interested in that too.
Here is the dash on my racer...one function only...on or off...switch under front of driver's seat.
Late 1912 Dash
1914 Speedster I have had since I was 16 years old. Note the second Monocle which only appeared after I got engaged
Here is my Fronty dash,
From top left (clockwise) -oil pressure, clock, speedo, rev counter - ign switch center.
Here is my Fronty dash,
From top left (clockwise) -oil pressure, tank Air pressure, clock, speedo, rev counter - ign switch center.
My Montana 500 car. Hard to believe that I've put over 6000 miles onto it since I built it five years ago. I would wager that 3/4 of those miles were at full throttle.
Alan, the clock came with the car. And it keeps pretty good time...have to wind it every two days. Seth, thanks for the white mat comment, the key to it is clean, clean, clean!! I'll wear it out cleaning it!
'13 Canadian Touring
It had a Heinze coil box and coils in it, which were not correct. We built a box for the new KW's and refitted the old Heinze switch. I'm going to sand the box and satin it to match the master vibrator box. The firewall is also newer. Again, needs to be stained darker like the old one (which fell apart by the steering column)
And I have not forgotten about Bob Trevan's beautiful floor mats for RHD's... Its on the list Bob.
My 22 dash before and after. I know it's not correct but did the best I could with what I had to work with
Well done James!
Thank you Justin, this 22 still sports its limited edition one piece spindles which is unique ive been told.
Great job James. Those before and after pictures are striking! Did a tree fall on it to bend the dash crossmember like that? How does the cowl look? Is it bent as well? You can probably get that crossmember totally straight by taking out the floorboards and bridging the gap with several stacked 2" x 6" boards on the floorboard shelves on each side of cab, then using a hydraulic bottle jack under the low point of the bent crossmember, gently jack it up until straight. That is if it won't do damage to the cowl or the floorboard shelves. Jim Patrick
Thanks Jim, the T was stored in a woodshed my Grandpa parked it there in 1942. Sometime around 1969 the shed collapst and the main beam landed on the cowl and destroyed the windshield. I tried to straighten the cowl the best I could, and found the correct windshield for it you can see it on my profile pic. Thanks again James
Thank you James. It looks great! I hope your Grandpa was able to see the results of your efforts? I bought my '26 coupe in 1970 when I was 16 for $600.00 about the time my Grandpa (b. 1897) was diagnosed with lung cancer. His first car was a Model T and even though his broke his arm when he was young, he reserved a special place in his heart for Model T's and he always asked how I was doing on it. I'm sure he was hoping to see it before he died. I finished it 2 years later, in October of 1972 and the first place I drove it was the 50 miles from Brandon, FL to Lakeland, FL, where he was, to give him a ride. He had to get up out of bed and get dressed, but he loved everything about it. The sound, the smell, the feel, all took him back to his youth. I left for bootcamp a month later, in November 1972 and the next time I saw him was unconscious on his deathbed. He died in August of 1973. He is one of the reason's I love my T so much is because of the happiness it brought my grandpa during a very dark time in his life. Jim Patrick
Jim what an excellent story! I was just out of bootcamp and at mos training when my grandpa passed away in 2001. At his funeral his brother asked me if I wanted the T as a project. After 5 years active duty, getting married buying a house I was able to start the project in 2010. The first time I drove it was special because I knew he was looking down at me smiling, since he was the last one to drive it in 1942. Growing up I remember him telling me stories of the T, wheels falling off, pulling stumps, a stripped timing gear in the woods so he left it there for months till he found another. Thanks again James and Semper Fi
This is how I got it in 2001
Great idea Jay, glad you started this thread. I enjoyed the pics.
Me too...so I'll show ya mine !!!
that peck oil gauge is gorgeous - I want one!!!
Jay -- Thanks for answering the question about the Peck oil gage.
Ken - It looks cool but the spring wound wire binds and I have to snap it to get it to read so it is like an account that says what do you want the number to be. I have tried various types of "lubrication" without success.
I think I have another - with most of the parts - with a box somewhere in the garage.
Accessory fuel saver. Chris
Thanks Jay and Fred. Very neat. I'm going to keep an eye out for one. Although I think it looks better on a wood firewall than under a metal dash.
White floor mats on a T driver are overrated!
Really interesting but it raises a question in my mind that maybe you guys can help me with. On my 1914, is the ignition plate on the front of the coil box supposed to be completely unpainted, or painted background with the raised letters as brass?
Unpainted brass - 1915 box shown - same switch & face plate.
This is our dash in the '26 Martin-Parry country club body (hack) They were supplied with the commercial chassis.
My previous 1926 Touring:
My 1914 Runabout:
People ask in amazement; "Did you do 200 MPH in this?"
"Nope," I answer..."You have to watch out for those decimal points!"
ZOOM ! How about I follow a Fast Ford with the opposite? This is the dash in our TT truck. Martin-Parry supplied this neat metal panel dash with their earlier closed cab vehicles. Plenty of room for the dash panel and as many extras as the owner wished to add.
My 27 Runabout is in pieces, getting things ready to paint. The dash was black, car was green. Planning to paint car the original Gunmetal Blue.
Is the dash painted body color or is it always black?
This is our 1912 Canadian Model T dash The wire under the coil box is the wolf whistle,the round switch is 1915 light conversion put on by the original owner
There was no firewall/dash on the express project when I got it. The firewall is for a high hood. There is a spacer between the firewall and the laminated dash to protest the maple.
Steve Tomaso, Thanks.
Just your standard 1924 open starter car dash, except for the newsboy cap hanging from the choke knob.
So . . have I learned something from this thread? Could a '15 ignition switch be of the 'cupped' steel type or is the bakelite switch w/ brass plate the only correct way?
Bakelite material switch w/brass plate for the "purist".