I have one of these installed on our 1915 roadster pickup. The idea is not to tighten this so much that you take the weight of the engine completely off the pan arms and change the drive line geometry.
Here's two that I just picked up to install on my other T's.
Here's some trade journal ads for a similar belly support made by a different company.
I have a cast aluminum "Liberty" accessory brace, it fits like a glove, very nice.
Ed, I like the bracket holding your accessory wishbone!
I posted these liberty truss supports I have under Accessory Of The Day a while ago.
Jay and Ed, It is interesting how your Double Wish Bones are attached to your pan. Mine seems to be connected directly to it. I am afraid after 100 years to remove the oil and grease. The engine might leak more than it does now and not run. Mark
Nice accessory. I don't suppose they're available in any catalog?
Jay, do you know anything of the history of the pan you show on you 15 pickup? It appears to have the flat pan mounting gasket surface, but has the later squared off end on the pan arms. It also seems to have the reinforcing webs down the front of the pan beside the wishbone mounting, unlike the flat front on Ed's photo. I am not familiar with that mix of details.
Allan from down under.
Bob, I have about 5 different manufacturers makes of these gathered from years of swap meets. To answer your question no they are not being reproduced to the best of my knowledge.
Allen R B,
I really cannot answer for Jay. However, I have seen a few pans with the square end on the arms like the one shown in Jay's photo where close examination showed the arm had been changed. I suspect some replacement arms were made that way, and looking at the photo, I think that one was likely a replacement.
Thank you Jay! I love these posts! (Still)! Especially when they show something that I have one of.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Can anybody see a downside to these supports? I realize the fourth main moves around as the car goes down the road. Could the truss improve this issue or possibly make it worse?
Stephen, I am using one on an engine that has a welded pan arm, just as some extra insurance. I used some thin neoprene sheet rubber on the area in contact with the pan, just so it will not rub a hole in the pan. I think the trick is to have it installed just tight enough. Installed so it isn't loose, nor so tight as to move something out of place. If your fourth main is moving around, you already have a problem, soon to have a disaster.
If you don't mind a hellacious rattle be sure not to put any padding on the brackets as well as under the pan. I would imagine (don't know for sure) that is why there are so many un-used units laying around.
Tim, I mean the pan flexes somewhat as the frame twists and when braking.
Bob, T's are already noisy enough. I'll put a piece of thin rubber between the pan and the support.
I have used the style Jay shows with the Y-type frame bracket on every T I have owned. I do not use any padding and have never noticed any noise. They seem to be a common accy item. So must have worked pretty well back in the day. Jay if you have an extra of the Liberty style I would like to add one to my collection. I may have something to trade or ??? PM me if you have one.
I recently bought one of these at an auction and plan on installing it on my '23. I have been reading various posts on the forums about how they should be installed. The general consensus seems to be snug but not tight enough to actually move the engine pan.
One discrepancy I've noticed is the placement of the nuts. Some say it should be one on each side of the Y bracket, to keep the arm from moving. Others say both nuts should go on top of the bracket to jam against each other. This makes sense to me, because if the strap is snug against the pan there shouldn't be too much movement. Anybody have any thoughts?
Wouldn't it be nice if this item became generally available again?
Jared, If the nuts are both on the same side, the little bit of movement will wear the threads of the bolt. I have seen lots of these with the threads worn completely off. If you look at the ad above for the "Pioneer" truss it shows the nuts on opposite sides.
Donnie, that is the best logic I've seen for doing it that way. I seem to remember one of the forum members mentioning the use of lock washers on at least one of the nuts to help keep it from backing out. This, to me, seems the easiest way to keep everything nice and secure.
Another question I have is regarding the best way to pad the device. I've read about putting a piece of an old inner tube, among other cushiony substances, between the plate steel and the engine pan. How have some of you cushioned the hooks on the Y's? I've been pondering it awhile, and would love to hear your thoughts.
I don't have one of these but had a set of the engine ears that attached to the pan bolts and replaced the ears. I carried them for years and donated them to Speedy Bill's museum in Lincoln when we were there a few years ago. It seems to me that lock washers need to be tight to work. Since the bolts are tightened up only to snug up the support to the pan, I doubt the lock washers would be tight enough to work. I'd double nut them or drill for a cotter pin.
Have used these style belly straps since 1985 on the 1924 touring, the belly strap came on the car when pulled from the barn. Since then have installed two others.
Two nuts are needed. The hangers are fitted on the frame, then the lower nuts must be turned on down the strap shafts. Insert the shafts, and fit the upper nut on to hold up the strap while you fit it.
Snug the lower nuts by turning up the shaft until the strap fits well, sometimes if the strap is well-used you may have to re-shape the strap to meet the crankcase fully, before placing, easy to do with a leather mallet against the crankcase pan.
Once the lower nuts are fixed, then tighten down the upper nuts to lock the belly strap in place. The lower nuts are the ones that tighten the strap. The upper nuts are lock nuts. The belly strap does not need any padding, that just causes wiggle which is what you are stopping with the belly strap. The belly strap is extra holding power to keep the motor from shaking so.
Don't need these on the Improved Car, as that trans hogshead is fastened to the back of the engine block, and also there are two straps from the engine block to the frame.
Ford finally fitted on factory "belly straps" only from above
Here is another style not shown in the thread. The beauty of this one it is very easy to install, just hooking on the bottom inside edge of the frame. I am using it on a '26 that has had a pan arm cracked but welded. Just as a little extra insurance. I am going to glue a thin layer of black neoprene sheet where it touches the pan.
I agree with Mike, lot less likely to need one with the extra straps on the improved car, but mine was cracked.
I meant Dan... Sorry
Jock strap, tight enough to support, loose enough to be comfortable