So I removed the engine, cleaned it, painted it; POR-15’d the frame. Went to put the engine back in-problems. I put the ball cap on the trany; aligned the driveshaft. But can not get the engine/trany to slide back far enough on to the driveshaft? I jacked one rear tire and hand cranked the engine; thinking maybe this would line up the driveshaft-didn’t work. I need to slide the engine/trany back about one inch. Can’t get it to go. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Check to see if the clutch release mechanism on the trans cover is hanging up on the brake cross shaft cam. Happens all the time. Make sure the lever is all the way forward and remove the bolt in the release arm on the cover if needed.
Erik: Okay, I did play with the clutch lever but did not seem to get it right? I will try again later when it is not so hot. I gave up about 5 pm. Thanks, Chuck
Man I heard that!! If I had an air conditioned shop with a fridge and a bathroom is never come inside. I've had to quit several times lately just cause I was so tired of sweating.
Couple of hints.
Pull the wishbone down so it isn't hanging up the install.
Check the front engine mount to be sure the pan is above it so the engine front isn't hung up.
Helpful to smear some grease on the frame rails under the crankcase arms so it can glide back.
Then the real trick is to align the square shaft of the universal joint to the square hole in the shaft.
You can use a special wrench for that, or make one with a stiff plastic putty knife. That tool will allow you to rotate the universal joint square shaft to be sure it engages.
From there some push is needed on the engine to slip it in. For this a helper is really required some times, to push the engine back while you align the universal.
Have found a well packed full of grease universal joint ball will suspend the square shaft and hold it upright for this procedure.
The red strap is quick release buckle type that helps to hold the drive shaft in alignment, by adjusting its length a bit at a time, it pulls the driveshaft in line as you align the square shaft with the tool. There is no way to get your fingers in there or would you want too
Hey Dan, those are really simple, really great suggestions. I especially like the grease packed into the u-joint ball to hold the square in place.
I had same problem. Even though everything was lined up and the ujoint was partially in. I set up a scissor jack between the engine head in front and a length of wood crosswise across the headlight braces. I needed just a few turns to push the engine into place.
I use a piece of string to hold the end of the U joint in the center. I tie it to the grease cup behind the u joint. I tie up the front of the drive shaft to the crossmember to be in the right position to meet the engine. I use a chain hoist to lift the engine just slightly in front, just enough to clear the front mount and push the car forward so that the weight of the engine is toward the rear. I try to get the socket on the driven shaft in alignment with the square spline on the U joint. If I am lucky it will slide right in. If unlucky I keep trying until it does. It doesn't matter if you can't get all the string out. The movement of the u joint will soon grind it up while you are driving. Note if you have a tight engine, you might need to lift one rear wheel and rotate to align the shaft with the socket.
packing with grease to hold the universal is the best thing i have tried in awhile. Tried it Sunday installing a motor---like a school marms leg it went so smooth. No battle no fuss
THAT WAS EASY!!! No it wasn’t!!! When it got to 92 yesterday, I just gave up as I was tired of scraping old grease and trying to align. I made a tool out of cardboard to hold the driveshaft-that worked. Took off the linkage, trany cover, nothing, still wouldn’t slip in. Something had to be hanging up somewhere. IT WAS HENRY’S LITTLE BLOCK OF WOOD UNDER THE DRIVER’S SIDE TRANY ‘EAR/WING’. It had moved and was tightly wedged against the engine and frame. Jacked up the engine and got that blocked aligned and it slipped in. Those little wood blocks are a pain in both removing and installing an engine. I need a hoist.
Dan: How do you keep your shop floor so clean? Mine has 97 years of the dirt/grease/grime/gravel/oil on it from the 1919 C-door. I don’t know if I will ever get it cleaned up?
Everyone: Thanks for all the suggestions. Chuck