I was on an RV forum and saw a thread about a report from BlackStone Labs. They do engine and transmission oil analysis so RV's and trucker's or any one can tell what is wearing in their vehicle. They state the best oil to use is.................
any oil that is within specs of the engine, from the cheapest to the most expensive, they will all protect your engine the same. I am not saying I buy into this but read the report for yourself. The link is below
And let the debate begin!
My favorite brand of oil has always been the one that's on sale. Thanks for the supportive documentation.
It may be different today but I had an 85 Crown Vic that had to have an engine rebuild at 85,000 miles. I changed oil every 3,000 miles. I was a believer in Quaker State oil and that was all I used. I found out from a ford dealer that the 85 engine had a breathing problem in the cross over intake manifold that would get clogged with carbon too quickly. The problem was exacerbated when an oil with higher ash content was used. At the time, Quaker State was an oil with one of the highest ash contents.
I had a '75 Chevy Custom Deluxe 1/2 ton P.U. that I inherited from my Dad when he passed away in '87. It had a California in-line 6 with three-on-the-tree. It was the only vehicle my Dad ever owned from new.
By '91 the engine was getting a little tired so I asked a co-worker of mine to rebuild the engine. He came up to me a few days after I dropped off the truck with him and he asked "What kind of oil do you use in that thing?".
I replied "The same thing my Dad always used, Quaker State Deluxe 20-30, why?". My co-worker then told me that when he pulled the side cover off the engine, it looked like someone had packed the chamber solid with chocolate whipped cream.
Since then, I've never touched Quaker State oil.
I buy store brand, straight, 30-weight from Pep Boys. The car isn't driven during the winter and as it has a retro-fitted starter, I only hand-crank the engine when it's already warm from running, so there's no need for multi-weight.
My car only puts on about 500 miles over the driving season, so I change the oil once a year as part of the "pickling" process for winter storage.
I guess the other consideration with a Model T is the "leak factor". Some T's are pretty neat and clean with minimal dripping. Other's owners have to follow them around with a bag of oil dry. If I had a 'leaker', I would probably buy what was cheaper and on sale. If not, the decision to buy something better depends on your wallet, miles driven, mechanical factors, availability, etc. Not sure there is any blanket answer here. Don't remember any specific problem with Quaker State oils since I haven't run them in almost 40 years.
I used Quaker State in My Alfa Romeo's and had no problems, but changed when QS had a mistake with their additives that trashed a bunch of motors when it got cold outside. I was lucky and didn't get any of the bad oil but know a few people that did.
I tried Pennzoil but it seemed to leak more than QS so I did not use it.
Today I am with the "least expensive" crowd. A few days ago I picked up 4 cases of Shell multigrade oil at BJ's for less than $2 a quart and no tax because I am in NH.
The author of the Blackstone Labs report may be entirely correct.
However with my Chevy venture van at 185,000 miles and NO oil consumption between 7500 mile interval oil changes, its hard to switch from my 5w-30 synthetic.
Might be superstition on my part - but I'm not gonna change ANYTHING !
10w-30 for me and the cheapest I can find.
Model T's needing a 'specialized' oil is a myth!
The Blackstone lab report is correct. Any of the so called cheap oils that I use is way better than any that was available in the Model T era.
Because of being a garage sale nut I often pick up unopened quarts of oil some times in the free box or .50 a quart. Lawn mowers and small engines always need oil----so do kids and grandchildren. It just gives me more to spend on T stuff I want.
Any oil not heavier than 30 wt and no oil containing graphite or moly. Any brand is fine. Synthetic oil is a waste of money for a T because it needs to be changed regularly since it has no filter and oils both the engine and transmission. A myth: My car leaks so I just change oil by adding. Sadly, the dirt and dilution from water and gasoline and the carbon buildup remains in the oil still left in the car. You still need to change oil regularly even if it leaks badly.
Avoid 5w-30 like the plague. Know one guy who switched from 20w-50 and 6 months later his wife was living with another man; he had lost his job, and spend most of his time either drinking and smoking or watching Looney Tunes cartoons at full volume on an old B&W TV set in his barn. 5w-30, in other words, ruined his life. Debate over.
You do know Constantine, some of those life changes would be welcomed in some guys life!
I'm betting there are plenty on here that refuse to use 5W-30 simply because Royce recommends it.
Constantine, You are taking two completely unrelated things and blaming one on the other! Maybe I am dense, but I don't get it.
Oil is cheap but engines are not!!Bud.
I think Constantine is telling a joke, I say, that's a joke, son!
Mr King did my engine and told me to run Rotella. 15-40. That's all I have ever ran in my Model T. My every day driver I run Penzoil. I've run Penzoil for over 30 years.
When I bought my first car I was told to avoid Pennzoil like the plague. I wasn't told exactly why but somebody once mentioned something about paraffin. So I've always avoided Pennzoil and I guess, as long as I can get Valvoline, I won't use Pennzoil. Maybe someone could enlighten me regarding why I shouldn't use Pennzoil.
My wife is in the Subaru business and we have found over the years Q-state and Pennzoil are manufactured with a high paraffin base crude. When you take a Subaru motor apart after having used either oil, the aluminum inside is coated in a golden slime. It looks much like a frying pan that has had lard overheated in it.
This paraffin base oil will clog and plug the small passages that control the variable cam timing, setting check engine lights and engine misfires. The bottom line is these cheap oils cost in the long run.
Constantine settled it.......5W30 it is.......not that I had planned on changing anyway.......
What ever oil brand you choose is probably irrelevant. Nothing in a Model T requires anything designed for ultra high temperatures or pressures. The engine and transmission are both generously overdesigned and under stressed for 20 horsepower.
One type of oil to avoid is any non detergent oil. Non detergent oil is a poor choice for anything. I would not use it in my lawn mower. If you have ever disassembled an engine that was operated with non detergent oil you already get it. If you don't, you will.
I have had people I respect swear by 5w-30. Same for 20w-50. So thus the range of acceptability is framed for me. Knowing this, I tried them all and found my T leaks out the lightest oil. Runs fine on the heaviest. Soooo, I use whatever is on sale, store brand, and stick with 10w-40 or higher. Never mind if several viscosities get mixed in together.
I drive it a lot and change oil often.
I like Rotella 15-40 in everything i owne execpt the T's and to start i stand in front of our's.Bud.
Just like oil filters, tires, colors, body style, food, garages, houses, roads, views, women, living location, temperature, and seasons among many many more things, your opinion will vary.
I have been a "get the weight I want of whatever oil is cheapest or on sale" for quite a number of years now. I put a decent filter on though for the daily drivers. It has worked well for me and as long as I keep it changed, there shouldn't be any issues.
I have been slowly going to synthetics however. I do believe there is value to that in a regularly driven vehicle--but not sure about in a T---yet. I may change my mind
Your opinion may vary and we may agree to disagree.
Amen to what Royce stated.
My dad had his engine rebuilt in 1976 and the rebuilder admonished him to run ONLY non-detergent oil. Dad changed oil religiously every 6 months and put a total of 8000 miles on the engine. Several years ago, He burned a rod bearing on the Johnson City National tour. We drained about 3 quarts of oil out, I pulled the inspection plate and found the engine full of material that resembled pudding.
I use NAPA 15W40 fleet oil in My 1911 T.The API rating is Sl.The API SM does not have Zink in it.
Zink needs to be in oil for older engines. The oil
companys took the ZINK out of the oil because of the catalytic converters in modern vehicles.
I use PENNZOIL in my pick up and my wife,s SUV.
I used to use Quaker State.Quaker State was bought out by some big oil company years ago and the formula was changed.It has a high paraffin base now.
Quaker-Penn, as in Pennzoil, is the owner of QuakerState.
A model T does not need zink. Most engines built in the forties and earlier do not need zink.
NAPA oil is Valvoline.
The high quantity of zink is needed in flat tappet engines that have extremely high valve spring pressure. Since '88 they all have gone to roller tappets, or over head cams, or both.
There is no reason to use non-detergent oil, except to purposely let your engine build up sludge.
Seeing as one of oil's major functions is cooling i wonder if 5-30 has better cooling than sae-30??Bud.
Thanks Constantine -
I will not let 5-30 oil in my home because I want to keep my wife.
I have looked on the computer and have not seen where NAPA oil is VALVOLINE.
I have had two MODEL T'S that I have driven and shown nationally since 1967.
The first was a 1923 TOURING that we got in 1967.
I used Quaker State oil in it.One day it threw a rod.When I opened the engine,it was full of pudding
like SCOTT said.
I started using NAPA 15-40 at that time.
In 1997 FORD MOTOR CO. bought the car to be used at GREENFIELD VILLAGE.
WE purchased our 1911 touring in 1997. we restored it from the ground up.
We used NAPA 1540 oil.The rear main went out because I did not line bore it right two years later. When I opended the engine,it was clean inside.
A few years later it threw a rod. When I opened
the engine it was clean.I have no idea why it threw a rod.
At present we are on our 4th set of tires, almost
ready for the 5th set.
We are leaving for Boone N.C. for the NATIONAL MTFCI TOUR tomorrow morning.
I still like NAPA-15-40 fleet oil
For my T's it is Shell Rotella T 15W40. Too hot here in Texas for anything else.