I have the Ruckstell Video and the Book and they both explain in detail about the bolts for the ring gear being a hardened steel and special bolts with the holes for tie wires..... I probably know or should know the answer I am about to receive but I just have to ask because the ones that were in the Ruckstell when I took it apart had no holes for wires and used lock washers....Did they change this procedure on later models or did someone along the way screw up and now I need to buy a new set of bolts?....I should have had all this done by now but I keep traveling with my grandson all over this country with his Hockey Team....Not a complaint...just would like to get the T back going again....Chet
All the ones I have seen on Ruckstells or on regular T rear axles had the holes and wire. The problem with lock washers is that sometimes the bolts can back out even with lock washers and if the bolt comes out you will never know it until the bolt falls out completely and gets caught in the mechanism. The wires should be placed in the direction that if the bolt were to loosen, it would be against the pull of the wire. That is the wire is placed in the position that it would tend to pull the bolt tighter rather than looser.
If the bolts have good threads, me I would cross drill the head for the wiring. You may need to shorten them a bit for clearance for the pinion gear teeth. Not a big deal but others may, will disagree. LOL
I noticed a few things in the photo of the assembly you have on your work bench. First, the bolt through the ring gear has no visible identification stampings on the head. This is usually a sign of a standard grade "soft" bolt. Before cross-drilling these bolts, verify they are of at least "grade 5" or better. The other item is that the thrust ball bearing seems to be installed backwards! It is Directional!! I might be wrong on both of these points but it certainly would be worth checking before final assembly. Good luck with your project!!!
William, actually I thought the same thing and installed it the other way until I looked in the Ruckstell book and it looked like it was installed this way....I agree with you that the oil would get to the bearings quicker if I turned it back around....The bolt heads don't have any markings on them that I see....don't they have raised markings on them (3 or 5) according to their hardness....Thank you all for the inputs....Chet
William Bennet is right, I believe your ball bearing is backwards.
The bearing orientation is not about lubrication. that is a thrust bearing and it MUST be installed the correct may or it simply will not work. The races are kind of cone shaped and it must be installed so the the balls are being compressed between the races. The inner race pushes out from the center to the outer race on the housing. The orientation in the photo is backwards.
About the bolts, others with much experience have recommended never using anything other then the Ruckstell bolts for the ring gear. Grade 8 may be strong enough but you probably could not drill them.
Do not use anything but the correct Ruckstell bolts. They have a step in them about half way on the non-threaded part of the stem. They have thicker heads and are drilled. Even grade 8 bolts are not sufficient for the shear stress they take during braking. Genuine Ruckstell bolts are specially hardened. A set is about $50. Money well spent. They are to be installed with hardened flat washers and safety wired. Do not use lock washers as the bolts are too hard for the standard lock washer to dig into to keep them from coming loose.
Here is how I tighten them. Install all bolts. Go around and around the bolts with a long pattern 1/2 box end wrench and a 2 pound hammer. Smack the end of the wrench with the hammer until it rings the same on every bolt. I don't use an impact or a torque wrench although I suppose you could.
Do NOT use standard bolts.
The thick side of the center section of the ball bearing goes toward the housing. It has to be the thrust type bearing or it will not hold the thrust of the ring and pinion and will fail. The correct number is a 7212 BCBY or BECBY.
I am so glad I put these pictures on here....There is so much info that comes from this forum....I had rather know now then regret asking later....Thanks to you all....I have spent so much already on this rebuild that another $70 won't kill me for new bolts...Well, Pat may....Thanks Chet
Thanks Stan, I knew you had posted about the bolts before but could not find the post.
Chet, listen to Stan, he has rebuilt hundred(s) of these.
Stan, I must have been posting about the same time you were. The bearing is a FAG 7212 B-JP made in Germany. Hope this is the right one...Or will at least work......Chet
Stan, after you have looked at both sides of the bearing and the number I have, will it work in your opinion, and do I need to turn it around?....I hate to ask again but I read your post and I want to make sure when you say the thick side of the center section (which is the side with the numbers on it)goes toward the housing, is the housing the bronze plate?...That's probably a stupid question but I just want to make sure I got it right providing this bearing will work....I know....dang these new guys and their model T's.....The things I have done to this one.... I have probably taken over 3000 pictures and put in my files so I can repair it again when time comes and hopefully have a little more knowledge than I did before....I was hoping to get it back on the road so I could make some of the tours before summer is gone and would hope to meet some of you....Thanks Chet
Yup. Just FYI, all bearings are in Metric sizes. This one is a 60 (inside) x 110 (outside) x 22 (width) MM. The letter code gives the info as to whether it is angular contact or not.
A lot of times you can find cheap ones by checking for the size instead of the numerical listing.
Also, Jim. Not hundreds. About 70. Last one ready to ship. I just don't have time to do them anymore.
The "smack it with a hammer" is the method used by Lewis Rector, Model T mechanic since 1915, who helped me rebuild my first Ruckstell about 30 years ago. He'd been doing them like that ever since they came out in 22. No air impacts or torque wrenches in those days.
Here is how to tell what race should be loaded with a thrust load.
Jim, this is good information, and you even used my original picture...Thanks for taking your time to explain this.....Another for my collection of information.....I changed the bearing around this morning and will order new bolts today....As you can see the bolts that someone had in their before had no markings on them...Will be a while now before I can do much more on the Ruckstell....I'll start taking the steering column out to try to repair it today........Thanks to you all again....Chet
Listen to what Uncle Stan says! Those bolts are harder than hell, and don't forget to use the hardened washers with them. You can buy a set from Glen Chaffin. Just do it!
To all: Thanks again for the help and advise....I cherish it and appreciate it....And thanks to Dave Dufaut from another post for telling us how to easily search for an answer to a question you may need to know like I do.....I used Dave's method after Jim and Stan took so much time out of their day trying to get me to understand the right way to put a simple Thrust brg in....I read Dave's post on "Repeat Questions" and tried it and had all kinds of information come up about the Ruckstell that has ever been discussed on the forum....Just use Google, type in a question followed by MTFCA and you will have a lot of information, pictures etc.......I still like showing my pictures and asking or discussing my work but I can understand some of you getting tired of answering the same thing over and over....I'll try to do more home work with the search before I ask the same question's that has been answered again and again....not that anyone complained because you all were so helpful...Thanks again Chet
Dave I didn't mean any disrespect in misspelling your name: Dave Dufault, Sorry
Chester, neither the original Ruckstell Bolts or our new ones have any markings on them. That is because they are a special bolt that is not commercially available and thus do not have grade markings on then. They are not soft. They are harder than grade 8. I know, we make them. And yes, they should have a hole for safety wire. If they do not, they are probably standard grade 2 bolts. Replace them.
Chester, Also noticed that you have an early P139 Bronze Plate. That plate is lacking for adequate oil lubrication. I would at least drill the holes provided for oiling larger or add more holes in the recesses around the plate outer diameter. And I agree, the thrust bearing is on backwards. The wide side of the outer race should face the P147 notch Plate and Ruckstell Housing.