I just purchased a 25 or 26 T that motor and trans rebuilt 10 + yrs. ago and not ever started. I got it running and car just wont quite pull itself, forward or back. It does move a bit, like clutch is slipping badly wont hook up. I have adjusted bands 3 times, to the point of being overly tight. The motor has run about 15 minutes, is that long enough for the bands to oil to grip? The bands look like they are cotton? By the way,the car is Canadian # C7277XX Thanks Curt
Curt: If you have one of the Black or tan Ford Service books look at paragraph 315 page83(black book) and do what it says. Becareful and do not loose the cotter pins. Then look at Slipping Clutch page 246 paragraph 1059, 1060, and 1061. It is important that you follow these notes in the book and it will work. Try it and keep every one how it works out. good luck
Make a plexi cover for the tranny, and see what's going on.
I guess it's low and reverse you've tried. Do you have high gear with the handbrake in the forward position and the clutch pedal out? The band's won't affect high, it works through the clutch.
Maybe the hogshead wasn't rebuilt properly - there are cams for the pedals and the pedal shafts forcing the shafts sideways to clamp the drums. With worn out or misfitted cams the band's won't be able to be adjusted right.
The low pedal should be possible to move down to halfway position without moving sideways, just controlling the high speed clutch, then it should clamp the low band in the rest of the movement.
Do the brake pedal work as it should?
Maybe the pinion gear is sheared? Or someone assembled the car with no U - joint? If you can move the parking brake forward and the engine does not stall then there is a fault either with the U joint or something in the rear axle assembly.
Another thought, no keys in the rear axle hubs?
Ralph. Now, THAT is a GREAT idea which I have never seen on the forum or considered myself. Even though my T is running great, I think I will try that, just to see if I can see the inner workings of my transmission. I predict that, because of all the sloshing oil, on the inside of the plexiglass, I won't be able to see much of anything, but it's a cool concept and a novel T. Jim Patrick
Hey Jim, it's been done before. You can see a lot more than you would think.
Scroll down for good pics in the thread.
Does your car have a Ruckstell or Warford? We recently had a car on tour which would not go when the pedal was pressed. It turned out that when he had gotten into the car the shift lever was accidently knocked into the neutral position. Once he shifted it into gear the pedals worked fine. Note a Ruckstell is not supposed to have a neutral, but some people have filed a notch into the mechanism to give it a neutral.
Being that it tries to move, but not much, I'm guessing a sheared axle or pinion key
Hal I think you nailed it. It does sound like maybe the axle key is missing or sheared. Lots of folks remove one of these keys in order to push around a car with a stuck motor.
Curt if you take off the rear wheel axle caps and have someone watch while you try to move forward of backward, and see if the axles might be spinning in the hub.
A lot of good ideas, BUT if the bands have really been tightened 3 times NO T would move!
Another thing to check is your emergency brake. Put you emergency brake all the way forward, Jack up the rear wheels and see if you can hand crank the motor. If you can't hand crank the motor then try the starter. Someone might have put new LIGHNED brake shoes in the car and adjusted them too TIGHT.
Do the emergency brake check ONLY AFTER checking the bands!
Good morning, Thanks to all who offered advise, it turns out there were no keys in rear axle, installed them and working well. Thanks Again, Curt
Curt, I would now make sure that none of the bands are too tight. The pedals should stop about an inch before coming into contact with the floor boards when you push them down firmly.