Hot Starter

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Hot Starter
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 08:10 pm:

What would cause a slow cranking on a charged battery, along with the starter switch, cable and starter getting very hot? Bad ground?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 08:16 pm:

Poor connections for a 'start'. Anytime you have bad connections you have series resistance, which will heat up. First thing I'd do is to take apart each connection one at a time and clean the terminals, lugs etc, then reconnect and make sure that the connection is tight.
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 08:52 pm:

all new starter cable, battery cable, starter switch and starter - so they're all clean. Will check tightness.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 10:24 pm:

Ron - If you're running a 6-v system, the battery cables need to be much larger than 12-v cables. At least size 0, and 00 is better. 12-v ones usually are about 4 gauge.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 10:31 pm:

If you run any starter longer then a few seconds, it will get hot, that is normal. If it takes longer then a few seconds to start the engine, find out why is does not start right up and fix it.

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Friday, July 11, 2014 - 10:39 pm:

Using standard T-cables (from Lang's) and it's 6V. She was on a jerry-rigged distributor and her starter was shot - but I got her going (she is a very hard crank start) and she ran pretty good. Ditched the distributor and went back to standard coil set-up, since then, I cannot get her to fire. Put a rebuilt starter in because I cannot really crank anymore and I need to find out why she's not firing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 09:16 am:

Ron
Hers is my best guess.
1
Ron the Coilman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Todd on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 11:33 am:

"she is a very hard crank start"

Do you that mean the engine is very stiff and hard to turn over? Or just that it just doesn't like to start?
If it' stiff and hard to turn over that can cause or at least add to the starter and etc getting hot.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 11:43 am:

Loosened the bands - way loose. Hard to crank means she is very stiff (especially compared to my others). Engine has not been rebuilt (at least not in the last 40+ years I'd say) - so that's not it. What bugs me is that I could start her with the hand crank (at least a few times) on the Mickey Mouse distributor set up that was on there. Now, with all new wiring, plugs, coils, starter, cabling - I get nothing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert E. (Bob) Blackbourn, Gautier Ms. on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 12:44 pm:

This is my idea of a Hot Starter

Hot Starter


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 02:38 pm:

Lang's sell three different battery cables. Two of them are small diameter, the only one that is good is 0 guage (1/0) heavy 6V cable.
Link to the good one:
http://www.modeltford.com/item/5046BHG.aspx

If you have one of the small diameter battery cables the cable will get hot - not the starter. If the starter is getting hot it likely is the starter causing the problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 02:59 pm:

Will try the HG cable as Royce suggested. Just dropped the order. Starter is brand new rebuild from Lang's.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 03:02 pm:

Both the cable and starter were getting warm Royce. So was the ground - it was really hot.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jon Crane on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 03:53 pm:

Bob
How much for one of those "hot starters" from Langs? don't see them in the catalog..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 04:09 pm:

Have you checked to see that the timing is correct? Which timer did you install and how did you set the timing?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 04:27 pm:

To set the timing...
1. Pull all for plugs,(now it is easier to turn)
2. Turn crank and with thumb on #1 find when it is on compression stroke.
3. With a length of wire find when #1 is at TDC.
4. With plugs connected to the coil box and the timing lever up, turn on the ignition. (Nothing should happen)
5. Crank the engine just a little (4 degrees to be exact) and the plug should buzz. If not, adjust the timing rod to make it buzz.

It is VERY important that the plug not fire BEFORE TDC, it WILL hurt you.

Once the timing is right, turn off the ignition and replace plugs. If the mixture is correct (1 1/4 turns from closed) the engine will run....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 06:25 pm:

Timing is set - just as I've set all of mine (as described above)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By HARRY A DAW on Saturday, July 12, 2014 - 09:59 pm:

Many many years ago my dad taught me that if there is compression, fuel, and ignition that an engine will run. May take some adjusting but it will run. I approach non running engines that way weather a car or a lawn mower.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Todd on Sunday, July 13, 2014 - 10:35 am:

Methinks you have to figure out why the engine is so stiff. If as you say: "Engine has not been rebuilt (at least not in the last 40+ years I'd say)". That suggests that the problem is in the transmission.
How is it if you put the lever forward and jack up a back wheel?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron on Monday, July 14, 2014 - 06:32 am:

No issues when the plugs are pulled - spins fine. Someone suggested using a 12 volt to give the starter more cranking power. There's no generator - only a governor - so no need to change the cutout. Thoughts?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Monday, July 14, 2014 - 09:37 am:

Ron
Try this procedure by Milt Webb to isolate the electrical trouble.
1
It is essentially what Mike Zahorik suggested above you to investigate.
If you have the correct readings provided in this article your trouble lies within the starting motor.
Ron the Coilman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Monday, July 14, 2014 - 09:39 am:

Ron
Try this procedure by Milt Webb to isolate the electrical trouble.

application/pdf
Save-Milt Webb starter.pdf (27.7 k)

It is essentially what Mike Zahorik suggested above you to investigate.
If you have the correct readings provided in this article your trouble lies within the starting motor.
Ron the Coilman


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