OK I have got my 27 coupe running but the clutch wont hold in high gear. I backed the three screws out one full turn and it got worse. So after looking in I think that the spring pushes on the three levers to tighten up on the plates. So after making contact how far do I turn the screws in? Or please set me straight on what Ian doing wrong. Thanks, Scott
Robert, to stop the clutch from slipping you run the screws in further. I would just run the screws back in one turn to bring you back to where you were then go 1/2 turn further. If the clutch still slips go another 1/2 turn until the clutch stops slipping. After the screw adjustment check the clutch pedal linkage adjustment.
You may want to set your adjustment to have a space of 13/16 between the drive plate and clutch collier to start with. Then adjust as needed to get a good grip. This will be +/- a little bit as there is only one slot in the screw. This way you can start from a good base as the three screws may not all be the same now.
Then do as Stephen says, turn the screw in for more grip.
Ok guys, I went out in the darkening skies and did what Stephen said. It is much better. It locks up and then will run away some if I throttle hard. So I will try another half turn in the morning. How far can I turn the screws in? Iam half a turn past flush right now. Thanks, Scott
You may have a week spring. If it is not over a hundred pounds you are likely to continue slipping. m1
Mark's suggestion of 13/16th's is what I used. As long as all 3 have the same distance from the driving plate to clutch collier, you should have no problems. But that's the starting point.
Now, if you have 13/16th's and its still slipping, I'd do it in 1/2 turns till she is locking up and holding.
If, after say a turn and a half and its still slipping, yes, you might have a weak spring as Dave Huson suggests... Or you may choose to continue tightening, but I'd stop if you are running out of threads on the adjustment screws... that's an indication of another problem.
Or it might be worth having a look behind the driving plate. as you may find the source of your problems there.
Hope this helps, but if not, drop me an email and I'll try to help,
A standard Ford 1/2" - 20NF Lug nut makes a perfect Go / No Go adjusting tool for the Model T clutch. They are available at any Ford dealer as P/N C0AZ1012A for about $2.
Or you can buy one at any auto part store under one of the following numbers: 2515600 / 2E3Z1012AA / 413945 / 516637
It is critical to get all the fingers adjusted to the same 13/16" dimension. Uneven adjustment can result in a slipping clutch.
Also be very careful if you have one of the aftermarket Turbo Fail / Jacked Up / Whatever types. These lined clutches have less surface area than a Ford factory clutch, and this makes adjustment and driving style critical. You can burn one of these clutches out in a minute or two if they are misadjusted or abused. They offer no advantage over a factory Ford clutch.
After you finish with the adjustment of the clutch finger screws, please be sure to check and if necessary adjust for free neutral per this procedure:
Robert, you have a little more adjustment but, if you make further adjustments make certain that the cotter pins go through the screws slots, otherwise they can move.
Thanks everyone. All the information is great. I will get back to it tonight. By the way I go by Scott. I dont know how to change my name so robert does not come up. Thanks, Scott
Ok, I just made one more adjustment. The clutch holds now. Was going up hill a bit, pushed the pedal in a bit, let the motor rev a bit and then let the pedal out and it pulled the motor down. So Iam good to go. Thank all of you for the help and pictures. I can now go to town for dinner tomorrow night. Scott
Now that Scott's question is answered, let me hijack his thread. Reference Mark's "Adjusting For a Free Neutral" above, this is also an exercise I'm involved with. At the bottom of page 71 above continuing to the top of the next page; how many of ya'll will agree with that measurement of 1 3/4" of clutch pedal movement when the handbrake lever is pulled back from high speed to neutral? Mine just barely moves forward. I've done the clevis pin ritual as explained in the article
Try adjusting the bolt on the clutch arm. The one that rides on the cross shaft cam.
George, I agree with Mark. Mine moves pretty close the 1 3/4" indicated when I move my lever back to neutral (straight up).
It seems all the referenced measurements need to be close or you have problems. But then when they're right they work very well.
After you get the screws adjusted the same way as it started out, try this before further adjustments are made. Take the clevis pins out of the parking brake rods and put the parking brake lever all the way forward. Then try driving the car. See if it goes into high correctly. If it does, your parking brake rods are adjusted too long. You should be able to put the parking brake lever all the way forward and push the rods all the way back and the clevis pins should go right in without forcing anything. If the rods are too long, it will push the parking brake lever backward and cause the cam on the cross shaft to make contact with the clutch lever on the side of the transmission. This would force the car into neutral whenever you push the clutch into low or neutral, and then you would need to manually force the parking lever forward to get it into high. Anyway, this is a common cause of not being able to get the car into high. If you still have the problem, then turn in the 3 screws 1/2 turn at a time until you get it right. As Dave Huson says, it is also possible that you might need a new spring.
Thanks again Norm et.al. Today is the driving day. Its a '15 depot hack