Along with all my other troubles I have a L4 that is leaking like a sieve. I pulled it off the engine because it had a little leak (whereabouts unknown) and put a seal kit in it. Back on the engine and it leaks like crazy. it will fill a metal coffee can 1/4 in one day! I have since pulled the carb off cleaned everything and it still leaks, though not as bad.
The worst part is the fuel shut off/sediment bowl does not work (does not shut off the fuel). This is driving me nuts.
I bought 4 of Lang's gasket kits. I'm down to 1 1/2
Tips and tricks requested.
Make sure that the gasket/washer for the bowel is on the inside of the bowel.
This one is wrong and will also leak like a sieve:
Paul Mine did the same thing the float was full of gas and would not shut off the needle valve.
G.R, I think that might be my problem I will test it tonight.
It has absolutely been driving me crazy...
You can test a float for leaks by immersing it in very hot water. If you have a leaker you will see bubbles and where your leak is. You can then solder up the leak and retest .
The little tab which adjusts the float level was so weak from bending that the float would rise too far. The float itself adjusted it's own level! Replaced the float and the gasket and fixed. However, with any Model T remember to turn off the gas when you park, because they can start leaking when you least expect.
Sometimes when I have a brass float with fuel in it, I'll use a heat gun. Hold the float with a pliers and heat the float with the heat gun. Not to close because it will melt the solder after a little. Once the float gets hot the fuel will vaporize and you'll see the vapor mist coming out of the float hole(s). Continue until there is no more vapor coming out. The float is now empty. Keep track of where the hole is so you can solder it closed. Again use the heat gun to soften the solder near the hole, add additional solder only there is not enough original solder around the hole. Use thin wire solder (electronics stuff). You do not want the float to get heavy. Once the hole is closed. Test the float in water and look for bubbles.
I made a gauge for setting the float level or you can use a drill bit, it's 7/16" for the Kingstons and 1/4" for the NH.
Hope this helps,
I drill a small hole in the top. After I shake out as much gas that will come out, I sit the float on a light bulb just long enough to heat up to clear the remaining gas out. Caution the float will be hot! I then solder the hole closed and find the leaks and repair. As long as there is any gas left in the float the vapor will try and blow any solder you try to put on out as you fix it.
I like the light bulb idea. Suspect that it has to be a 100w incandescent bulb and not one of the new squiggly kind.
Mike incandescent yes but 65 watts is plenty I have actually used a 150 on one that wasn't leaking to try to remove a small dent in the float it wasn't leaking when I started the dent did come out then I spent the 20 minutes fixing the leaks I made!
I have been using a 60 but 40 should work.