Does anyone know the outside diameter of the hubs off a 25 T?
I have them and I could and have measured mine but they are a bit worn and rusty so if someone has the exact number that would be great.
I got about 2 3/16 by an eyeball measurement for the rear. I have not taken off the front wheels just yet.
Thanks again everyone!
The outside diameter of both the front and rear hubs are the same as far as where the spokes press up against the hub. A rear wheel can be pressed off a rear hub and pressed back onto a front hub.
While the size of the flange on the wheels increased from 5 1/2 to 6 inches and the thickness and length of the spokes varies with time, manufacture, size of wheel (demountable or balloon), the hub size where the spokes fit remained the same. The front hub was made a little wider with the introduction of the roller bearings. But either hub will fit a wheel.
Unless you have a whole lot of rust -- the hubs should be fine. I measured one of mine and I realized I have forgotten how to read a vernier caliper. But I think it measured 2 15/64 which is about what yours was measuring. If the spokes are tight and in good shape -- that is all you need to be concerned with. The demountable wheels have the spokes pressed onto the hub and the dimensions are not as critical as say those on the bearings of the engine crankshaft etc.
Let folks know what you are thinking about doing, and they can provide you with some better recommendations. I.e. if you want to rebuild the wheels -- spokes are available from the vendors as well as some other suppliers.
For a short primer on spokes and rims please see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/92314.html?1242971377
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The regular parts dealers are great for other things, but if you need spokes you'll get top quality a lot cheaper from a specialist like Stutzman.
Perfect, thank you.
Actually I just bought a set of 5 21" wire wheels from the early Model A.
I want to put disk breaks on the rear. I have a list of cars with a 5x5 1/2 lug pattern (the Model A wheels I have now). What I'm thinking I want to do is buy rotors for one of those cars and drill holes to mount that rotor to my hub and then mount the new wheels to the rotor.
I want to get a rotor that is going to be tight to my hub if I can. I know it's going to have 5 bolts in both directions but if it were tight around the center then it'd be even better.
One other question; I've been looking at my hub as it presses on over the tapered axle, it actually goes all the way to the axle carrier. Is it supposed to rub there?
I've attached a picture. There are those two raised circles on the back. Those are what I'm talking about rubbing. The inner one looks like it touches but the otter is not.
Sorry, I should have done my own research before I asked that last question.
Correct me if I'm wrong here please. But if those raised circles in the hub are beginning to touch then my hub or axle is worn and I need to shim it. I have already added shims to my next batch of parts from Lang's.
Thanks for the help
You are correct, the hub should not be rubbing and yes the axle shims will probably correct that.
For the rear disk brakes you may want to look at those that others have already engineered and tested to bounce some of your ideas off of. For example Texas T-Parts at: http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TTP&Product_C ode=T2565-SS&Category_Code= has a kit (not within my current budget and at the speeds I drive -- probably will not go to the top of my list anytime soon.) But it has been tested by many folks. And it has installation information on that same page. You can also Google/search the forum for additional postings.
Note also that if you have the safety hub bearings installed on your rear wheels, the installation of the rear hub – brake drum may be different -- depending on the setup.
Good luck with your T project.
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