Placed plugs on head and they fire #1 2 3rd cylinder #4
no #3 plug last cylinder fire. # 1 fires when#3 plug in last cylinder should fire. Have I confused everyone. The order seems to be 1243. No #3 fire, #1 fires when no#3 should fire. dave
Mag or distributor?
You have me confused, 1243 is the CORRECT firing order.
1, 2, 4, 3 is the correct order. First, check your wiring and be sure everything is connected in the right place. Here's the correct wiring for the timer.
You didn't say whether this is a starter or non-starter car, so here are both systems.
After you're sure everything is connected correctly, check your spark again. If one wire is dead, switch its coil with one of the other coils. If that changes which one is dead, you know the problem is in the coil. If not, look for a bad connection in the wiring or the timer. You also want to switch the non-firing spark plug with one of the others to see if it's the problem.
Dave - According to your statement, #1 is firing when #3 should fire. If this is so, is #1 firing two times (consecutively)? You make it sound this way in your post (firing 1-2-4-1, 1-2-4-1), but that seems unlikely. More likely is you're simply not firing on #3 (skipping that one) and starting over when #1 fires (firing 1-2-4-_, 1-2-4-_).
Please let us know if that's the case so we can help you further.
Thanks Guys, Just acquired this 20 T and it finally started, after a "few" years of sitting, and ran very rough, smoothed out then quit. The #3 plug doesn't fire and the crank turns 1/2 turn past where 3 should fire and 1 starts to fire. Checked the coil and plug(they work) # 3 is apparently skipping, but the plug is good...!?
Is this a car that you have been running? Is the wiring new or old? Have you been working on a car that is just coming out of storage after a long period of time? This will give us a better idea for what might be going on.
Typing at the same time. Oh well.
Among other things, make sure the insides of your timer are clean. Over time a lot of oily dirt gets in there and causes bad running. Also, check continuity of the lead from #3 post on timer to end of wire at coil box. If all this is good, try swapping the #3 coil for one of the others and see if the problem moves, r not.
Just acquired the car that had been sitting and did get it started. The car has a "starter" and ran very rough after the fuel system was cleaned and a new battery installed. The coil shows continuity, but have not switched it yet. Lots of grease/dirt around the comp (distr). May have to disturb those workings. It did run today and smoothed out after about 5-8 minutes. Then just quit!! Shall try switching the coils and get back to you. Thanks again. You can tell I'm no car guy.
It sounds like you have a or some lose and or dirty wiring connections some where. Have you cleaned ALL wiring connections and made sure there tight. I'm still not clear weather you have a timer and coils or Distributor?
Switched the coil position and that plug does not fire. Must be a bad coil. Is there a way to verify that the coil is bad or has that already happened! dave
If everything is connected where it should be, and all connections are clean and tight, and the problem moves from plug to plug when you switch the positions of the coils, that tells you where your problem is. When there's a coil problem I send mine to Ron Patterson the Coil Man and he makes them good as new. You have a choice. One is to use the MTFCA Electrical System book and fix them yourself. The other is to send them to an expert. I have too much other stuff to do, so I choose my battles. I send mine to an expert who has a lot more experience with coils than I will ever have.
Steve is correct, if you'r budget will allow
have them ALL rebuilt. It will save you a lot of headaches in the future. I like to do as much of the tinkering and fixing my self as I can, but there are some things that a expert is best to work with. Just my 2 cents worth. You will never regret it.
Shall follow up! dave