Well my chassis is nearly put all the way back together guys! I have some questions though. I have a 26 engine i'm running in my 25 chassis. I have a 26 metal coilbox that mounts to the engine. Where and how exactly does it mount? Does it utilize the head bolts so I have to put it on with my head i'm about to torque? Also, I got the standard set of radiator mounting bolts/kit from langs. How exactly does it go together? I wasnt pleased with the pictures i saw in the book and was looking for something more descriptive. Lastly my engine has some issues. I rebuilt it using all original parts. One of the crank locations where the cap and rod meet is slight egged. It was cathing and binding the engine up when I had it on way too tight. I lossened up on it just a bit and it rotated tightly but I could easily turn it over full rotation 3,4,5 times before my arm would tire. Now that I connected the drive shaft today it will no longer turn over. I think my transmission may be in drive and not neutral. the "n" shaped brass clutch piece is very hard to turn to engage other positions. what do you guys think?
Here's a picture of the radiator mount setup for '26 and '27 cars:
Hope this helps.
Box front edge bracket fits under head bolt in front of the water inlet.
Are you referring to the clutch fork inside the transmission?
If I understand this, you say. "one of the crank locations where the cap and rod meet is slightly egged. It was cathing and binding the engine up when I had it on way too tight. I loosened up on it just a bit".
Did you have the crank reground? If not, did you mike the crank to determined if it was egged? If it is egg shaped, you will never get the bearing adjusted right unless you grind the crank so that it is round. Then repour the babbit and cut to fit the crank. You should have a package of shims between the rod and cap and the nuts should be tight and cotter pinned in place. If you just loosen the nuts, you will soon lose the rod bearing and maybe break the rod. To properly loosen the cap you would add one thousandth shim between the rod and cap and then tighten the nuts and place the cotter pin.
If you have a round crank and have shimmed the rod bearing correctly, disregard this message. If not, you need to measure the crank or if you don't know how, have someone who does know help you.
If you install this engine without correctly rebuilding it, you might be in for some unpleasant surprises and end up pulling it out again to do the job right.
Maybe I have misunderstood what you meant when you asked your questions. But you didn't make it quite clear for me to understand.
Thanks for he responses guys. Norman: There are two 1/1000 shims on each side of the rod cap, and members of my club ground down on the cap just a bit so that it would better fit the egged crankshaft shape. It isnt the best solution but the engine was rebuilt with little to no budget. I did however tighten down on the crank way too much. My uncle inspected it and suggested that I simply loosen it by 1/8th of a rotation of the nut. I did this and sure enough it rotated fine after that.
William, yes, I am referring to the clutch fork. I think it's currently engaged in the drive position which is why now that the drive shaft is connected I can no longer turn the crank. The handbrake assembly is not currently hooked up with the extending bolt (plus my hand brake's teeth are so worn it can freely move). It is very hard to make the fork move with a wrench on the outside part. Does anyone know why this may be? Thanks again for all of the responses.
Norm, If I remember right, when we assembled and tightened that one rod, it was way loose on the crank journal. We then sanded the cap down to get a decent fit with just a couple of shims installed. So now, it is more than likely egg shaped on the babbit in that rod.
As Matt said, it was literally a no budget build. Think of it as someone back during the depression era with a bunch of T parts trying to build a car and get it running with only spare change at best.
Matt, I did not realize you had an issue with it, I thought the engine spun by hand pretty easily when we were done with it that day. Loosening it is definitely not the best solution, adding shims and tightening the bolt would be much better.
Matthew - I very carefully read what you said,.....twice. I still don't understand what you meant when you said,....."one of the crank locations where the cap and rod meet is slight egged."
If you mean that one of the crankshaft rod journals is out of round, there is no way to obtain proper clearance. If the clearance for that journal is perfect with the crankshaft in one certain position, the clearance will be imperfect when the crankshaft is rotated 90 degrees. By "imperfect", I mean that the the clearance will be either too tight (causing what you called "binding") or too loose, which will cause a rod knock, sooner or later, when the engine is running. If the crankshaft journal is out of round,....say maybe one thousandth or less, you might be able to obtain a sort of "compromise" clearance by a combination of shimming and/or by what Chad called "sanding the cap", however, any out of round at all will just produce a bad situation that just sort of "feeds on itself", and it is only a matter of time until the babbit bearing wears, or is pounded to the degree that that rod will develop a knock. That's why I said,..."sooner or later". Unfortunately, anything short of perfectly round journals will cause a failure,...."sooner or later". One thousandth or less out of round,.....later. More than a thousandth out of round,......sooner. Kind of a "layman's explanation", but that's how I see it, for what it's worth,......harold
It is definatly a compromise. And not proper. Like I said, he is working with what he has part and dollar wise. He knows it is not optimum, we never assured him it was. I could list other things I remember being not quite right from that day, but getting something running out of nothing for this young lad sure beats spending thousands of dollars he doesn't have over several years without experiencing, owning or driving in my opinion. His passion is T's, but his mind is in getting a good education and hopefully good job later.
But, I think the best solution here--right or wrong, would/could be to add shims and keep the bolt tight as it should be. It is a big compromise, but will get him going for a little bit. Maybe after it runs, he can remove shims and tighten it back up a little---again, just my opinion. It my last just long enough for him to get some seat time and save up and collect parts for a proper build later on--again, my opinion.
Gents, there are times when perhaps a no-build, is better than a no-budget build. Crankshafts can be had for less $100 on eBay right this minute and that includes shipping. Also, having the journals ground and then getting help having Babbitt poured costs very very little. My friend Justin from South Africa has a brilliant set up for line boring at home that he can coach you through (if you ask nicely =). I would suggest taking a deep breath and reconsidering the thought process here. If it means two weeks, a month? Then wait a bit and get $200 together so that you can have a truly functional engine.
All of that to say that I'm all for getting on the road! Just, don't lose sight of the fact that certain corners being cut mean that you may not be on the road for any appreciable length of time. I will donate $50 to the cause if Matt's interested in getting it fixed right.
Could you mean that the babbited parts are egged? That is the block and cap halves of the bearing. If that is what you are referring to, the bearing will be a bit snug when tightened down. On initial running, ie "run in" the babbit will conform that small amount and soon loosen up a bit. An egg shaped crank journal will not "run in" but would soon "pound out" the soft babbit.