Well, I got the deal of the year on this one. I purchased a kingston B-1 manifold for $20.00 and the carb bolted to it was free. You guessed it, the long awaited (by me) Stromberg OF. Here are the images to date of the rebuilding elbow grease that isn't part of the price.
Where will you get the cap that covers the float stem? Seems like every carb I find that has that type of float is missing the cap.
Erich, Nice score, enjoyed your photo link!
Jim, Ask Stan Howe about a cap. Here's his website.
I can steal one from my LF, or buy a new one from Stan Howe. I bet many were just left off, or left finger tight and rattled off, so people could manually jiggle the needle on the seat? As can be seen in the photos, this carb had been a leaker as noted by the many small dents from being wacked with something harder than brass.
What is the best penetrate solvent to use to loosen all those small set screws in the OF? Heat? Solvent?
Great pictures, Erich. Looks like a good project. Let us know how it works.
Jack, there are many options for penitrants. I use kroil, liquid wrench, or home brew 50/50 mix ATF/acetone. Didn't use any heat on this carb. Several of the plug screws did require a better notch to be cut in so the screw driver could bite and hold.
I believe that Stan replaces all the little screw plugs with Allen heads. I would suggest adding a little of the white Permatex thread lock as you install them. I used it on all the threads that were below the fuel level. It is non hardening and seems to hold up to modern gas.
Nice job on the carb and photos. Re the acorn cap, I bought a Studebaker marked Stromberg bowl cover to get mine.
The "bits" that came in/with my screwdriver I use when I take my firearms apart have a better profile than a screwdriver for house hold or automotive work. Waly world had mine and under 10bucks.
Don't throw that manifold out, that crack can be repaired! KGB
Keith, I was wondering about that and how it may best be done.
Jerome, excellent idea for the screwdriver bits. I was going to grind some, but I like your idea better.
Mark, good idea. I was going to get a set of those from Stan if I can't source any around here. Will have to wait for my next days off.
Erich, I take it that you aren't going to use the same old intake? LOL
Terry, I found that kinda funny that someone had tried to use the carb like that on this intake. I guess it would work, but sure puts the fuel bowl close to the heat of the exhaust manifold.
Good score but it won't bolt up to a T manifold. That is the version of the OF that was made for the Overland to replace the original Carter factory carb. Notice that the part number for the casting has been over stamped and a new part number stamped next to it. That's because the flange holes are further apart than the one for the T Ford. Also the throttle arm has had a bend put in it to shorten it up.
I no longer replace the screws with Allen head screws. They worked fine but people didn't like them. I spent a couple hours one day and made 100 new plugs from copper rod that I use if needed. It's soft enough to screw in and hold. I mostly just use the ones that come out. I do not put any goop on anything when I reassemble it. Goop and gas cause problems.
I make those acorn caps by the handful. They are almost always gone or have been whacked so many times they are too time consuming to repair. They are just half inch brass hex, drilled and tapped to 7/16 - 24 and machined to a profile. That is one great thing about the OF, most of the parts are pretty easy to machine.
I use Lyman gun screwdrivers along with some Kline electronic. Most household or auto don't have a profile ground into them, just angled blades that want to slip. I grind the profile back into them after them wear a little and temper them. Some of mine have probably been reground a dozen times or more.
Virtually every throttle shaft and hole is worn off to the side. The pressure on the shaft from the economizer every time the throttle opens and closes wears it egg shaped. Won't idle with that air leak.
Biggest problem with OFs: The idle passage is the lowest point in the carb. So it is the one that is plugged from varnish and old gas crap. If it isn't cleaned and the rest of the passages aren't cleaned with ultrasonic or by being drilled it still won't run right. There are a couple critical gaskets that have to be in place for it to idle correctly, too.
Anyway, good score. If anybody else wants a couple of those bodies that are drilled too wide for Ford manifolds I have several that I bought just for parts.
Talking about carbs. Just did a carb for this 1898 Jeanperrin that is going to the London to Brighton. 37.8 MPH in this after the new carb installed.
I was wondering about that re-stamped number. I hadn't figured it was not T compatible. I wonder if it has been modified to fit T bolt spacing as it was on that old manifold. Will have to check that out. Stan, I like the idea of making copper plug screws. I did repair the throttle arm to full length. Got all the passages de-gunked including the idle passage. I am surprised how little wear is in the throttle shaft on this one. Will be a few more days till I can work more on it. Will post more photos as available. Did just add some images of it as I received it.
Stan, that little car is FAST now. What carb is on that little jem? Do you have a photo of it?
We put a Stromberg OA-1 on it.
Update, Stan was correct about the bolt pattern. I fixed that issue and proceeded. Now the carb is on the car and I need to get it dialed in. Photo link above is updated with more images of the process. The photos tell the story.