I am installing the engine back in my 1914 and wanted to know if there are suppose to be washers under the nuts on the oil pan bolts. Looks like there might be room for them.
I would assume that a purist would use cotter keys to be original as possible. Especially on a brass car like yours. Its your choice.
HOWEVER the vendors sell bolt sets with or without them.
I used lock washers on most of the bolts on my cars which are black era cars.
I don't intend to show them but they are intender to be good drivers.
The blocks do have a nice recess to use lockwashers I do have to admit.
I was planning on using the cotter keys but didn't know if it was also suppose to have washers under the nuts. It looks like the nuts could have washers under them and the cotter key holes would still be in line with the notches in the castle nuts.
I believe that the often seen gap between the cotter pin hole in the bolt and the bottom of the recess in the castle nut is because the gaskets available now are so much thinner than gaskets used when these cars were designed and built. My two cents worth.
I don't think that would be right Bill, thinner gasket would up-set the ball cap fitting.
If it were aircraft you would use one or two flat washers to bring the cotter pin hole down to where it would be functional. A lock washer is not used when using a drilled bolt and cotter pin with a castle nut.
On the late cars Ford dropped the split pins and used lock washers. This was mentioned in the encyclopedia, I remember reading it, so I do that on all engines. The problem with pins is they rarely get tightened whereas with lock washers, it is easy to run around with a couple of 9/16 wrenches before a run.
I have a feeling Ford would have used lock washers from the start of building T's if the practice of using cotter pins wasn't the traditional or accepted thing to do.
As manufacturing practices advanced using cotter pins went by the way side in most cases but not all.
I have yet to find some of the nuts and bolts holding the pan to the engine and transmission cover that didn't need to be tighten down again after the car has been run. The cars I work on are drivers not show cars so I use lock washers. I sure don't want to, nor do my customers want to pay me to, take all the cotter pins out, tighten the nuts, re-line up the holes for the slots and put new ones in. So it's original bolts, the castle nuts and cotter pins for me.