Leaf spring install.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Leaf spring install.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chad Marchees on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 - 09:31 pm:

Being I never done this before, looking for tips. I have to remove my front spring perches and reverse them, as the previous owner installed the backwards. So basically as I will be what amounts to reinstalling the spring, is it difficult to spread them to re-install? I have to do a similar deal on the back as I need to replace one shackle too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 - 10:02 pm:

Chad -- The front is easy. The rear is a bit more trouble, but not bad. Hook up one shackle, then put short pieces of 2x4 between the spring eyes and the rear end housing, and let the car down to put weight on the spring. It'll spread out just right.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 - 11:52 pm:

Are the perches backwards or are the shackles backwards? I am confused.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Saylor, Citrus Heights, Ca on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 12:00 am:

If the front perches are on the wrong side, giving a reverse caster, it might be easier to flip the axle and spindles. Sometimes trying to get those perches out without damage can be troublesome.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 12:15 am:

I'm with John, if the perches are backwards it is easier to switch the spindles and turn the whole axle around. Sometimes he perches are quite hard to remove.



Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 02:48 am:

Always check so the spindle with the LH threads is on the RH side and the RH threads spindle on the LH side, since the bearings tends to lock up and crack the hubs when driving with switched spindles. And Mike, you don't need any 2x4 pieces for the rear spring if you have the wheels off and loosen the perch nuts :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chad Marchees on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 06:14 am:

I did double check that the spindles are on the correct sides.

William, they either swapped the perches side to side, or put they put the axle with the perches already on in backwards---either way, it takes the caster out of the axle.

As far as the perches being tough to get out, are they a interference fit into the axle? or a tapered fit? Or is it that because they have been in there forever that makes them hard to remove. I figured backing the nut off to the end of the threads and a swift hit of a hammer would break them loose. But again, never done any real T related suspension work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 06:55 am:

Hey Chad I think it's more of the "been in there forever" variety. It's worth at least checking because after reading some horror stories on the forum I got all worked up for this epic battle of wills with my perches (was swapping stock axle for a lowered one) and the axle fell off as I removed the nut from the bottom of the perch. It was rather pleasantly anti-climatic.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 07:00 am:

Chad,

The perches are a close tolerance fit, probably .001" originally. With time and rust, they often become near permanent. Best to not mess with them. The easiest thing to do will be to remove the spring clamp to the frame, and simply flip the axle and spring as an assembly. Swapping the spindles is easy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 07:00 am:

There is no front or back to the axle itself, that's why it's unnecessary work to remove perches if y aren't damaged and need to be switched. There's always a big risk to damage them when removing - they seems to sit with some interference fit. Just take off the king pins, loosen the nuts that holes the wishbone and the clamp(s) that holes the spring to the front engine mount and remove the axle, turn it around and reattach the loose parts - no need to even remove the spring shackles if they aren't worn out :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 07:02 am:

Holds, not holes :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 09:04 am:

Roger -- I know about the "loosening the perch nuts" method as well. Uncle Stan showed me that one several years ago. I was trying to keep it simple.

To me, it's much quicker and easier to put the blocks of 2x4 in the mix and use a jack than it is to remove both wheels, remove the cotter pins from the perch nuts, loosen the perch nuts, then after connecting the shackles, tighten the perch nuts, put cotter pins in them, and replace the wheels. ( :-) )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 09:51 am:

Mike, I haven't made high enough stands for the frame, that's why I have to remove the wheels anyway when removing the rear end :-)


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