I believe that the drag link is the cause of the steering issues that I have been experiencing. Not only is it bent, but it's flexes when the front wheels move side to side sitting in the driveway.. I have been unable to secure one locally. Would anyone on the forum have one that they would like to sell? please PM me if you do.Thank you.
What kind of steering issues are you experiencing?
I lost control and rolled my newly restored '26 express delivery and am still sorting out the front end. It seems that Henry was changing a lot of steering parts in 26 and 27 with the wider body, different offset in the frame steering bracket and changes to the drag link length.
The crash was a month ago and I am still sore.
It most likely flexes because it's bent. As I mentioned in another posting, bent drag links are dangerous. However, if all else looks good AND your current drag link is the proper 26/27 style, you should be able to straighten it and be o.k.
I will check, at one time I had a lot of the 26/27 drag links but I don't know what I have now. I am headed for the shop in a few minutes so will look for them.
The car does pretty well for speeds under 30 mph. Over that, it will keep hard to the left for a while, then hard to the right, then straight as an arrow, then I hit a bump in the road that I fight to keep it straight. Once I slow down to below 30 mph, things straighten out and the car drives well. I hope that replacing this part solves the issue.
I have mentioned this numerous times on the forum since I bought the car in 2006, as this problem has plagued me since that time. There isn't anything loose between the steering wheel (other than the gear housing) and the pitman arm, the kingpins and all of the tie-rod balls are tight and have been replaced where needed; the wheel bearings are fine and there isn't any side to size motion when a guy grabs the wheel and tries turning the wheels; and I have replaced the wishbone cap with the Apco and a shim, so that is also tight. The toe-in, camber and caster are all up to specs; the axle is straight (checked when I rebuilt the front end with a plumline) and the frame is straight (measured diagonally and only off by 1/8" from side to side).
The last resort would be to put all new rims and balance the tires and if those don't fix the problem, I don't know what will.
Are you positive that the caster is correct and that the axle to wishbone connection is tight? Not wanting to track straight down the road is symptom of the caster being off.
I talked to Jack yesterday and I guess he didn't pass the message along. Bill Bender has every thing you need.
After talking with Jack and hearing you statment I`m with Jim Thode on this one. I beileve your problem is caster, I have had T's with complete wore out front ends steer straight with caster. Piture this if every thing on your front end is right, you could take your drag link off and the car should steer staight.
I know you checked that, and it's to "specs" but check it again and add some more positive castor. I run alot more than spec on the speedster and love it. steers straight as a arrow. Call me today if you need Bills number.
How did you go about changing the caster? The MTFCA front axle manual does not state what to do to alter the angle of the caster. All it says is that if the caster is not correct then it is most likely due to a bent spring perch eye or radius rod arms.
Several years ago, I did take a two foot carpenter's square to the front axle and it measured out according to specs. I replaced both spring perch bushings and replaced the one on the passenger side with a new one. The perch on the driver's side is rusted in and would not come out.
Jim you take one these babies and a big honkin' pipe and bend that sucker to the right angle.
Are your spring perches situated as depicted in Jim Thode's diagram above? With the little top boss towards the rear of the car?
I don't have the special tool but a good size pipe wrench works good with a long cheater pipe over it for leverage. I thought Ford said to have 7 degrees of caster I usally bend around 10 degrees, too much will make the car hard to steer. Use Jim Thode's dieagram to get you close. aim for having 5-1/2" then drive the car add more if you like.
I agree that the castor can be a problem. It should be positive, that is the bottom of the axle should be front of the top of the axle. See diagram posted above by Jim Thode. Another cause of the same problem pulling hard to one side or the other can be toe in. The front of the tires should be closer together than the back. I like to use a piece of masking tape on the center of the tire tread right at the point where a framing square touches the tire when the other side of the square is flat on the concrete. Then make a vertical mark on the tape. The mark should be straight up and down. Measure the distance at the front of the tires, then push the car to the point the tape is at the rear of the tires and measure again. The front should be closer together than the rear. You can't get the toe in perfect unless you bend something because you can only make the adjustment of the tie rod by one full turn. I have found that if you find the position where the marks are equal in front and in rear, then lengthen the tie rod by the amount it takes to get the bolt in, that it usually will work fine. The reason for the tape and not just measuring to the rims, is the tape will give you exact center where measuring the distance between rims doesn't account for possible crooked rims.
I sent you an email, I hope it went through.