I need to replace the two piece valves in an original, low mileage spare engine I found recently. The original seats are still in very good condition, that is, not burned or cut deeply into the block, in fact it looks like I could probably lap in my new valves successfully. The guides are fairly loose so I would like to use valves with .015 over stems, just to be on the safe side.
Two question I have are, what valves are best for a direct replacement, and where might I find a seat cutter and reamer to do this job? I really want to do this myself, as I have never done it before. Does anyone have a cutter/reamer they would be willing to loan, rent or sell me for this project?
I was looking at a 2009 post that discussed using stainless valves, Chev.350 exhaust valves or Ford 351 valves... I'm confused what might be my best choice. Any and all recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
John, The vendors sell a direct replacement valve. I used them because they are cheap, fit correctly and I like the pressed steel spring retainer and pin thru the valve. The T is splash for oiling and the stock parts are very light. So there is less weight to stop and start. The wear factor comes to mind. 15 million motors times 8 per motor is a lot of valves. Put in new springs and pins while you are there. Scott
if you do a google search with mtfca included you will find enough reading to decide whats best for you. short story, the chevy valves are cheep, even free if you know the local engine rebuilder guys, but they are shorter and need adjustable lifters to make up the short length. the ford 351 windsors are long enough, but cost more and not to be found used unless you are lucky. most folks rant about the nuway cutters to do seats, cheep enough when you only buy the one size you need. i chose to buy the more expencive old wore out seat grinding set that grinds egg shaped seats, and takes up a cubic yard of shop space. think again before you make that choice!
The problem with chevy valves are that they took them out cause the are worn out. The stems have taper and they are now on the thin side. Its a bit of work to change valves as you need to remove the head. With using the stock style you dont have to buy the retainers and locks. So where is the savings? If Iam going to replace parts I dont want someone else,s throw away,s. If they were good why did they junk them?
they throw them out because we are a throw away society, and chevy valves are so common and therefor so cheep that the engine shops do not grind valves when you can buy em new for 3 bucks. you ream the guides, and really, are you gonna out drive dean yoder? if there is any slight wear on the stems, it will not suck oil, make noise, or cause a bad seal for the rest of your life
To get back on track, I think John is looking for the best choice of repair for an engine that will see at most 600 miles a year. He is looking for affordable quality parts without going overboard and wants to know if all vendors sell the same part of if some vendors have a better quality.
Chevy valves are .030 over. Meaning you will use all your oversize and not have any left for the next guy and in 30 or 40 years, and no telling what they will charge him for a set of guides if he can find a shop to do it. I would try a new standard valve, you might be surprised at the fit. If the motor will set unused, a little lose is better that tight and sticking. Just my 2 cents.
bill, didnt seem that we got off track to me, but back to my original suggestion, google it and it will bring up more info than you need to make the right choice, i just did it last winter when did two blocks for my self. one had bad seats and needed the ford valves, the other got free chevy valves from my friend who throws them away every day. the nuway cutter is the way to go if you want to do it yourself, and have more than one project, and your not going to take the motor out of the car
I have the SS valves Lang's sells in all of my T drivers. While I am no Dean Yoder I drive most of my 3 running T's somewhere between 500 to 1000 miles a year. I do have a Neway seat cutter and I have not had to replace or regrind any valves, ever. One block was good enough to install standard sized valves in but the others needed .015 oversized stems. YMMV
Paul, It was your '09 post that was the genesis of my question. In your post, you seemed to have the same observations I have with the block I'm working on at this time, but I was not sure what valves you chose for your project, and why. Now I know.
As Bill pointed out, This is not an engine I intend on using as a regular driver, but one that I would like to freshen up and use for parades, etc.
Clayton, I spent a couple of hours researching the prior posts, but most discussions did not address the Question I was asking, ie., What is the best valve for an engine that shows very little wear, but needs the two piece valves replaced?
Perhaps I should have explained that the engine I found appears to have very low mileage, in fact the cylinder bores are standard + about .0025 to.0035 with virtually no taper or ovality, so I intend to do a light hone and replace with Aluminum pistons. The valve guides are showing about .316+ intake, and .3165+ exhaust. So maybe I can live without an oversize valve stem. Any way, I think I have my answers and will proceed.
Thank you all for your help.
If your engine is that good you could probably lap in new valves and be done with it even the guides are a tad loose.
If you ream the guides you will HAVE to grind the seats and you can't ream the guides without pulling the engine forward so........?
By the way, I too have SS valves with modern keepers from Lang's.
And whatever you do valve-wise put in new springs.
If no one in your area has the reamers, pilots and cutters contact me off forum at paulmikeskaatyahoodotcom and as long as you will return them in a timely manner I will loan them to you. I have lent them to regular forum posters in the past and have never been burned.
My plan is to replace the valves, springs, spring retainers, and install adjustable lifters and aluminum pistons.
The engine is a spare, complete Feb.'16, engine I picked up a couple of years ago, so it is out of the car.
I was delighted to discover that it has a very nice tight transmission, with gears that show little wear, but had a broken reverse drum caused by a casting defect where the iron didn't flow completely in the web area. I'm thinking this may have been why the car wasn't driven much.
The engine came with an aluminum hogshead that has nice tight pedal shafts and clutch linkage with a brand new looking clutch finger. I have a rebuilt coil from Wally and will recharge the magnets before assembly.
I figure this engine is just too nice not to use.
Thanks again for all the advice!
Paul, I just sent you a PM.