Dropped the rear end out yesterday, and as soon as the spring cleared the rear crossmember, the entire spring (STILL ATTACHED TO PERCHES AND SHACKLES) fell flat over the differential case.
Is this OK that the spring perches allow this forward and back movement of the spring?
Also, are the rear radius rods made in LEFTS and RIGHTS or can they be used on any side. I want to powder coat the chassis members, but will have to mark them if they must go back from where they came. Thanks!
No, the spring perches should be bolted tight through the back plates.
There is a left and right radius rod for the rear. You can tell which is which by looking at the seam. The seam should be on the bottom when mounted. This keeps any moisture from accumulating in the rods as well as having an aesthetic value. (Looks solid from the top.)
No. The perches should be tight and cotter pinned. When you install the spring, loosen the perches so they're close enough to the spring to let you easily put in the shackles, then tighten the perches and pin them.
Especially if a T is likely to encounter freezing weather, radius rods should be installed with the seams down. If they're up, water can collect inside with unfortunate results.
There's an echo in here. Ken types faster than I do.
The radius rods before 1922 had no visible seams, so those are the same for either side.
When you do get ready to tighten them put the rear axle up on stands with the body weight on it so that the shackles will be in their normal operating position, then tighten very tight and put in the cotter pins.
Again, thanks guys for the advice. The car is a 1914, so I'll check for a seam in the rods
Good idea. The parts don't always match the car. That freeze-expanded rod in the picture was on a 1915.