Today I spend most of the afternoon working on my improved '26 doctor's coupe and have a few questions. 1st I know what I'm asking is not what Henry did, but what are your thoughts about using lock washers when I replace the pan? Also I noticed that who ever installed the pan used some sort of liquid gasket to hold the regular gasket in place, is this necessary or con I skip this?
Happy motoring,
Dr. Warren
" I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night, but I do drive a 1926 Model T Ford Coupe"
Warren, it's not necessary but I sure find it handy using a liquid gasket to hold the actual gasket in place. It also acts as an additional sealant. I have been doing it for many years on many cars with only positive results.
Warren,
No need for lockwashers. These bolts are not going to loosen themselves.
I've used The Right Stuff on this gasket with good results. Almost any kind of quality brand gasket sealant will do the job. I would not install it dry. Clean the nut rings and the bolts of any oil residue before assembly. Then put a dab of gasket goo on the threads of each bolt. That way the oil won't leak through the threaded areas.
Just what are you trying to show with the out of focus photos?????
In addition to sealant, I wrap cotton string around the bolts (under the bolt head) before tightening, an old backyard mechanic trick.
I don't think I'm the only one who does this.
Thanks for all the help. Royce, just remember ""it doesn't matter who's in Austin, Bob Wills is still the King"
Happy motoring,
Dr. Warren
" I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night, but I do drive a 1926 Model T Ford Coupe"
I use copper washers, available from mcmasters in bags of 50 . They work fine, don't use lock washers, they WILL leak. I usually only put gasket goop on the pan and not on the cover, makes it easier to remove.
Is it just my imagination, or has the first piston in the first photo seem that the lower rod cap nut has backed out? Sure looks like it to me.
Looks like a backed out bolt. What cranks our you folks using ? Cause I have plenty of stock cranks and rods and camshafts originals
I would go to
a hardware store and buy some 3/8" lock washers.
If I remember correctly Ford started using lock washers on the pan bolts in 25. If that's correct lock washers would be correct for the purists.
I would tighten up that backed off bolt and install a cotter pin.
Warren, DO NOT put the cover back on till you check all of your rod nuts/bolts...better safe than sorry.
Use of lock washers will allow seeping of oil pass the split of those washers.
If you want non stock, just go to the auto parts store and buy modern pan washers that have the wide collar. Or do as Erik posted, wrap string around the bolt threads prior to install. I wipe some silicone on the string too for extra seepage stoppage.
I don't use a gasket on the pan or valve cover and don't get leaks. I use the small flat washers from the vendors that has the rubber seal built in. This prevents oil seepage. I do use lock washers but it isn't req'd.
The important thing is to make sure the surface is super free of oil. Use either the Right Stuff like Royce suggested OR Ultra Black which is also made by permatex and has a longer cure time and seals, I think, just as good and cheaper too. Yes, coat the threads of the clean bolts before you install, All the black RTV silicone stuff is Not the Same!
Wear some gloves to keep0 the black stuff off your hands. It's sort of hard to remove. Use a solvent to Clean the surfaces!
Good Luck
I don't see wire on the flywheel magnet bolts? If they are properly tight, that is usually okay, though not recommended. If loose? I would try to tighten them and see.
In all the advice to buy cars already done, I rarely see mention of how much do you check and redo on a car that is already done? At some point, you need to just drive and enjoy it!
Have you found and corrected the silly steering yet? That one would worry me.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I used standard lock washers on my 24 Coupe and 21 Touring. No leaks on the pan bolts of my cars. I used new gaskets and sealant on the bottom of the pan and transmission gaskets. Maybe the sealant stops any leaks.
I always flatten out the pan bolt hole areas to get a good flat surface for the gaskets to adhere to.
So far so good.
I wonder if we are not talking two different things here when it comes to lockwashers. I can see lockwashers added to the bolts that hold the pan to the engine block. I'm thinking that lockwashers added to the bolts that hold the inspection cover (Dipper tray) to the pan could easily result in an oil leak.
Thanks again to everyone for your helpful suggestion. I am new to working on a T, although I have owned a '17 for the past five years and have always relied on my good friend Dick Welch to maintain it for me, so all's I had to do was enjoy driving it. Now with my '26 I want to try doing some of the work myself. I still feel it is better to have an expert do it right the first time (I had a friend at work that always said "we ain't got time to do right, but we have the time to do it over" and I would very much like to "do it right the first time". I have some friends (club members) Bill and Lenny that I hope will stop by later today to advise me as to what needs doing and what is already okay?
Hope everyone is out driving about in their Model Ts, as I hope to be doing very shortly,
Warren
use grease to hold your gasket on. The deal with sillycon or a 3M liquid gasket is excess could squeeze into the engine as parts are tightened plus it will be harder to remove gaskets if you ever open the engine again.
I use Permatex 2. No lock washers.
Warren, have you checked your rod cap nuts yet???? Not sure if you have seen the posts regarding them, as i have not heard you mention them. look at the first piston in the first photo, you definitely need to address a rod nut which appears to be backing off.
Looks more like a drop of black oil on the nut.
Frank, it could very well be, but it doesn't hurt to check while he has the cover off.
John, Frank is correct, it is oil. I apologize for the poor picture quality. I am using a Nikon COOLPIX Wide 5xZoom camera, which needs sharp horizontal and vertical lines to focus and after 74 winters (Indian years as a way of dating myself) laying on my back under the T it doesn't leave much room to see what the camera sees. I hope to get back out in the garage to work on Seabiscuit today and will keep those interested posted on what going on.
Happy motoring,
Dr. Warren
PS: I think that my new T's engine looks rather good and is clean as a whistle