The other thread about what we did today was getting pretty long, so I thought it was time to start another, since some folks have difficulty opening long threads.
So here's what i did today:
I painted this body last week and have been waiting for two friends to come over at the same time to help me put it on the chassis. We did that this morning, and one of the guys stayed a couple more hours and helped me bolt the body to the chassis and the turtle to the body. It was more than I had hoped to achieve today, and it was much easier bolting everything together having some help. I bought the fellow a late lunch, then, mission accomplished, I came home and took a nap.
Wow, looks great, Mike!
I wasn't quite as ambitious as Mike today - I did take my 1924 touring / pickup conversion for a 15 mile drive, then cleaned, blasted, and painted an engine support truss that I bought on T-bay a while back:
Wow Mike - looking great ! I've got a '25 Runabout in the rafters that was supposed to be a retirement project - how about coming to Washington for a stay and make mine look like that ?
Good for you! I hope you are back on the road with your new T soon.
It's the 9th here in Australia.
This morning I convinced my wife to come for her 1st ride.
Paul -- What a difference a day makes! I've been staring at that bare chassis for a long time, wondering whether I'd have a car on the road for our club's next tour -- first the Summer one, now the Fall Tour in late October. Now I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I have had to borrow T's from friends for our two past club tours. It'll be great to be driving one of my own again.
Looking fantastic Mike, you're rounding third base headed for home
Removed the last stubborn bushing from the front spring perch. After a rough day of work, that was enough therapy for me. Dinner and T.V. sounded better.
Chad, there is a fine line between having fun working on your T, and having it bust your chops, seems you found the perfect balance..I do the exact same thing when frustrated, call it a day and unwind, the car will still be there tomorrow.
Just finished the rear of the top for the 1922 "woody". Finished the top part a few days ago.
8/9 Update - I installed the engine support truss this morning. After fumbling around, I finally figured out that I had to remove the floorboards and install the frame hooks from above, I could not fish them in from below. Although the truss looks symmetrical, it seemed to fit better turned around one way versus the other, probably because it had taken a set from being installed on one or more cars in its long past. I tightened the nuts just enough to make things snug without taking the main load off of the stock mount ears.
Nice work, I use this type too on all the non-Improved T's
Just a note, a second nut under the bracket will provide lock, to assure the threaded rod won't scrub and wear off the threads when Lizzie shakes her motor. These brackets came with 4 hex nuts.
Thanks, Dan. My T-bay find only came with two nuts, but I'll get two more and install them per your picture.
Today I added the rear fenders, hood, hood latches, and aftermarket spare tire carrier. The body is now complete, except for the upholstery and top. I picked up the kits for those from Elizabeth at Chickasha last March. The windshield is at the glass shop getting new glass installed. Those things and a little wiring, and the car will be roadworthy.
Boy Mike, you're in the home stretch now, great!
Do you plan to paint those wood blocks on the running boards black so that they blend in better?
Question for the experts - should there be a wood block between the rear of the front fender and the running board, or just a washer?
Chased a weird problem with my barn fresh 1912 touring.
The issue was popping back through the carb under heavy acceleration. Idle was ok and normal driving was smooth, but pull the ears down and it acted like it was running to lean. Richen' up the mixture and it bogged the motor down.
I have tru-fire ignition and I figured it was that system. I checked the coil box and all connections including the timer, and battery and all was spot on.
I have an extra tru-fire system for my torpedo and I swapped the boxes, no change. I blew out the fuel line, replaced the carb and manifold, same result.
Still scratching my head, plug wires, brass contacts inside the coil box, nothing out of line there. I shorted out each spark plug and the idle dropped down as it should.
Sitting in the shop with the motor running under heavy accel it popped back thru the intake of the carb, again as if it was running lean.
Finally I decided to change 1 spark plug at a time. I removed #1 and it was sooted and a bit oily. I replaced it with a new old stock Red Chief plug. Started the motor and it was smooth as silk reved it up no popping full accel.
Took it out hit the road and lots of power and no popping just steady smooth accel all the way up. Drove to my test hill and was able to attain my regular speed and power with no popping. The offending plug was an new Autolite. Time will tell if that cylinder has an issue or was it the spark plug. Drove the T down to the hardware store and back about 15 miles and all's well.
I had a similar missing problem using new autolite plugs, and replaced them with original Champion X plugs, problem solved.
I have one which has been missing from time to time for years. Hadn't figured out just what was causing the trouble. Well, about two weeks ago I pulled the engine to have some machine work done on it and looked at the magneto coil. Some of the copper on the connections between the coils looks like it has been polished. I think it is a little high and the magnets have been polishing it. That would make the current fluctuate whenever that magnet made contact with the copper. I will try pushing the copper in just a bit and check out with a straight edge to be sure it is not closer to the magnets than the poles. Maybe that is my problem.
Mike, you have a beautiful 22. It is coming along very nicely.
Today i added an external oil line to the T, i opened up that puny hole in the aftermarket unit and was quite surprised how much oil actually came out, it filled the bottom of a water bottle about an inch in less than 30 seconds at moderate throttle.
Also took off the air cleaner i had on there and put the old trusty hot air pipe back on and what a difference that made! I used to have an annoying hesitation when initially giving it some throttle, this seems to have cleared that right up.
Mark -- A friend brought me those thinner blocks, so I installed them today. The ones I had in there were 5/8" and these are 3/8," so I liked them better. I intend to take an artist's brush and some black paint and make them disappear. Details, details.
John -- I like your idea about opening up that oil intake. I think I'll try that. Thanks for posting that thought.
Mike - great job!
Uncle Mike,you keep messing around and you're going to have a sweet ride there.
Mike, i was very skeptical about the amount of oil that could be slung into that small hole on top of the hogs head. Apparently it seems that its a pretty turbulent place for oil beneath the cover, and the oil definitely gets there and now does double duty.
Installed my Fun Projects voltmeter! With handy dandy on/off switch. Eliza is getting more refined all the time.
Just need a sweet brass speedo in the middle to really make it look nice. Going to get a dash light and install it on the backside of the dash.
I put about 50 miles on my 1915 running around today. During the trip it started making AWFUL noises popping out through the carb and running like it had only 2 cylinders.
I pulled over, left it running, popped the hood and started shorting plugs. 1 and 2 weren't firing.
Scratching my head I noticed my firewall mounted coil box had the lid all cock-eyed. Took it off and problem solved! It was shorting out the coils to 1 and 2.
Am I a genius or what??!! ?
Came home and rebuilt and reinstalled the window regulator on my Model A.
Finished the install of the Pancake Hassler fronts.
swivel around the perch, and mount coil on spring, and bracket on perch
wood wedge and a c-clamp helped to pull the perch holes in line for the shackles
some spray black enamel and now all good to go. Made a short test run and rides smooth
Dan those pancake Hasslers look great! It looks like they didn't really change the ride height of the car at all, and if anything maybe lowered it a smidge?
Dan how difficult was it to "swivel around the perch" ?
I bought a pair of '23 CA plates at an antique shop for VERY cheap!
Also picked up 4 Hawaiian shirts!
We're visiting my Brother, so "new territory" for shopping!
Was easy to swivel a new reproduction perch, had already restored that axle, so the perches were new. Now on an old axle, ugh...getting out stuck perches is not my fun for a day
Dan I was going to ask what the rears look like but I googled first and found a post about rear pancake Hassler installation by none other than you! Lol, I was wondering how they would work, makes sense that they get their own custom perch. Have you been wanting to get these front Hasslers on since August of 2012? What is it about August in the even years that makes you work on your suspension? =P
Ha. Yep. Didn't do the front at the time of the rears. Reason really was the car once shimmied with the front ones, so removed them. Still had some only occasional shimmy then afterward.
Then got a replacement axle and that seemed to fix the shimmy. Time passed until I wanted the front Hasslers to go back on. But meanwhile searched for a replacement right Pancake front bracket, as the old one was bent. That and the bent axle must have caused the shimmy.
Now all is well with the front end and the Pancakes are working fine.
former axle on the T, just enough off to sometimes create a bit of slow speed wiggle.
Thank you for your reply Dan. I suspected it would be difficult.
I got real energetic today and organized the school bus (parts warehouse) Now its easier to find stuff.
I would like to congratulate Mike on a beautiful job. I know the feeling; been there done that. What year is it? Today, I spent assembling NOS axle sleeves and bearings to a Ruckstell I'm putting together. It is so nice to be able to go to a shelf and get all the parts I needed to do the job today. It pays to buy this stuff when you see it! I have all NOS parts for the drive shaft too, including the babbit front bushing which has a Ford script too. More of the same tomorrow.
Mike, looking good. I think you will make it by the fall tour.
Larry -- Thanks a lot for the congratulations. It means a lot coming from you. Thanks to Donnie as well. Yes, I plan to have it on the Club tour this fall in Harrison.
The car is titled as a '21 and is a very late '21, or maybe very early '22. It's the chassis which was underneath the green Delivery with the original Hercules body I restored a couple of years ago. It is an original non-starter bare chassis (later electrified), with an engine assembly date two days before the '22 model year began. After the restoration, I drove it on a few tours and didn't like how heavy it was, so I removed the body and sold it. I had the Runabout body and turtle "in stock," so putting those on the finished chassis seemed like the thing to do. I haven't had a Runabout before, but I think I'm really gonna' like it!
I got the wiring all put back together yesterday and started the engine for the first time in quite a while. I let it run for half an hour or so and got the "new" Simmons carb and TW timer dialed in, so it's ready to go. Today I plan to get the brake lines hooked up and go for a spin.
Well, I took that spin today and it was wonderful! There is a world of difference between driving a T with a 400+ pound body and one with an 80-lb. body. (Also no windshield or top to catch the wind.)
Someone said in another thread recently that 50 lbs. makes a difference when you have only 20 horsepower. A few hundred lbs. does too!
I put a Stan Howe rebuilt Stromberg on my 1915 stem winder and after a while got it "tuned in".
I sure like it!
In regard to your Hassler installation: you show how you have rotated the spring perches to allow the Hasslers to mount. I thought that the perches had to be actually removed and then swapped to each other side so as to not "lose" the correct caster of the axle. Simply spinning the perch will tip the axle backward and make handling dicey at best and at worst put your car in the ditch.
Please be safe and good luck with your project. Bill
What a difference a week makes! A couple of times a year I am in Mikes neighborhood and am able to stop by his shop to visit. We talked on the phone about a week ago and the subject of how to mate the body to the chassis came up. Since we live 800 miles apart I could not help him make it happen. He seemed to be bummed about the delay. Then I see that the stars aligned a day or two later and he was able to make it happen. Most of us know how he feels! There is nothing better than getting the body on the chassis and then being able to drive the T a couple of days later. I know that Mike is in hog heaven! Pun intended.
Bill, I'm sure that someone will chime in here, but if I am correct, the Pancake style Hasslers are different than the other style. The perches only have to be rotated, they don't have to be swapped from side to side. Dave
David is correct. If you look at Dan's post on August 12, the second picture - the mounting arms for the Pancake Hasslers have a big twist in them between the part that sits on the perch and the part that gets the shackle: it's made so that it takes into account the tilt that results from just spinning the perches in place. If you swapped the perches and turned them around you'd have WAY too much caster.
Well, I have learned something! My experience has been only with the earlier "bee hive" Hasslers. Thank you. Bill