Help me if you can. I tried to remove the oil pan drain plug today. It turned but would not back out. It is a plug I got from a vendor that has a built in magnet. I used a copper gasket when I last changed the oil. Somehow the threads are not engaged and it will not back out. Should I try to wedge something under the plug to force it to engage the threads as I try to back it out? Has anyone else had a similar problem?
Bill, that seems like the best option you have now.Get it off and inspect the threads, maybe you can re-tap it.
Bill. I had the very same thing happen to me when I installed one of those new repro drain plugs several years ago and forgot to install the copper washer. Since then I have tried every thing under the sun to remove it without any luck. It leaks a bit now and I would REALLY like to remove and replace it so I don't have to drain the oil through the lower petcock hole.
If someone has some advice by all means share it with us.....please.
Jay, have you tried placing a screwdriver between the pan and the nut as you slowly try to back it out? If this works maybe you can put two washers on the nut if the pans first thread might be stripped.
Worst case scenario (and I do mean, worst case) pull engine; separate crankcase; and apply pressure from inside on drain plug or drill it out. I never thought of having this problem, but you can bet I'll make sure the plugs I use have gaskets and full threads
It sounds like you need to do something a wrench cannot do, which is to pull the plug downward while unscrewing the threads.
Were I in your position, I'd do the heretical thing and grab that sucker with a big ol' vicegrips. It's the one tool that can maintain a tenacious grip on the plug such that you can engage the threads by applying a steady, hard, downward pull as you unscrew.
Bill can you use Vicegrips to hold it and drill a small hole in it. Then use one of the multi diameter step drill to open it up on step at a time till you have most of the plug removed. Then use just the blade from a hack saw and cut till you are close the threads. Move over a bit and cut again. Then tap with a chisel to remove the part between the 2 cuts. It then should collapse and then come out with out hurting the pan. Scott
Vice grips should work if not tack weld a home made T handle on to pull down on while turning. KGB
Typical reproduction! Maybe you could drill it, and let the oil drain out. Then drill it for the largest EZ out you can find. Then turn the EZ out while pulling on it with vise grips?
I have already tried the screw driver thing and the vice grip thing myself to no avail. Both these moves cock the plug off center to the pan threads. I really don't want to strip the pan threads if at all possible. I think the tack welding of a T handle might work on the plug since you can finesse the angle of approach of thread engagement with much more control. I guess I am going to have to bit the bullet and buy a harbor freight welder and give it a go.
Myself i think i would avoid the welding? If the plug is not leaking why not drill and tape for a 3/8" pipe plug?Bud.
Throw the T on a trailer and bring it up to our place, Jay - we'll take care of it and you & the Mrs. can get in a visit & some well deserved time off !!! Spaghetti sauce is on !
Diane is still singing "You picked a fine time to leave me, Loose Wheel" !
Whack it with a hammer. A good whack and try loosen it... Same idea as an impact driver... Works on a stuck wheel nut...hopefully will work here too.
OK here's the Dill Pickle, We got a plug with the magnet so I do not think you can drill through the magnet plus the plug is about 1 1/4 inches below the mag. magnets, so I'm thinking drilling is not in our best interest. So plan B take hacksaw and cut a notch through the copper gasket. Cut to the plug side so as not to damage the pan. I would do one side and use a screw driver [caution; never pry with a screwdriver] to pry down and try to back the plug out. If that doesn't work cut a second notch and pry from both sides while turning. You'll probably need someone to help you. My wife will generally trade 4 or 5 hours of house work for 15 minutes of help in the shop. After the notches are cut you might try cutting a flat washer in the shape of a horse shoe, tapering it with a file or grinder and wedging it in with a hammer wile turning the plug, thus eliminating the hours of housework. If I can help call me 903 824 1949
I really don't want to whack it because it is free and turns, it just won't back out. The threads on the plug are not engaged with the threads in the pan. I may have to wait until I eventually tear down the engine to address this problem.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
Tack weld a bolt onto the end of it so that you can turn it and pull down on it at the same time?
Can you drill and tap a hole in the center of it and install a bolt. Maybe even a bolt with a jamb nut on it? Then while pulling down on the bolt, try very slowly turning with the wrench. With luck you might catch the edge of the thread and then be able to unscrew the plug.
I would add this to Norman's suggestion. Weld a piece of all thread to the plug first. Cut a tube sleeve from some old piping big enough to go over the dimple on the bottom of the pan. Then install a bridging piece across the tube with the all thread through the middle. Run on one nut to put tension on the plug, and using two more nuts locked together, turn the thread while keeping some tension on the plug.
Hope this works,
Allan from down under.
You know what, that thing is not leaking. Maybe I'll do what Jay is doing and drain the oil through the lower petcock. Makes an oil change a lengthy process but keeps the old car running.
I just hate to tear the engine down for that stupid plug.
1. Will draining through the lower petcock get all the oil out ?
2. Allan's suggestion gives you the best shat at removing the plug as you can put a lot of pull on that plug as your backing it out. Almost have to work
3. Rather than buy a welder find someone to weld the rod on. Should be super cheap or free
Bill it sounds like the thread has stripped either on the male or female side.. So the plug turns but cannot catch a thread to back itself out. And the stripped threads are keeping this from happening if that makes sense...
Just thinking out loud but if you can't wedge the plug down while trying to unscrew it..to help it find a thread.. Then I might be inclined to cut the bolt head off flush with the pan...and drill n tap or similar a way to turn the plug into the hole further till it comes free inside... Then get it to find the nearest magnet...turn the motor till its at the top or somewhere where you can fish it out... ???
Might involve removing the hogshead which sucks but is easier than the whole engine...
Reading my previous suggestion vs this one... I seem to like to whack or cut my way to solutions!
Anyway I hope you come right. And I hope its an easier solution than this one...
I use a bent plastic tube and suction gun to drain the oil though the lower petcock in the oil pan after I remove the petcock as a temporary solution. I thought I was upgrading my car by adding a repop magnet in the drain plug accessory but it's turn out to be a cluster chuck, and you can quote me!!
It seems the the plug thread is 24 TPI. I would try something like Alan suggested but use a 3/8" fine tread bolt/stud (24 TPI) welded to the plug. Then tighten up to pull the plug and hold the pulling nut fixed while turning the plug/stud. Both the pulling 3/8" pulling nut and plug threads would be the same pitch and with luck the plug would come out without any more damage to the pan threads.
Once the plug is removed it is quite likely that the threads in the pan are messed up. This repair may work:
I think you are all missing the point, you will find that the sleeve that the sump plug screws into is loose in the sump pan, in order to get the plug out you will need to tack weld the sleeve to the pan, you will only need two tacks that should do it. then unscrew the plug.
Had that problem, the sleeve was turning in the pan. No matter what I tried, I could not grab the sleeve to undo the plug.
Got a friend to tack weld it, but no welder can resist, he just had to continue and, sure enough, he blasted a hole in the pan and we lost all the oil!
After lots of rumination, he welded the plug all around, got the sump plug out and we plugged the hole with JBWeld.
It's still working years later!
I love JB Weld!
If you can get the head off, a long flexible tool with a magnet pushed down through the inspection hole should be attracted to the magnet on the plug
and be able to bring it up. be careful not to get it on the magneto magnets.
Just a thought but if one would remove the lower c.c. cover, simply drop the hose from the end of your suction gun into the sump to remove the motor oil - that cover, along with the "horse shoes" should be removed every few oil changes to clean up the c.c. inner ledge and remove the oil out from the dips.
Peter: I don't believe the sleeve turning is the issue - someone correct me but it sounds as though there is a considerable "gap" between the end of the threads and the segment where the sealing washer goes - be it copper or fibre and once installed, simply goes past the "point of no return" !
Beautiful station wagon. Someone should jump on it. The modern cars are nice, too.
Sorry, wrong thread.
Bill. Try taping the plug. Where in SE Texas are you? I am in Livingston.
Charles, I am just south of Conroe in The Woodlands.