Since I got a quick reply this morning I thought I would pick your brains again.
The gent I bought it off of aid there was no vin and the casting dater was 1915.
From my reading I am not seeing that compared to the data here, also there is not Ford cast into the block either.
Appears to be a late '23 or '24 and later block.
The Ford script and made in USA was deleted from later blocks.
The pad size for the serial number is typical of late block. And the 2nd picture shows a one piece valve cover chamber, typical of later blocks.
A '15 would have a 2 chamber valve area.
block with large pad for engine number stamping and no Ford script block.
Earlier block with Ford script. Note the smaller serial number pad
I have one in one of my cars. It has the two holes for the improved hogs head. It does not have Ford made in USA on it. There is no vin number. I believe they were made after the T was discontinued for about 10 or so years as replacement engines. Also it might have been used as a stationary engine.
Norm, does the "post t" block have a casting date?
It has an aftermarket water pump, no starter and a cover over the generator, it could be stationary...
If the engine number pad is blank, the block was sold separately as replacement block only.
Ford assembled motors were always stamped. Even complete motors made after the T was discontinued. The serial number list goes 15,176,888 in 1941! Car numbers stopped of course at 15,007,033, but TT's kept on for a while at many branch plants.
Now if the pad is blank it also could have been scrubbed clean, or filed or ground off engine number, that can happen.
All the Improved Car blocks, 1926-1927 were cast too without the Ford script or made in USA.
That block Tony pictured is a Ford block.
i doubt it was filed there is no taper between the water inlet and pad, also it stands out from the block a bit too.
Replacement block, un-numbered from the Ford factory. Note sentence # 3 below.
again, thank you all!
When I looked at the picture of the block in question, did I not see two big cracks? Dan
the upper right is a casting ridge on the water side, where would you see another crack?
Let's say you were going to pound a number into a block. I have number dies standing by but how big of a hammer will it take?
There is no casting date. There is the letter B below cylinder #1. The B can be seen below the water tube which connects the two hoses on the left side of the engine.
Tony: First picture, To the rear of the water inlet, shiny spot looks like a crack. Same picture, To the front of water inlet, above the E1, looks like another crack. I have seen a lot of that year blocks cracked in the same places. You may have to pressure test it to see if it is leaks there. It may not leak till you have it vatted. Dan.
The factory guys just used a long handle ball peen hammer, but they had lots of practice
The favorite 3 lbs. mallet is my choice, with a set of Harbor Freight alpha-numeric stamps.
Did this 20's block with a new number that was on a valid title, yup, hearsay, as that '13 number shouldn't be on a later block, but the block cost a lot less than another title!
Sold the car this was in, somewhere down years from now, one is gonna think what the hey, this isn't a '13 block?!!
My way of creating some later fun or consternation depending on attitude
Thanks Dan, It felt like a casting flaw to me, I will have to really clean it up and look.