I need to replace metal in the quarter panels of a 26 roadster body. The rusted out areas may be bigger than what patch panels will cover. What I need to know is does anyone use a 110 volt flux core welder and what type of results do you get? Do they leave a lot of slag in the weld or pits?
Or, does anyone make replacement quarter panels for a 26-26 roadster or pickup?
I do use a flux-core welder and for small jobs they are good, but they require a lot of practice. a better choice would be a stitch welder with 3/32 rod and very low amps weld a small stretch then go to the other side of the patch to keep from overheating to weld patches in a panel requires talent and patience.. good luck!
Look in craigslist for a 220 wirefeed welder (assuming you have access to 220) alot of times they come with bottles. For a little more up front you can have 8 times the machine. My two cents...
And yes I do have a flux core only weld welder (HF brand) its a paper weight.
Dennis: I have been a welder for over 30 years, and am now a retired welder. I am not a fan of flux core for sheet metal work. It needs to be ran too hot, it traps slag unless you are very good, it is almost impossible to do tack, tack, tack, type of fit up. Flux core is good for heavier types of welds at least a 1/8 inch thick minimum. If at all possible get hard wire and gas (co2) or (co2 argon mix). You will never regret it. You can weld almost anything with hard wire and gas. Remember that there is little to no penetration with a wire welder, so always weld a "gap". There are also some copper heat sinks that are magnetic and adjustable to fit behind the gaps or holes. (from Eastwood) that work very well to help your welding. If you do not get the factory versions, a piece of brass flat bar clamped behind the gap works as well. Weld will not stick to the copper or brass. Have several sizes and shapes to choose from. Good luck and I highly do not recommend flux core for body work..
All above is true flux core just makes a big mess of sheet metal.To hot and warps.
BUT dont think wire with gas wont warp.It can if to hot. Burning holes in it,especialy on rusty metal is the biggest problem. The plates of brass mentioned are the solution to part of that.
I think the trick is to watch and when you think you are going along just fine and all is well, STOP and let it cool or SPLAT, a big hole will happen. Or at least that is my luck anyhow.
Here is a photo from ebay.
The seller says it will take some work.
It's a 14 so I guess it is rare.
I did considerable welding on my 24 body with my Lincoln flux core welder and reverse polarity, patch panels, cracks and what have you. It would have been easier with a gas mig attachment. Don't buy a cheapie welder where only the wire is controlled by the trigger and torch is hot all the time. I would spring for a gas mig welder, 115 volts will weld some pretty heavy stuff, 1/4 angle, 5/8 rod etc.
I have bought a gas kit for my welder and soon will be teaching my grandson how to weld. My pacemaker has disqualified me from arc welding.
It is not a 1914. 1914 has no lip for the tack strip.
When fitting patch panels i like to have them overlap. This means rolling a relief in the panel so they finish up on the same plane. I drill 1/4" holes through the outer panel, clamp the patch panel in place with a copper bar behind as a heat sink, and mig weld through the holes. With not too much practice, you can almost get away without filing to finish. Then I do a series of tack welds along the join to make it more solid.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I am a retired weldor (way back when, weldor was a person that welded, a welder was the machine that the person used) and I have only used flux cored wire a couple of times. It was used to weld some very rusty steel out in the open, subject to wind. It sucked, at best, but got the job done. But, it had to be run on straight polarity, the opposite to what Ted posted. I never tried it on sheet metal. Dave
The best way to repair panels which require patches is to weld them with Oxy Acetylene welding.
A bit more practice is needed than some of the electric welding methods but the results are far superior.
When welded by this method the join can be filed and an invisible repair achieved.
Here is a sample we had in our workshop which showed two guards welded in the middle and then file finished prior to painting.
Students in the classes had to achieve this result to gain a pass, no type of filler was allowed to be used.
First picture shows the back second the finished front of the panel
It is the only method I use on any such repairs.
The above work was not done by me.