I just purchased a Texas T Parts Ball Bearing Fan Hub from Chaffin's to fix the noisy old fan on our '27 Coupe. Well, it has become a mess and I'm not a happy camper! First problem is apparently they make the replacement hub too short so that it will work with thicker after-market non-stock radiator cores... well, I had a belt tensioner that now hits the fan as well as a water pump that now hits the fan due to the shorter hub... I removed the water pump and tensioner... OK, non-stock stuff that shouldn't be on a Model T. Then when I put the hub on, it hits the fan belt. No clearance? I tried extra washers but no bueno. Now I'm thinking that I need new fan blades with less deflection to make it work. Has anyone else had this problem?
I haven't had the problem since I don't have a fan. I just drove 100 miles with a fresh engine and an old original radiator. No pump, no fan and no trouble - I even had to stand in a line of traffic for some minutes without any signs of boiling. I suspect the high compression head helps - higher compression uses the fuel more effective = less waste heat to cool.
Ok, it's hotter in California & you have many more intersections with stop lights than in rural Sweden where I drive so if you can't get it to run cool w/o the fan (but with the hub for belt tensioning) then you can likely make a spacer easily with a lathe and a drill. Longer screws may be needed. Don't bend the fan blades if you can avoid it & inspect them carefully for cracks, the blades flies like projectiles when they break.
Roger: Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking of cutting the end off of the old hub and using that as a spacer. I just don't see why the re-pop is made with so little room for clearance? How thick are the new radiators?
It sounds like someone has bent your fan blades. I have one of those pulleys on my '27 and not a moments problem with clearance.
Larry beat me to it. I think someone has tried to change the pitch of the blades. Before you try to bend anything, or order a new blade, see if you can find another 27 and compare. Find one which has the short shaft on the fan. Use a tape measure and maybe even a protractor to see how the blades compare.
What radiator does your friend have? If you are trying to use the fan pulley made for the thick radiator on a car with a thin radiator, your fan might not pull enough air to cool the engine.
I can't think of anything else which would cause the problem.
Bill. I replaced the original fan hub on my 26T and discovered that the larger dia of the new hub (Texas T Parts) drew the fan hub closer to the fan blades that what I had earlier. Nothing hit but they were closer. That is when using the original belt. To move them apart I had to use a longer belt. I still use the water pump. Wouldn't go without it.
Thanks for all of the ideas!
I stopped by my Dad's garage "Fast Frank's Auto Supply" and picked up a smaller flatter fan. In a test fit, it looks like it will do just fine. I painted it tonight & will do a nice installation and test tomorrow night.
You don't need a ball bearing fan. An original will work just fine. Also,it appears you have the earlier style blades on it, and you should have the later style. I indicate my fan blades on a bench before putting them on the car to make sure they run true. Use an original fan shaft with two new bushings, cap, and felt seal, and you will not have a problem, but of course you have to oil the hub occasionally, and you need a new fan gasket too.
Bill, your original radiator is the thin 3 row (like mine) and the extra reach on the original pulley moves the fan closer to help pull more air through the radiator.
That new ball bearing pulley is made for the thicker 5 row radiators so if you use it with your 3 row, the fan will be further back and might not cool as well. Something to keep in mind when doing your testing.
I have rebuilt my original pulley but it still makes an oily mess under the hood. When I am able to buy a new 5 row radiator, I will get a ball bearing pulley too!
Bill, OK, my Texas T Parts fan/pulley measures 2.25", front to back. The fan blade pitch measures 1.25" and there is 3/8" clearance from the trailing edge of the fan blade to the front of the water pump pulley. Check the fan blade pitch on your T.
Update: I ran the engine for about ten minutes last night... no problems, no water pump, no overheating
I'll have to wait for the weekend to have time for a test run. I think it's going to be fine.
Here are some photo's of my new favorite fan combo. It isn't a steel fan and that is the beauty of it, those stock ford type fans are always breaking and going through the radiator. That problem is now taken care of with this plastic fan. I picked up my parts from Ford-N-More in Spokane. This set up requires a ball bearing fan hub because the plastic fan isn't sealed on the end to retain the oil for the bushing in the original hub. The O.S diameter is the same as the Stock Ford fan. the plastic fan appears to be thicker but it is off set to virtually place it in the same location as the stock Ford fan. Here's to sitting and idling without over heating.
Here is a picture with a Ford fan on top of the plastic to show the size comparison.
Here is the fan installed on a 26-7 T
I like it!
They may look like a$$ but the plastic fans are light weight, balanced, and will add a couple of HP to your T.
Another update: I just drove the '27 around the neighborhood and had no problems. It does run a bit hotter than before but still under the window in the MotoMeter. I think the water pump was actually cooling too much as it seldom registered on the MotoMeter before. I'll give it some more testing this weekend