While I have the front suspension torn down, Should I try and replace the center spring bolt? I would definitely have to cut it off and attempt to separate the springs off the bolt. There is not much left to the head or the nut.
Also, for the spring pad, would you recommend the original leather or rubber replacement.
Chad, it would be a good idea to take the spring apart, clean off the rust, replace any cracked leaves, then repaint with http://www.modeltford.com/item/3800P.aspx
Either the leather or rubber pad is fine but, with leather the bolt head may not be tall enough to engage in the front cross member.
Thanks Stephen. I do have a different brand of that graphite paint that I picked up at Tractor Supply today. I do have a question about it though, Do I paint the outside of the springs with it too? Or is it just meant for the surfaces that rub together.
Getting the spring pack apart went better than expected. You wouldn't have thought it would have went as well as it did by the way the head of the bolt and nut were corroded.
You want to use an NOS bolt if you can find one. The new ones are wrong. Try Bob Bergstadt, Ron Paetz, and/or Model T Haven.
Chad -- Now that you have the spring apart, the best way to treat it is to have it sandblasted and powder-coated, then use the graphite paint on the surfaces which rub together. The next-best way is to sandblast, prime, and paint, then use the graphite stuff. But if you do that, the first time your spring gets wet, it'll bleed rust all over itself.
Chad - You'll also want to check the top surfaces of the leaves for wear grooves where the next leaf up has rubbed and worn indentions into the top surfaces. These should be ground down so the leaves can move freely against each other when reassembled.
Steve, I will try and find a NOS bolt then. Is it because the head is taller?
Mike, If I powdercoat this, it will look way out of place on this T. I will just paint them up, a little rust will get it back to looking right. All the leafs except for the main one will fit in my blast cabinet. I will do the main one last because having the door open will make a heck of a mess. Had to do that when i did the rear axle halves.
Dave, I was already looking at those surfaces. I thought they were well worn, but now that is apart, I think it is just layers of paint built up over the years. I will know better once I blast them, and maybe take a flap wheel to them if necessary.
Yes, the new bolts I've seen have a short head.
Midway between rust and powder coating is Rustoleum. It will wear off where the leaves rub, but if you oil the leaves whenever you fill the oilers, rust should be minimal.
I think RV Anderson was planning on reproducing the correct, thicker head bolt, you could check with him.
Or, if you can get a reproduction bolt that is long enough, you can grind some washers to a square shape and stack them under the head to get the correct head height, like one member did:
The answer is Yes. If you don't, you will always second guess yourself that you should have. You thus get to find any broke springs, clean and repaint the springs, and you get a new bolt. Those bolts can wear thin and break.
I use a flexible sanding disc to smooth out the grooves caused by wear. I then spray Slip Plate on the bottom and tops of the leafs where they are going to make contact. Using a clean rag with thinner on it, I wipe the areas off that are not going to make contact. I assemble the spring, and again wipe any excess Slip Plate off. Next I spray paint the entire spring with gloss black Rustoleum. I forgot to mention, I install new shackle bushings before painting. BTW, Randall should be done making the correct center bolts.
Larry, that sounds like a good idea as to the assembly of the spring then painting. I may follow that route---guess we'll see what kind of mood I am in that day, LOL.
I lucked out and Bob's had an original bolt for the spring. Just got to blast all these parts, paint and reassemble.
I got the leather spring pad too, hope it fits with that.