The pitman arm on my car is worn, is there a quick fix for this? An old timer had told me to take up the slop by putting pennys in between the ball and the cap to take up the slop? I have a brand new replacement arm but don't feel like changing it at the moment. Any suggestions? If there really isnt a good way to fix it quickly I will just replace the pitman arm but any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
Here's my 2¢ worth.
The price is right.
Thanks steve! Looks like I will be giving the penny trick a try.
Make sure to use 1983(?) or older, not the zinc clad ones we have today. I'm not sure what the zinc will do instead of copper, but from machining both, copper is much better bearing material. Someone else can confirm my opinion on this or disprove it too!
An APCO anti rattler will take care of that. APCO made them in all sizes and you can find them frequently on ebay. I have them on every ball joint of my car and they work great! Jim Patrick
Chris 1983 used both compositions in the pennies and unless you wish to bring out your gram scale I'd stick with 82 or older the new ones are useful as an anode (I think) or sacrificial corrosion device when hung in your radiator (zinc content)
Why not clean off the pitman arm, and measure the ball? If it isn't worn too bad, you can file the cap and the drag link, and you won't need the penny. Bill Barth sells them with new balls installed, but I forget the price.
Drop a 1982 or earlier penny and a newer one on a hard surface, and you can sure hear the difference. The ring of bronze and the clunk of zinc.
^ Copper Steve.......copper.......
Larry Smith is right, fix the problem. The steering is important, always remember a model T is not a toy and will kill you same as any other auto. KGB
Keith, as I see it all three methods work and none will kill you if you measure and check things carefully. The Apco anti rattler is best if the ball isn't round anymore and filing the cap can be problematic if you have to file too much, it'll be weakened. Filing the drag link is less problematic.
I like the APCOs but he did want a "quick" fix. Even quick than swapping out for the new arm he already has.
Believe remembering that Constantine, on that Australia to Moscow travel that he had steering lockup due to ball cap shim shifting.
The shims were the half round, thin, but IMO, any shims or pennies can't perform better than good Ford parts in place correctly.
I didn't remember Constantin's incident, thanks Dan
Here's the thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/295512.html?1339637795
Constantine wore out a thin steel shim from the vendors. It moved and made the steering lock up in Adis Adeba, Ethiopia.
Fortunately he had saved the penny Royce originally had put there to take up the wear - then he could continue and finish his trip to Russia. My conclusion: Another faulty repro part made out of the wrong material - the time tested shade tree method with a penny works better.
Does this mean that my jar of 1943 steel penny's I've been saving are worthless as pitman arm repairs ? Dang!
Alex, replacing the pit-man arm is easy, as long as you can get the off one off. I would replace it if the ball is badly worn then install a spring loaded cap.
Bud, your 1943 pennies were designed for fixing heavy duty Willys Jeeps during WWII .