Removing rear wheel

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Removing rear wheel
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stuart Carey on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 06:41 am:

Well I've tried a hub puller, no success, I've tried a sledgehammer, no success, how can I remove a rear wheel from my 1924 Model T Ford tourer. The other side came off fine, but this one just won't budge.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 07:14 am:

Hey Stuart, a lot of the guys on here recommend backing the nut off just a bit, and then carefully drive the car around your neighborhood. Obviously you don't want to go fast while doing any of this but take some turns, maybe drive over a curb, and she'll brake loose. It will work when all else fails. Check it occasionally and once it slides to where you backed the nut off to, go back and use your hub puller again.

Good luck and let us know if that fixes it!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 07:15 am:

Sorry, that should be *break* loose. Need more coffee.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 08:19 am:

I had a tough one a while back, kept spraying PB Blaster into the threads where they poke through the hub, next day off it came. Maybe it'll work for you.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By brass car guy on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 09:47 am:

Try a Bingo. I have removed highly rusted and seized hubs this way. Screw it on the axle and give it a couple of hard wacks and the wheel will pop loose. Ever model t'er should have one in their tool kit. I inherited a full set from my father and prize them highly

just sayin;

brasscarguy


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 10:00 am:

If you do it Brass car guy's way, leave the wheel on the ground and jack up the other side.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 10:11 am:

What is a Bingo? Haven't heard that term before! I use a genuine Ford late style puller that has a tepee shape, and a knocker on the end. I prefer it to the earlier style Ford pullers.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 10:18 am:

Bcg is talking about a knock off nut - is Bingo a regional name or a product name for this?

http://www.modeltford.com/item/2800KO.aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Todd on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 10:46 am:

Where I grew up bingo was a slang term for cheap wine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 10:52 am:

I thought you needed pennies or a highlighter for bingo, maybe some cards too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 10:59 am:

If you use a "bingo"/knock-off nut, be SURE to keep a wrench on it while you hit it. The idea is to keep it screwed on tight at all times. If it works loose, the force of your hammer blows will be directed at the axle threads only, (which will destroy them), rather than the end of the axle shaft, which is where the hammer blow force is intended to act.

BTW, I call it a knocker. (I like knockers, what can I say?)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 11:00 am:

Guess the card game version was a big fad in the US in the 40's, here's a favorite song from 1949: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGx9YT-nkc0
It was a similar fad in the 60's in Sweden.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 11:02 am:

I had one a while back that was very stubborn. I loosened the nut a bit, then installed the puller and tightened it as much as I could, then went for a drive with the puller installed. When I came back, the wheel still hadn't popped loose, but jacking up the opposite wheel and whacking the puller with my hand sledge a few times finally popped the wheel loose. Whew!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 11:26 am:

With all that whacking and pounding if you use a wheel puller, take the nut off, re install it upside down even with the end of the axle. This will help keep the end of the axle from mushrooming out.
If your hub puller has a centering point on the screw watch that it's not too long. I had to fix mine as every time I used it it crushed the hole for the cotter pin.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Aaron Griffey, Hayward Ca. on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 11:44 am:

Last week Ed Archer couldn't get a drum off the rear of his mid twenties Chevvy flatbed truck.
He left the axle nut loose, loaded his T speedster on it and drove the hundred plus miles to Leguna Seca. The hub was still tight, but when he got back to Hayward it was finally free on the tapered axle.
A trip around the block usually does not loosen a hub that you have been beating on with a sledge hammer for a couple of hours.

While racing the speedster at Laguna Seca he broke the left rear axle near the wheel.
Figuring he could not load the speedster back on the truck with the left rear wheel missing he pounded the stub broken axle piece out of the hub and had it welded back on the axle shaft that stuck out of the rear end a couple of inches. It held while they pushed the speedster back onto the flatbed Chevy


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 12:00 pm:

I've used a knocker to remove some tough ones. Norm's advice is spot on ... jack up the opposite wheel.

Also suggest you get about a 5 lb hand sledge instead of beating it to death with a framing hammer. Usually 2 or 3 good whacks with the sledge does it


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warren Henderson on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 01:57 pm:

I used a small sledge hammer and keep hitting all around the brake drum edge until it broke loose.

Hope this helps,

Warren


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Thursday, August 21, 2014 - 02:16 pm:

Knock off's always work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenneth W DeLong on Friday, August 22, 2014 - 09:38 am:

I like use of the PB blaster and the short drive first. Bud.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Friday, August 22, 2014 - 09:44 am:

Stuart did you get it off? If not how much time have you spent on it?

Has it turned into an epic battle of wills in which your anger and resolve make you ready to just plasma torch the whole thing off right behind the backing plate?!? Rear spring, axle bearing, and axle be damned, this thing is coming OFF! THERE! I GOT IT!! And then you spit on the wheel (with axle stub and backing plate still attached) and go in the house.

I don't know about you but I've felt like that sometimes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Markham on Friday, August 22, 2014 - 08:12 pm:

I tighten up the puller center bolt as hard as I can and with one hand wack the heck out of the center bolt while with the other hand keep a wrench on the bolt and keep turning it with every hit


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