When attaching the repo heads to the pedals should they be welded or brazed? The ones for the engine I am doing now were brazed on.
Should the round spring be used with the Jack Rabbit clutch?
I wouldn't thrust a brazed pedal for braking. I wouldn't like a welded pedal either, but if someone who knows what he's doing welds it, it should hold up.
Round springs were supplied with Watt's chutches but there has been issues with them getting loose from the collar and R.V. Anderson has supplied square springs with higher strength for the Watts clutches he has sold. Don't know if Jack Rabbit clutches needs a stronger spring than standard, put I don't suppose so, I would try a good original (they need to be tested for strength) or good square repro spring.
"I wouldn't trust".. "but" instead of put (should proof read better today )
Roger too fast with your reply! I was just going to change Jackrabbet to Watts.
In the context of the sentence I read it as trust anyway. One of those self correcting things our minds do.
Actually I got a round spring with my Watts and compared the strength with other new & old springs I have - it was stronger, so I checked the fit in the spring support - not too good, squeezed it a bit in the trusty vice and got it to fit fairly well. Took a chance and used it. Let's see if it stays in place - I don't see how it could get loose, but I've been wrong before. Just check carefully so it fits where it should in the clutch spring support.
You are right about checking spring tension. I check all the disk springs in a spring checker and throw about 1/2 in the junk pile. I have tested some as little as 40 LBS. I am not familiar with RV's springs but they sound like a good deal. I don't use spring under 110 LBS.
I have known of several cases where the round springs have unwound in the CLUTCH SPRING SUPPORT, leaving people stranded a long way from home.
DON'T USE ROUND SPRINGS !!!!
The original pedals were (I believe and have read) forged. The repro pedal tops are cast (I know that for certain). It is tricky to weld them being dissimilar iron and steel, but I have done it. That is one reason that many people braze them. It is much easier.
What I do, to make them stronger, is cut the repro back to behind the pedal itself. That way, the pressure from your foot pushes straight through to the original forged arm instead of angled pressure with leverage trying to snap the weld/braze. It is a little trickier to clean up on the curve and close quarters. But I think worth it. Another advantage, is that IF the weld/braze breaks, the arm still at full length can still be pressed (albeit uncomfortably) with your foot. I consider that to be a major safety consideration.
Just a few thoughts from broken down old me.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
That's sound advice Wayne. We need more of that kind of thinking. Well done.
Allan from down under.
I asked about brazing the pedals as they are done at this point (by the guy this customer got the car from). This makes the point moot about welding them behind the pedal in this case (I like and understand that idea). These being for left hand drive I can't just go out to the bone pile and get replacements, so have to work with what we have.
I cut and grind the backs off the reproduction pedal heads so there is only a thin shell left with the letters. I braze those onto stock unmodified pedals. That way the full strength of the stock pedal is retained.
Hey! I think I like your idea better than mine!
Thank you, Art W!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2