Is 14 foot flat bed adequate for a touring? 16 would probably be better, but is 14 still ok or am I compromising too much? I never had a trailer.
I do not like pulling a trailer but I will. I have a Toyota Tacoma off road package, but I have to look into gross weight it can handle.
I would think a two axle and brakes are what to look for when buying a trailer. Anything else?
How much does a 1912 touring weigh? 1200 pounds?
I have a 16 ft and carry a couple with plenty of room to spare. Better to have a little more room that not enough when it comes to a trailer.
It fit inside this 14' box:
16ft, 2 axles w/brakes YES, it will also back easier than a 14'. Also if you at a later time sell to upgrade or stop you will have an easier time getting a good amount for it.
I tow my '26 touring some times on a an 11 foot trailer. I have hauled a model A on it too, several times.
Some years ago I towed a 10 foot flatbed trailer hauling several model T Fords with a Toyota Corona and an '82 Toyota pickup.
google "MTFCA TRAILER" there are many many excellent posts on safe towing and pros and cons
14 foot works just fine. I had a 12 foot that work just fine although I was towing a 1923 Run-About and not a Touring but not that much difference.
Robert - Checkout Appalachian Trailers. They have a dealership up in Lancaster, Pa area. The one I have is bigger than required for a T, but I use it to haul other cars too. I'm very happy with the quality for the money.
Many ad an additional cooler for the transmission. Goes in front of the regular radiator and the transmission fluid runs through it as well as the designated chambers of the regular radiator. Helps preserve the transmission.
14 ft. Big TEX 50LA with single axle electric brakes.
2003 Ford Explorer V6 with 4800 gvw tow package
Below picture was taken in Yellowstone returning from the Whitefish tour
16 foot trailer with 4 wheel brakes
2011 Jeep GC Overland Summit...Hemi V8
Note toolbox on front of trailer.
This is probably "overkill".
Whatever U use, remember that U need at least 10% of load weight
I've had no trouble hauling a T on a 12' bed. Touring, roadster, whatever. That doesn't matter. They're all the same wheel base.
It will also take a TT, which has a longer wheel base.
Hey, with those pictures above it looks like you are ready for school and church. Although I think it would be more fun to drive the T rather than trailer it.
Hal...doesn't those straps going down the sides tend to scratch, if not at least scuff, the paint?
Say today you have a 12 trailer that works just fine for you. Just enough room to get your touring on. Tomorrow you have the chance to buy another car which is longer than your touring. Oop's now you have to buy a longer trailer.
I have hauled everything from my T's to a Model AA to my LONG model A Boattail on my 16 ft'er and all has been wonderful. There are someday's I wished I had gotten an 18 or 20 ft. But my 16x7 has been a great choice. It pulls great and is easy to back.
Steve has an excellent combination there, I like it, especially the longer tongue, makes it easier to back up. Is that a 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton truck? Most people that purchase a trailer, have other purposes in mind for them, that being said, for me I would look for at least a 16 footer tandem axle with brakes and 2 inch ball for my general uses. A nice half ton chassis could pull it, but I think a 3/4 ton chassis would be better. JMHO
Say today you have a 12'er that will pull your touring. Tomorrow you have a chance to buy another car which is longer than your touring. Oop's now you have to buy a longer trailer. My 16x7 I have hauled my T's, a Model AA, and my LONG Model A Boattail. All with comfort. The boattail alone is nearly 15ft. The trailer pulls wonderful, little swing for corners and backs easy. There are days I wish I had bought something a bit longer. But in the mean time, this 16ft'er is a great trailer.
hope that TT is going far tied down like that !
The Suburban started life as a half ton when my aunts bought it to pull a Winnebago vacation trailer. When I started pulling a trailer hauling steel signs to peddle at swap meets, a local mechanic put a 3/4 ton rear end in it. The long tongue is because there used to be a fold-down "front porch" to extend the bed forward when I set up shop at meets. This has been a good combination for hauling things, but the Chebby is such a prodigious gas hog that I don't use it for anything else.
Mike, the TT came home from Arkieland like that with no problems. But now that I know a little more about trailering I'd do it differently.
We haul our 1926 Fordor on a 18 footer, with two ratchet straps. One on the front axle and one on the rear.
I know that this is off-topic, but Mr. Thomas, would you consider posting some pictures of you Boattail, if you have any? Sounds very interesting and I would love to see it.
Peter, I will post photos a little later. Check back.
About a year ago I rented a U-Haul auto trailer and hauled my TT about 135 miles, then 135 miles back for a family event. That experience taught me that although trailer length, weight capacity and towing vehicle tow capacity are all very important, there is another factor equally important, and that is weight distribution.
The U-Haul trailers are set up for the trailered car (or truck) to be all the way forward, period. If you buy a trailer, you can monkey with the placement a little to be sure you get the proper tongue weight and balance for your set-up.
I'm not sure I'll ever try to haul my TT on a U-Haul trailer again. Everything seemed OK, proper tongue weight and all. But we traveled a patch of really bad freeway in Oakland, CA. I did not like how the thing behaved. It was clear that the weight was not properly distributed and it bounced around badly. Of course, I slowed down (I was doing 55 MPH to start with) and things settled, but it's not an experience I'd care to repeat.
peter, started your own thread with photos. Thanks for your interest.
12 and 14 works for my T's.
Tim from way up there, I have padding on all of the straps and I coated the hooks below the door with that rubber stuff you can buy for plier handles. My paint isn't as fussy as some of the pristene cars that a lot of the members of this forum possess. It took a while to make that "bra"....It's water proof.
P.S. I've used this rig to criss cross the US several times and maintain around 65 MPH. I don't notice that it's back there except acceleration and fuel consumption suffer. Climbing out of this Sacramento valley, the hill East of Salt Lake City and the hill past the Lincoln Memorial in Wyoming I shift down a notch and let it spin and gin... and keep a close eye on the engine temp.
The front spring and rear axle should be tied down. If you tie the front axle forward and rear axle aft, then you are putting the wishbone and ball in tension, which in my opinion is a mistake.
Ted. I tie with 6 straps, and have never run into a problem. (Two f. axle forward, two r. axle aft, one f. axle back and one r. axle forward.) I have over 25,000 miles rigged that way. My wishbone ball is in good shape and very secure. Cheers
My 14 foot trailer is perfect for my Model T.
A model T is not heavy. Any car that should be used as a tow vehicle can haul one. I am not a fan of unenclosed trailers for older antique cars due to the aerodynamics of the towed vehicle. A T was designed for 45 mph or so. A T should be towed with that in mind. A T should not be towed on the interstates as 55 would be the absolute top speed that should reasonably be used. With an enclosed trailer, you can tow at 100 if your rig is good enough. I don't have a trailer yet, but I wouldn't even consider an open trailer for my T. For a modern car - perhaps mid-thirties and up (all metal,capable of doing 65 mph) yes. Earlier, no. FWIW: I had two tourers front-to-back in a 26 foot long barn.