Some time ago I bought a hub off ebay knowing I would need it someday. Recently I needed to assemble a 21" wheel and used that hub.
I was surprised when my new races wouldn't fit the hub. Actually it kinda looks like there are already races in the hub, but if so they have no "cup" or bottom !!!
Can't figure this one out. Are there races in the hub or not? If so how do I get the danged things out.
Pictures below show the front of the hub and the back, with the new races alongside.
Bud, there are races in your hub already. They are for tapered roller bearings, so they don't have a bottom.
Your hub has roller bearing races in it. If you want to remove them to install ball bearing races, do a search on "bearing race removal" for some tips.
Bud, your wheel has roller bearing races in it. Looks like what you want to install are ball bearing races. These are interchangeable, but if using roller bearings in a ball bearing hub, an extra thin notched washer is available. I only use roller bearings, but that is me. ( it looks like the new race you want to use has been beadblasted. I wouldn't use it if so. )If you need the race removed,a long punch is the tool to use. That is why the notches are in the core. I removed three races last night before they went to the sandblaster. Sometimes they are a real bear. I've split them with a torch already, but that's cheating. Hope this helps. Tim
Bud, you need to knock the old races out of your hubs. A long drift punch is required.
Well .......... that explains it !!!
I had never seen the races for the tapered bearings and just couldn't figure it out!
Thanks all !
What I want to know is where you got new parts for ball bearings. Are they NOS?
Bud - you might want to verify your ball bearing cups - from the photo, one appears to be deeper than the other and one can see the obvious difference in where the retainer ring goes. Early driveshaft closed spools used a ball cup very similar to a wheel bearing cup !
Well I got them out. It wasn't easy and my workshop looks like the devil's own mechanic was using it ... but they're out!
A little welding, a little grinding, a little dremel tooling and a lot of hammering.Seems like the outer hub threads were peened over just enough to prevent the race from coming out.
Steve: races are not new but have been well cleaned. Got them from Don.
Langs has the outer race and ball bearings but not the cups. The balls are in the bearing section the races are in the clearance section. By the way there is a snap ring that fits in the groove, I think they may have then too.
Bud, The easy way to get bearing races out is to use a bearing shrinker.
Get your arc welder out and lay a bead in the middle of the race. A nice fat one. When it cools it will shrink and fall out. Scott
I'll go along with what Tim said - if those races have been bead blasted, I would find some creative use for them such as a lamp base or a pencil holder.
I use the same method as Scott it has worked for me for over 40 years. Just works so slick especially with your MIG welder. One small bead and watch the cup just about fall out.
Question. Those of you who use a welder to get the races out - do you do it with the hub attached to the spokes (i.e. a complete wheel) ?
Has anyone ever had a problem with too much heat from the welding messing up the spokes where they are clamped in the hub?
Some of the early hubs don't have the slots for a punch, and if there are Timken races in them, the only thing you can do is weld a plate across the race to get it out.
We have used Scott's technique many times, works like a charm! Often there is not a big enough notch in the hub casting to use a punch. It will not damage the hubs or spokes, just protect them from welding spatter.
If you don't have a welder but have an acetylene torch, the same thing can be done with it. Just heat up the race in two to three places red hot and let it cool. Same effect, it'll fall out. Dave