Out with the old, in with the new, well I least I got the old rear end out! So that's a start. Now I just have to see what I can reuse and what I have to order from Lang's to get the new Ruckstell rear end installed. Oh and by the way if your ever thinking about changing rear ends without a lift, Don't! Another word of advice before you start have the undercarriage steamed cleaned or at least power washed.
Warren - don't be afraid of a little grease
I did the thrust bearings in my rear end - I mean the T's rear end - while it was still in the car.
If you don't get a little dirty you are not working on a T!
Warren, it totally agree with you about getting the rear end in or out. Don't ask me how I did it, but I somehow managed to remove and replace the rear end on my 1914 touring by myself!!! And I ain't no spring chicken anymore!
I used a floor jack under the differential to lower and move my rear axle. Not too bad by myself. Getting it back in took two of us - you need help aligning the U-joint pin while using the floor jack to position the entire assembly. Resting it on the running board braces made it fairly easy.
I made lifting arms like in the old days, unfastened the rear end and drive shaft then lifted it with a winch in the sealing,when it was clear then put it on jack stands. Reversing the procedure to put it back in. I always have worked by my self,just making sure I have nothing in harms way.
When aligning the u joint make sure that you are working from the top not from under.
Here's a jig for the floor jack to handle the rear axle assembly, note that the front is adjustable for height for putting the u-joint in place. Makes installing a rear axle assembly a one man job.
Very nice tool, Ken ! Mine is similar but I made it from 2x6's.
I did my TT's rear by myself and really struggled. Used my motorcycle lift to put it back in, helped a lot. But I need to make one of those adapters, very cool.
Here's another version.I like Ken's extension to hold the drive shaft. I think I'll add that to mine.
Have fun Warren, you're going to have a ball with this project!
You have all the resources, so when its apart, you will see how logically it goes together, and I am sure you will find it a piece of cake to do well.
Along with the new bronze thrust washers, get the shims that might be needed for fine adjustment, and new pins.
I used my creeper to move the rear end around... Getting it back into the car was awkward but not difficult. I put the axle side on trestles, and came in under the diff with the jack on wheels. Up front I used a ratchet strap to suspend the torque tube at about the right height, then feathered her closer. The final alignment was done with a piece of wire around the u-joint and some bumping! Fun!
I didn't use any of the devices the guys recommend, but it got done nonetheless. My work surface has a few extra holes now though
But if I had to do it again, I'd assemble the leaf springs on the axle first before getting the whole rear end back in.. What a buggar that turned out to be!
Hope this helps,
Thank you to everyone for their helpful advice. Fred, a little grease and dirt is fine, but I'm swimming in five years of oil, grease, sand and road kills! Marty, my problem is I'm no spring chicken myself, having lived through 74 winters and counting, but every time I get under my T I realize that I need some other thing or tool. Thomas, that's what I got for lifting and lowering two floor jacks. Ken & Steve, by any chance do you rent that jig out? Justin, I am using my creeper to move the old out and new in. Here is what I found when I pulled the rear wheels. Will knocking the carriage bolts out loosen the wood spokes on my wheels?
Happy motoring, soon I hope,
Warren knocking the carriage bolts out should not loosen the spokes if they are in good shape. but do them 2 at a time opposite each other
You likely know this but use the correct hardened bolts from the vendors. There are some discussions on forum about them.
I have used an appliance dolly form Harbor Freight Tools and it's a bit smaller and works great to wheel the rear end out and in under the car.
I think you will really like the ruckstell.
well when the job is done, the rubbing should be a thing of the past too..
And once inside, I found this...
I removed the rear end from my '13 roadster a few weeks ago. After taking out the four front bolts, I had it out in less than a half hour. The trick is to leave the rear wheels on it, and roll it out.