I have two cracks on the side, one on each side of the outlet for the water house and two on the under side of the deck, 90* from the side cracks.
Is it advantageous to have these repaired (soldered, brazed) OR just scrap the block and find a new one?
Keeping in mind this block is un-numbered.
The above pic show the two 'side' cracks and the others are below these on the Underside of the water jacket.
Another block is the best deal here. They are not that hard to come by. A milling machine makes any block an un-numbered one.
It all depends on the condition of other parts of the block...such as the mains. Those cracks shown are into the water jacket and could be ground out and fixed with an epoxy weld. I am not sure where the others you describe are...depends if structural or not.
Everything is worth saving if there is a reasonable fix.
Water jacket cracks on a Model T are easy to fix. While Jack's solution is the best one, it's not the only one. Since there is no pressure in the cooling system of a T, you can repair it by a number of ways, from stitching to V'ing then brazing, soldering, or J-B Welding the cracks. Any of these methods will last for many years and many thousands of miles.
Like John McG says.
Plus, what do you want to do to and expect from this engine? Water jacket cracks like that can be repaired (?) several ways. Some are easy and cheap (a little V cutting and J B Weld). Some are much better, but should only be attempted by a professional welder and would likely be expensive (stitch welding and actual cast iron welding). Between those are a few differing methods of brazing and soldering. Some, like J B Weld, are relatively non-invasive and can be undone and "properly" redone later. Some brazing and soldering methods are much more invasive and can ruin an otherwise repairable block.
I, and many others, have J B Welded cracks much worse than those with very good success.
For me, one of the biggest considerations, is how good are the bore, head surface, and bearings. If they are good, and you want to use it "on the cheap", J B Weld may be the way to go. "Proper" welding techniques mostly require enough heat that the Babbitt main bearings would be destroyed and the bore and head deck may be damaged by warping that would require a full rebuild.
Beyond that, what year/series is your block? Based upon the one photo I did look at (your link above), it is probably a single side cover block. '22 to '25 blocks are common enough yet that simply getting another may be the best choice. "Two cover" blocks '22 and earlier are getting tougher to get in good usable condition.
I would NOT scrap that block.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I am going to be using her as a speedster. I am in the process of tear down to inspect the rest of the block.
I am sure it will need to be rebabbited, re bored, and surfaced on the head deck.
I figured if these cracks are able to be brazed or soldered I would have it done with the rest of the machining. Assuming there are no other sneaky cracks hidden in the muck.
Don't be too sure about rebabbitting the block ....typically that is a waste of money. Block babbitt is usually good and any improvement can be done with replaceable(new) bearing caps. A lot of money can be wasted on a T engine trying to make it perfect...when it wasn't perfect to start with.
If you think all of what you describe is necessary, then find a new block with good mains.
Not all T blocks have to have a total rebuild.
You can still find engines with good babitt.
A lot of T engines have gotten the full treatment when they really didn't need it.
I bought a 25 block at Chickasha for 10.00 on the last day. It has a near perfect crank and mains in it. It has a hairline crack water jacket crack that I intend to repair with JB weld.
Its a perfect candidate for a barnyard cruiser or cut down speedster.
I'll give ya 20$ or it ;)
Tony: You may find you have other cracks in the block besides what you see.
Those all can be repaired.Nevermind the JB weld.