I recently bought a '14 T with a '24 engine and have been going over it and correcting numerous mistakes made by the previous owner. I removed the oil pan to check out the lower end, and started to replace the wire in the nuts with cotter keys. I noticed the bolt on counterweights and thought that was a very bad idea and was going to remove them. I read in previous posts that some like them but its a good idea to rebalance the crank. I doubt the p.o. did this judging by the wired nuts.
The engine does vibrate at higher speeds (rear view mirror useless) and has a mild knock. It also bucks a lot going from low to high (the flywheel magnets have been removed). It has high compression aluminum pistons.
What do you guys think: leave them in or take them out?
If your going to put alot of money in a engine,why not try to find a pre 1919? Bud.
I added a set to my 26 Touring 30 years ago. Their still in the engine and Ole Black is going strong. It did smoothie out the engine somewhat. Would I do it again......Probably not but then again I can't argue with longevity with the engine.
Is there any evidence that the weights have been balanced (any holes drilled in them)?
I am not sure why you are taking out the safety wiring and putting in cotter pins, but hey it is your engine!
Have you bothered to check the rods for clearance (plastigauge works well)?
Check the centre main as well. I have seen more loose centre main bearings!!
I put bolt on counter weights in my '27 back in '78. I DID dynamically balance the crank and flywheel. The engine is still going strong and smooth
Given the vibrations you talk about I suspect they weren't balanced
I would leave it alone and start making plans for a replacement engine like Bud suggested.
Try to round up a 1914 block, then think about one of the SCAT stroker counterbalanced cranks. A flywheel with a set of magnets so you can make the Magneto work properly. A set of re - babbitted rods. Then pull the current engine and have the usable stuff swapped, or do it yourself (it is a Model T, anyone can do it). Then have the engine and transmission properly balanced statically and as an assembly.
Get all that stuff together because it seems like you are not too sure of anything with this one.
I recently fixed two engines that had the counter weights in them, first I had them dynamic balanced, still would shake your fillings out, removed the weights and had balanced again and engine ran smooth,some people say with the iron pistons the counter balance of the weights help, not on these two engines!
I did not see any balancing holes in the weights. The safety wires were very loose and flopped around. I was worried that they would eventually break off as they passed thru the oil troughs. I'll check the center main clearance. I do have a flywheel with magnets that I plan to install, but a Scat crank is $$$ and I would like to keep it as stock as practical. Does the aluminum pistons alleviate the need for counterbalancing at all?
Robert, I bolted the weights on then took the crank to a speed shop that had balancing equipment. When I got it back the weights looked like Swiss cheese. Before I took it to the shop I balanced each weight on a postal scale and got each as close as I could. Clearly the shop didn't like what I had done.
The biggest problem that I have seen with the bolt on weights is that if they are not installed with great care they bend the crank. This is most likely what caused the problem Joe encountered.
Properly installed they work very nicely, BUT they are a fair amount of work to get right.
Thanks, guys. I'm taking them out!