Looking at some small pieces of body wood that has some dry rot but for the most part is all there.
I have heard about resins that can be used on wood but have never used any of them.
I was thinking about trying to save the wood. is there a substance that is in liquid form that could be applied to the wood very liberally and then place the wood in a chamber and pressurize it so that it would penetrate deep into the wood?
Just thinking out loud.
Has anyone tried anything like this?
Sounds like you need QuikPoly, two part epoxy, you mix it and it's very watery, soaks into wood very well, within a few minutes hardens...this would be used for structural or tacking strip wood...if you're talking about body wood that will be finished and visible, use West System products, does a similar task as QuikPoly but better for final filling and painting... http://kwikpolyllc.com/ http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
If you want high saturation and don't plan on a clear finish look...heat the piece up and brush on West Epoxy. You can thin West Epoxy slightly with Acetone which will give a good saturation also. Use very little acetone to thin it, too much and it will not cure correctly.
I have repaired body wood with QuikPoly. Make a form around the piece to hold the liquid. Use sawdust to fill voids like oversized screw holes etc. It works good but does not have a very long self life.
I have used QuickPoly for years. It works good as a filler, but it does not penetrate very far.Dont try to repair something like rotted spokes with it.
I have used quick poly for years. It works great. If there is dry rot it will soak very deep into the wood. It fills loose screw holes very well. It takes paint good, On the early wood bodied cars I have built new bodies for, I have coated the entire body with it and then sand for paint. It soaks into new wood about 1/16 inch deep. (old wood deeper) On dry rot wood I have had it soak all the way through the piece and out the other side. I also use it to soak the ends of my trans bands with. It stops the unraveling of the cotton or Scandinavian band material. Just touch the ends of the bands to the Quick Poly, Do not stick it deep into the Quick Polly. It will wick into the end of the band about 1/8 to a 1/4 inch, by a simple touching of the surface of the Quick Poly with the end of the band material. I have some Quick Poly, that is over 2 years old. I used it a couple weeks ago and it is still good. If you keep the cans in a cool place and "never" let one single drop of either part contaminate the other part, or never get the caps mixed up, it last for at least a couple years. Use it on cool days, do a quick test when you first get it on a scrap piece of wood to get a feel for its use, also it sets very fast. When it "kicks" and hardens, it does it in less than a minute. You pot life when mixed is around 4 or 5 minutes when using it. "Move fast" I do not recommend it for dry rotted wood spokes. But it is a good first coat on wood spoke wheels you are going to paint. I have also used it on spokes that have been "shimmed" for shrinkage but were still good spokes. After "shimming" and testing the wheel for "run out and wobble. I take and pour the quick poly in the center of the wheel at the hub. It soaks into any gaps from the "shimming" very well and when hard the spokes will never move again. I have wheels painted about 20 years ago, that the paint has not even cracked at the gaps between the spokes.
Following is something similar to what you are thinking about:
I have restored many wooden spokes which were rotten/cracked using vacuum impregnation of Tap casting resin. This would work for any wood that could be placed in a chamber filled with the resin and then evacuated. When vacuum is released the resin is driven into the porus wood and makes it stronger than original. You can use the vacuum from an idling engine intake manifold.
I used a products called GetRot that's very similar. I worked well at first, but started to fall apart after about 2 years. This may not have been the fault of the product, I don't know since I have only one data point. I eventually had to break down and take the car apart (top of my Fordor in this case) and replace the wood sections.
Interesting. I have never used tap casting resin. It looks like as soon as the vacuum was released I could remove wood and add another piece and so on as long as the resin remained in liquid form. Do you wipe the spokes down after you remove them from the resin?
I have wood screw holes in my wood. Will the resin set up so hard that I won't be able to put the screws back into their holes?
Yes, let it remain in the epoxy for a short while for the pressure to drive the epoxy in. Then repeat for additional pieces. It takes some while for the epoxy to set up so you can process many pieces. Upon removal from the container let it drain or wipe it off, depending on the application. There are thinners/reducers that can be used to make the epoxy more fluid. Also it can be colored with a dye. I have used black for spokes...it is a dull black, but can be easily sanded and painted. Assembling a wheel with treated spokes takes some doing as the spoke is now larger unless you remove the epoxy from critical dimension surfaces.