Should I use the spark plug adapters and eye bolts sold by the vendors for engine pulling or does someone have a better method.
Bill Goodheart

I used the spark plug adapter and had no issues at all.

Same here. If I remember correctly, I use the #3 plug hole.

I use this one, I don't trust one plug hole.


Toon

Nice Toon ! I have one similar but it only uses two plugs.

Toon, are you sure that blue hook is big enough?!? LOL....
I'll be pulling the engine out of my '12 in a few weeks, I use one of those "load leveler" things on my crane, uses four head bolts which seems to work nice.

Toon, I like that one, maybe I will build one like it. Or I could take the short jaunt across the pond
from Northern NY and use yours.
Actually I did go to The Netherlands about 20 years ago. Flew into Amsterdam, then a short flight to Mastriccht (spelling ?). Went to a mineral processing plant. My employer mined a scarce mineral in Northern NY and shipped it to that plant for processing, and sales in Europe. Nice country everyone there was very friendly.

Just curious - because I have yet to pull an engine, but how does a nylon strap passed through the cylinder gap work?

The number three plug hole is the perfect balance point for pulling or installing a T engine. A strap between cylinders two and three would be too far forward.
Erik

Bill, I don't know about your 1919, but taking the engine out of my 1915 I found it best to unplug the body and block it up a couple of inches. Pulled the steering column back and laid it on the seat, and the engine/transmission slid out with no major problems.


Body lifter.


Hook it under the firewall and lift.


Body blocked up.


No spark plug holes with the head off. Bolts through the chain into head bolt holes instead.

Steve, another good idea - I have to make one of those.

I lifted my engine with an old safetybelt going through the throttle rod hole between #2 & #3 cylinders. Worked fine. When I wanted to move the point of lift relative to the center of mass I moved the belt around one of the manifold studs.

I ran a chain between the cylinders. I'm sure the spark plug hole method is fine but, I felt a little uneasy about it considering the foolproof alternative.

Steve, Thanks for your helpful idea and pics on blocking the body before pulling the engine. I don't have to do that this time as I have completely removed the body and am stripping the car to the frame. When it goes back together it will have the restored 1919 body shown in photo.

I see that I am not the only one. Having had a couple spark plugs blow out of running engines, I cannot bring myself to want to trust a single plug-hole to maybe me being under the engine when it breaks away.
I have several things I rarely use. What I usually do, is tie up a "rope sling" using three or four full loops, individually tied, and spaced to balance the engine how I anticipate to need it. I use good, 3/8 polypropylene rope. One loop would support a model T engine. But I wouldn't trust it that way. Two loops would be plenty. But I usually have to work alone, and believe in setting up to work SAFE! As I often tell others to do on this forum.
So please do.
Drive (and work) carefully, and enjoy, W2

William, I like your KJ - a little history about it please. I have a Deluxe :-)

Tom, I am not sure what you mean by KJ
Bill

I don't care how carefully you lift the engine, I would never - ever - get underneath an engine supported only by a chain or rope. I treat an engine on any kind of hoist as if it were going to fall 1/2 second from now.

Steve, ifn you loosen the pedal adjustments right off so that the pedals fall back you don't need as much clearance that way.

Ken are you saying to remove the nuts and springs etc. inside the hogs head?

Having the pedals not standing up would certainly make it easier for me.

Fred, been a while since I pulled an engine so I don't remember ifn one has to remove the nuts and springs or just loosen them off a whole bunch. You'll find out once you start backing the adjustment off.